Fender Eliminator [help]

Kingwu

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I'm trying to install my new FE that I got off eBay.
2u8l63t.jpg


I got my fender off so all I needed to do was to remove all the wiring. I'm on the left turn signal; taken off the yellow cover, removed the nut inside. And i'm stuck. I am clueless to what to do next, the little black wiring from inside the turn signal WILL NOT BUDGE. So after 10-15 minutes of trying to take it out without breaking it I put it all back together. Now I am stuck. :spank:


So, how did you guys do it? I have an 07 Yamaha FZ6. Also where would I connect the new FE license plate light once I get it on(if I can get it on:confused:)?

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::spank:
 

erburtt

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If you take off the left side pod you should see where the stock turn signals connect into the wiring harness, they each have a little plug. Just unplug it there and take the turn signal off then route the wires through your fender eliminator and back to where you unplugged them.

And for the license plate light, I'd recommend tapping into the running light wire in your brake light assembly, can't remember off the top of my head which color it is, but this is accessed by taking the seat off and reaching up into the backside of the brake light.
 

Kingwu

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If you take off the left side pod you should see where the stock turn signals connect into the wiring harness, they each have a little plug. Just unplug it there and take the turn signal off then route the wires through your fender eliminator and back to where you unplugged them.

And for the license plate light, I'd recommend tapping into the running light wire in your brake light assembly, can't remember off the top of my head which color it is, but this is accessed by taking the seat off and reaching up into the backside of the brake light.

I was looking for something to pull off. There was a little black thing holding everything still. I didn't wanna just rip it out. I didn't want to break it. ****. Is there a post on this website that you know of?

And for the light would I have to do some splicing?
 

agf

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I think you'll find that the rubber stalk of the turn signal (blue arrows)actually locks onto a metal plate that is on the iside of the light mount bracket. Its almost a tongue(red arrow) and groove sort of mating. I know this doesnt decribe it well enough, but if yo play arond with it you'll see what I mean

you can kind of peel the rubber back and the plate will come off.
just remeber how you pullit aprt so ewhen you put it back together you don't forget which bit you feed in first, not a drama just a bummer when you forget the order
 

Kingwu

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I think you'll find that the rubber stalk of the turn signal (blue arrows)actually locks onto a metal plate that is on the iside of the light mount bracket. Its almost a tongue(red arrow) and groove sort of mating. I know this doesnt decribe it well enough, but if yo play arond with it you'll see what I mean

you can kind of peel the rubber back and the plate will come off.
just remeber how you pullit aprt so ewhen you put it back together you don't forget which bit you feed in first, not a drama just a bummer when you forget the order

I took one of those off and un-did the little nut inside of it so I can move the turn signal. But there was another thing clinging onto the turn signal that I couldn't get off. :confused:
 

dschult2

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If it's this fender eliminator I don't think you can use your stock lights with it.

Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Fender Eliminator 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black 2T s NL | eBay

You will have to get LED's. Then you can either splice into your existing wiring or get this connector to plug into you harness.

Yamaha OEM Turn Signal Connectors, 3-Wire (pair) – Custom LED

They would plug into your harness behind the fendors that are beneath your seat. The license plate light would just splice into your existing license plate light wire. I'm not sure but on mine I believe it was a little grey wire.
 
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Brackson

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Short of making a video or driving to Boston we can't show you any better than agf did. You need to get in there under the bracket and play around with it. It should be very obvious. Personally I had mine off in less than 15 seconds with no prior knowledge. It is made of a hard plastic and a durable rubber so you do not need to be overly gentle with it. You will need to cut the wires to get the turn signal completely off. I would suggest soldering them back together after feeding the wires through the new mounting hole.

And a side note, instead of complaining to agf and others who try and help you, you might want to try showing appreciation. People get tired of a cold welcome quickly.

Good luck man.
 

Carlos840

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Short of making a video or driving to Boston we can't show you any better than agf did. You need to get in there under the bracket and play around with it. It should be very obvious. Personally I had mine off in less than 15 seconds with no prior knowledge. It is made of a hard plastic and a durable rubber so you do not need to be overly gentle with it. You will need to cut the wires to get the turn signal completely off. I would suggest soldering them back together after feeding the wires through the new mounting hole.

And a side note, instead of complaining to agf and others who try and help you, you might want to try showing appreciation. People get tired of a cold welcome quickly.

Good luck man.

+1

The signals are just held together by plastic clips, i don't think there is a bolt or anything to remove to get them off.

All the connections including the plate light are hidden under the left side plastic cover. Nothing to splice.

This is really not rocket science, just put it back together the way you took it off.
 

Kingwu

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If it's this fender eliminator I don't think you can use your stock lights with it.

Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Fender Eliminator 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black 2T s NL | eBay
You will have to get LED's. Then you can either splice into your existing wiring or get this connector to plug into you harness.

Yamaha OEM Turn Signal Connectors, 3-Wire (pair) – Custom LED

They would plug into your harness behind the fendors that are beneath your seat. The license plate light would just splice into your existing license plate light wire. I'm not sure but on mine I believe it was a little grey wire.

I got this one - Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Fender Eliminator Tail Tidy 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black PLNL | eBay

Short of making a video or driving to Boston we can't show you any better than agf did. You need to get in there under the bracket and play around with it. It should be very obvious. Personally I had mine off in less than 15 seconds with no prior knowledge. It is made of a hard plastic and a durable rubber so you do not need to be overly gentle with it. You will need to cut the wires to get the turn signal completely off. I would suggest soldering them back together after feeding the wires through the new mounting hole.

And a side note, instead of complaining to agf and others who try and help you, you might want to try showing appreciation. People get tired of a cold welcome quickly.

Good luck man.
So I will definitely need to cut my wires?

And as for your comment I ain't complaining i'm telling him what I did and couldn't do and what the thing is telling me to do rather than HOW to do it. Agf has helped me before, I would be nothing more than grateful he's helping again.

+1

The signals are just held together by plastic clips, i don't think there is a bolt or anything to remove to get them off.

All the connections including the plate light are hidden under the left side plastic cover. Nothing to splice.

This is really not rocket science, just put it back together the way you took it off.

The FE came with a license plate light. He said I can mount my stock turn-signals on. As for the plate light, it comes at the end with a red and black wiring.
 

pookamatic

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According to the seller:

---------------------
YAMAHA FZ6 FZ-6 TAIL TIDY FENDER ELIMINATOR
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

COMES WITH:
BRACKET AND PLATE LIGHT (TO KEEP YOU LEGAL)
the plate light is in the middle of the bracket in the picture.

IF YOU WANT THE TURN SIGNALS THEY ARE ON MY OTHER AUCTIONS. YOU CAN USE YOUR STOCK TURNSIGNALS OR BUY YOUR OWN KIND OF LEDS THAT YOU WANT.
SHIPPING IS FREE WORLD WIDE
"LIFE TIME WARRANTY"
---------------------

Doesn't say it's plug and play with stock signals, only that you 'can' use them... Looking at the pic, it appears to have the oblong lobes to accept the rubber signal connectors. Can't be sure.

As for doing the work, yes, it is likely you will have to cut/splice something, but you should be able to figure it out. Electrical tape will get the job done, but solder & heat shrink is recommended.
 

Kingwu

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According to the seller:

---------------------
YAMAHA FZ6 FZ-6 TAIL TIDY FENDER ELIMINATOR
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

COMES WITH:
BRACKET AND PLATE LIGHT (TO KEEP YOU LEGAL)
the plate light is in the middle of the bracket in the picture.

IF YOU WANT THE TURN SIGNALS THEY ARE ON MY OTHER AUCTIONS. YOU CAN USE YOUR STOCK TURNSIGNALS OR BUY YOUR OWN KIND OF LEDS THAT YOU WANT.
SHIPPING IS FREE WORLD WIDE
"LIFE TIME WARRANTY"
---------------------

Doesn't say it's plug and play with stock signals, only that you 'can' use them... Looking at the pic, it appears to have the oblong lobes to accept the rubber signal connectors. Can't be sure.

As for doing the work, yes, it is likely you will have to cut/splice something, but you should be able to figure it out. Electrical tape will get the job done, but solder & heat shrink is recommended.

Damn, I see now. Slick guy.. Ahhh how long do you think it would take?
 

Carlos840

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I got this one - Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 Fender Eliminator Tail Tidy 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Black PLNL | eBay


So I will definitely need to cut my wires?

And as for your comment I ain't complaining i'm telling him what I did and couldn't do and what the thing is telling me to do rather than HOW to do it. Agf has helped me before, I would be nothing more than grateful he's helping again.



The FE came with a license plate light. He said I can mount my stock turn-signals on. As for the plate light, it comes at the end with a red and black wiring.

Are you even reading what people are answering or the information of the things you buy?

I mean, how hard can it be?

Look at the way the signals attach to the stock holder, remove them, if the holes are the same oval shape as the FE you bought, re mount them the opposite way you took them off.
If the holes are just a small round hole then the FE you have is designed for after market signals, which you will have to buy, or figure out a way to adapt them.

There is NO splicing needed, all the connectors are under the left side cover, remove it and you will have access to it all, it is all connected via crimped bullet connectors, just unplug the stock plate light, add connectors to your new light, connect it where the stock light was. Done.

All you need are two hands and a screwdriver and you can do all this in 20 minutes.
 

Kingwu

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Are you even reading what people are answering or the information of the things you buy?
I mean, how hard can it be?

Look at the way the signals attach to the stock holder, remove them, if the holes are the same oval shape as the FE you bought, re mount them the opposite way you took them off.
If the holes are just a small round hole then the FE you have is designed for after market signals, which you will have to buy, or figure out a way to adapt them.

There is NO splicing needed, all the connectors are under the left side cover, remove it and you will have access to it all, it is all connected via crimped bullet connectors, just unplug the stock plate light, add connectors to your new light, connect it where the stock light was. Done.

All you need are two hands and a screwdriver and you can do all this in 20 minutes.

Clearly I am but everyone is saying different ****. If you're so annoyed by my post why the **** you even bother replying?

Clearly I never worked on a bike before or I wouldn't even be postin **** on here askin for help.
 

Brackson

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Are you even reading what people are answering or the information of the things you buy?

I mean, how hard can it be?

Look at the way the signals attach to the stock holder, remove them, if the holes are the same oval shape as the FE you bought, re mount them the opposite way you took them off.
If the holes are just a small round hole then the FE you have is designed for after market signals, which you will have to buy, or figure out a way to adapt them.

There is NO splicing needed, all the connectors are under the left side cover, remove it and you will have access to it all, it is all connected via crimped bullet connectors, just unplug the stock plate light, add connectors to your new light, connect it where the stock light was. Done.

All you need are two hands and a screwdriver and you can do all this in 20 minutes.

I agree that it should be very easy and a quick task. I recently installed Shad hard luggage mounts on my bike and it required moving the turn signals backwards to be able to fit the luggage. This picture shows the solder/heat shrink job I did for it.

d6jt3hR.jpg


While yet barrel connectors (also known as butt connectors) will work they will also be exposed to the elements and will corrode. That is why you should only use solder connections on anything outside of a vehicle. I use barrel connectors and crimp caps all the time inside cars, but never outside cars, and never on a motorcycle, especially not something directly above the rear wheel.

In this picture you can see how far back the turn signals moved and some of the bracket they are attached to.

vtT2JkL.jpg
 

agf

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Now everyone keep calm here. Ther are frustrations with information and individual skill levels, remember we all joined this forum to ask for and offer help when we could . Im mechanically minded my son is not so i help when he asks. And his knowledge is getting better when he sees how things work but trying to follow notes from SIMILAR installs or from those of us that could do something with a blindfold on and have bucketloads of experience is sure to be confusing.
By his own admission our new member doesnt have lots of previous experience, lets all be patient as he gains it

End of my pep talk!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now it would appear to work beautifully thx TT and Dennis
 

Carlos840

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While yet barrel connectors (also known as butt connectors) will work they will also be exposed to the elements and will corrode. That is why you should only use solder connections on anything outside of a vehicle. I use barrel connectors and crimp caps all the time inside cars, but never outside cars, and never on a motorcycle, especially not something directly above the rear wheel.

In this case all the barrel connectors stay in the stock location, under the side cover, there is no exposition to the elements and no need to solder anything.

PS: in your previous post you mention the need to cut the wires to get the signals off, there is no need to cut anything, the stock connection are made via plastic connectors, just unclip them, take them off, feed them through the new FE, clip them back on.

Same goes for the plate light.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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You don't need to remove the lens at all, nor the nut inside the lens.

Inside the fender, you'll see a tear shaped retainer. That's what actually holds the directional stalk on.

As noted above, simply pry that off (its not brittle) and you'd be hard pressed to break it.

To my knowledge, the stock stalks (you just removed) won't fit the FI as it sits.

Unless you file, open up the hole, or cut up part of your old fender and bolt it to the NEW FI so the stock stalks fit back in.

Modification is just that, modifying!:thumbup:
 

dschult2

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That is the same FE kit that I have and I found it easier to switch to LED's than try to modify my stock lights(plus they look better). You can get the connector that I posted earlier and plug that into the wiring harness that is behind the rear fendor/sideplate (there are two of them, one for each light) but you will still need to splice your new light into the new connector with butt connectors. Then all I did was use electrical tape and wrapped the whole thing with the plastic wire tubing that is used in your cars wiring harness and ziptied it under the fender for a nice clean look. I haven't had any issues with moisture but to be honest I never ride in the rain. Not to confuse you further but if you do switch to LED's you will need to get a new relay to keep your blink rate the same. This is an easy plug and play switch though with the stock relay. The stock relay is located behind your front left fender. Hope we explained it well enough and good luck whatever way you go. Remember just take your time and think it through how you want to do it. It's really not a hard job.:thumbup:

LF1-S-FLAT Universal Motorcycle Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

And if your confused as to what wire splices to what just remember black to black and then the remaining two wires together even if the colors don't quite match.
 
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