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FZ6 bar replacement with FZ1 bars

njoytheride

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Hey guys,

I've been trying to resolve an issue but so far i've had no luck. According to a thread about replacing the FZ6 bars for FZ1 bars, there's one step that i have a hiccup on.

How to: FZ6 Bar Conversion w/ grip heaters - PNW Riders

When putting on the right side control pod (ignition), the little 'pin' that goes into the bars wouldn't fit, i would've had to drill into the bars. According to RedKat's instructions, it seemed to have worked without the pin so i removed it. When the control pod was installed, i discovered that it was moving around freely and using the throttle basically moved the whole installation around the bars - which is obviously very unsafe. I was recommended to use electrical tape on the bars to keep the 'pod' from moving around but i find it's too slippery and if i layer on then i cant properly attach the pod to the bars.

Does anyone have any suggestions in this case? Yes, i've looked into buying the little piece that holds the 'pin' in the control pod but i have to buy the whole thing which costs $100-ish + having to drill in the bars.

.. Heck, if anyone has a spare one lying around, all i need is the little piece itself, i'll even pay for shipping.

Thanks for reading,

~ Jonathan
 
Not electrical tape. Friction tape is what you need.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/3M-3407NA-Friction-0-708-Inch-240-Inch/dp/B001AXF416/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395369829&sr=8-1&keywords=friction+tape]3M 3407NA Friction Tape, 0.708-Inch x 240-Inch - Amazon.com[/ame]
 
Are both screws and the Allen head screw tight? I've done this mod and ground off the pin...no issues. I didn't use tape either.
 
Weird.. I too did this mod and my controls never moved. As suggested though, friction tape should sort this out.
 
When I did this, mine moved. I used electrical tape. A couple turns at the end closest to the pod, and that did the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When I did this, mine moved. I used electrical tape. A couple turns at the end closest to the pod, and that did the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's awesome! I've been trying to do it on the other side of the pod.

I'll give it a try. Thanks mate!
 
No problems. I should have clarified the inside end of the pod. But be sure to not use too much tape as you may put too much stress on the plastic once you tighten it down. I'm sure it wouldn't take much to crack that puppy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Didn't have this issue with my Renthal bars either. +1 on friction tape and a gentle hand with the screwdriver. As much sun as those things get, they're bound to be brittle.
 
You could FILE one side of the clamp, thus when tight, its clamps on that bar size. Its inside the facing so you won't see it. Safer/better than tape IMO!
 
Other way around, the bar is smaller than the clamp - filing it would make it move sind even more.

Say what? File the FLAT LANDINGS that butt together. They are what touches before the interior (inner perimeter 360°) contact and lock the clamp in place.

If in doubt, separate the clamp and add some tape between where the bolt clamps (it will render the clamp ineffective). << Just like bars with less paint than the OEM bars (smaller Outside Diameter).

FWIW: the difference from bar to bar is simply the thickness of the paint in most cases. Thus filing the flat down on one side of the clamp should be less than 0.015" (0.4 mm).

Make sense?
 
Say what? File the FLAT LANDINGS that butt together. They are what touches before the interior (inner perimeter 360°) contact and lock the clamp in place.

If in doubt, separate the clamp and add some tape between where the bolt clamps (it will render the clamp ineffective). << Just like bars with less paint than the OEM bars (smaller Outside Diameter).

FWIW: the difference from bar to bar is simply the thickness of the paint in most cases. Thus filing the flat down on one side of the clamp should be less than 0.015" (0.4 mm).

Make sense?

Thanks. That makes a lot more sense. Much obliged.
 
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