Drag bar swap

[meadeam]

The stock bar has some mounting holes for the switch gear. I did not know this was the case, and neglected to do much research before taking the old bar off.



My plan is to use a punch to mark the location, and drill the holes. I don't have a drill press so I will have to do it by hand with the bar clamped down under wood blocks. Does anyone see a problem with that? Seems pretty straightforward but I always get a little nervous hacking or drilling important things like handlebars.

There are also indentations near each end of the bar. What are those for? They don't seem to have a purpose, but they are a matched pair so I feel like they need to be there for something.

 

[DeepBarney]

As long as you can get them mirrored I'd say go for it. If you can, you might try clamping the bars one in front of the other with the holes at 12 o'clock, then match the angle with the new bars to (or rotated so they're at the angle you want), then drill the holes at 12 matching the old bars.

Or just grind the peg down.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Since they are aftermarket bars, the indentations could be for any anything. No problem drilling a hole in the bar, just use a punch prior to drilling.

 

[meadeam]

Or just grind the peg down.

I considered this, but besides functioning as hole for the locating pin, I think they must be necessary to properly secure the controls. The clamp isn't very robust. Granted, you aren't putting a lot of torque on the switches, but on the throttle side there isn't much else keeping the grip on the bar.

I ordered new weighted bar plugs. Wish I'd done that prior to taking everything apart, but they should be here this week. As usual, in hindsight I would have spent the extra money for the OEM FZ1 bar that comes with the locating holes and threaded inserts for the stock bar ends. Someday I will learn. The drag bar has a little less sweep than I would like as well. I wanted the extra reach as I am long in the torso, but I would like to have kept the same grip angle. A clubman bar is probably what I really want, but I don't like the look on the FZ.

 

[trepetti]

When I switched to an FZ1 bar (years ago) I got rid of the locating pins and after 15k miles can tell you from first-hand experiance that the controls never moved.

 

[MattR302]

Remove the pins. They’re really only there so the assembly technicians can consistently mount the controls. Add a wrap of electrical tape around the bar in the clamping area and it will help prevent the controls from spinning. Removing the pins will also allow you to fine-tune the position of them.

 

[DeepBarney]

Yeah, none of my other bikes have had locator pins. I've jammed levers into the dirt hard enough bend/brake them and the control mounts barely twisted on the bar if at all. If they feel loose or you're worried they'll move, a wrap of hockey stick tape will take care of it.

 

[meadeam]

I did drill the holes, but I don't like the location of the grips so I will try without them. The stock bar ends effect the position of the grips, and I didn't take that into account when I measured for the holes. I got them spot on, but the distance from the end of the bar should have included part of the bar end as on the stock bar, so now my grips overhang the end of the bar if I use the locating holes.

Not being able to leave well enough alone, I decided to swap out the headlight as well. I am using SpeedMotoCo brackets as recommended by @Gary in NJ. Installing them was an ordeal, having to hang my bike from the ceiling to drop the fork tubes. But I like them and the LED turn signals I have fit nicely.



I'm pretty certain I need to modify the gauge cluster bracket and remove the plastic cowl on the back of the cluster in order for things to fit properly. I'd actually like to change to different gauges, but I'll have to research and think about that for awhile. I'll get it back to rideable for the weekend in the meantime. If anybody has used aftermarket gauges, or modified the cowl on the stock set, let me know what you found to work.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Unfortunately the instrument cluster is also part of the ECU. Replacing the cluster would limit or remove your ability to communicate with the ECU for error codes and the like.

The S2 instrument cluster is usually the most desirable because it looks better with the analog tach and digital Speedo.

BTW, good choice on the brackets. They are pricey...and it shows.

 

[meadeam]

Unfortunately the instrument cluster is also part of the ECU. Replacing the cluster would limit or remove your ability to communicate with the ECU for error codes and the like.

The S2 instrument cluster is usually the most desirable because it looks better with the analog tach and digital Speedo.

BTW, good choice on the brackets. They are pricey...and it shows.

Yeah, the thing I was struggling with is the "idiot lights" on the dash. I know they provide important info. It's a good dash actually, and if I replaced it I would wan to keep all of the functionality. I will mount it without the cowl and think about making something to protect the back from the elements a little better. The headlight bucket will provide some deflection.

 

[Gary in NJ]

I am using SpeedMotoCo brackets as recommended by @Gary in NJ. Installing them was an ordeal, having to hang my bike from the ceiling to drop the fork tubes.

It didn’t occur to you to simply remove the upper triple clamp?

 

[meadeam]

It didn’t occur to you to simply remove the upper triple clamp?

It did and maybe I should have, but I thought it would be pretty easy to suspend the bike as well. It was interesting, but definitely more work. I will not do it that way next time.

 

[Andz]

When I switched to an FZ1 bar (years ago) I got rid of the locating pins and after 15k miles can tell you from first-hand experiance that the controls never moved.

agreed, when I took the hand guards off my Tracer and fitted Rizoma grips and MT-09 bar end weights everything moved outwards slightly, I filed the pins off and put everything back, no problems since.

 

[meadeam]

When I switched to an FZ1 bar (years ago) I got rid of the locating pins and after 15k miles can tell you from first-hand experiance that the controls never moved.

This has not been the case for me. I ground off the throttle side pin so I could move the grip inboard enough to install a barend mirror, and the clamp absolutely does not hold the controls in place. No amount of torque short of stripping the threads or breaking the plastic will secure it. I wrapped the bar in a single layer of tape which helped, but I only had electircal tape on hand. It is too "squishy" to get a good bite on. I will find some cloth tape and try again. Meanwhile I will see if I can find a new part and start over with an OEM FZ1 bar. I think I can keep it rideable, but it isn't ideal. This has become one of those projects I regret doing!

 

[brizzo]

This has not been the case for me. I ground off the throttle side pin so I could move the grip inboard enough to install a barend mirror, and the clamp absolutely does not hold the controls in place. No amount of torque short of stripping the threads or breaking the plastic will secure it. I wrapped the bar in a single layer of tape which helped, but I only had electircal tape on hand. It is too "squishy" to get a good bite on. I will find some cloth tape and try again. Meanwhile I will see if I can find a new part and start over with an OEM FZ1 bar. I think I can keep it rideable, but it isn't ideal. This has become one of those projects I regret doing!

I used this tape. Problem solved. I almost regret doing this project. But now everything is OK. Give it a try. There are many ways to solve it. It is a simple issue to deal with.