Brackson
Touring Member
In this case all the barrel connectors stay in the stock location, under the side cover, there is no exposition to the elements and no need to solder anything.
PS: in your previous post you mention the need to cut the wires to get the signals off, there is no need to cut anything, the stock connection are made via plastic connectors, just unclip them, take them off, feed them through the new FE, clip them back on.
Same goes for the plate light.
I don't think that is how it was on mine, but I am not positive. I had to extend my wiring anyways since the factory wiring was not long enough to move the signals backwards. My memory of it was that there was no connector visible from where I was sitting (head on rear tire). And that the wires went up into the tail light area and directly into the turn signal housing with no connectors at all. I will double check this tomorrow if no one beats me to it.
Also, there absolutely is exposure to the elements. The wiring is on the underside of a fender. A fender's purpose in life is to reduce spray off the tire. So if you ever ride in the rain even once that wire will basically be sprayed by a hose the entire ride. You may not even intentionally ride in the rain, but you will almost certainly be caught in it at least occasionally. Personally I always assume the bike will see the worst normal conditions possible and I try and prepare for them.
Now everyone keep calm here. Ther are frustrations with information and individual skill levels, remember we all joined this forum to ask for and offer help when we could . Im mechanically minded my son is not so i help when he asks. And his knowledge is getting better when he sees how things work but trying to follow notes from SIMILAR installs or from those of us that could do something with a blindfold on and have bucketloads of experience is sure to be confusing.
By his own admission our new member doesnt have lots of previous experience, lets all be patient as he gains it
End of my pep talk!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now it would appear to work beautifully thx TT and Dennis
I never meant that I expected him to be able to rebuild his engine in 1 day with no prior experience, but more meant that he is making this more difficult for himself than it needs to be. I think its more a psychic issue, getting in his own head. A deep breath and a little experimentation and it is easy to do. When I was learning to disassemble cars I often felt like I was going to break things and I would say so, at which point my boss would laugh and say " use your man hands" and proceed to pull with an alarming amount of force. The plastics and rubbers used to build cars and motorcycles are (for the most part) very strong and very forgiving. There are exceptions, but this is not one of them.
When I white knighted you it was in regards to his comment that felt very whiny, and unappreciative. That was the only frustration I had. In a situation like this where people like are taking the time to not only explain how to solve the problem, but find simillar instruction manuals and take photos of your bike, draw lines on them to increase clarity, post them to the internet and then link them to your forum post, I really feel that people should be showing alot of gratitude, and at the very least being quite polite.
Kingwu has since clarified his intent, so I am not directing this towards him any longer. More just talking helper/helpee etiquette in general.
As for Townsends's suggestion that the hole is the wrong size, he may well be correct. I just looked over all the pictures again and none of them clearly show the mounting location, but if it is not the tear drop then he is definitely correct.
This may be a great opportunity to go to LED turn signals or better yet integrated tail light/turn signals. Personally I have been eyeing a sexy one that does sequential turn signal lighting.