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Slow reaction to the open trottle

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I have 2007 FZ6 with 16k miles. Recently I have realized that I do not have any more the sharp/crisp bike reaction to the throttle opening (RPM are below 5K).The initial acceleration is slow but after a while the bike acceleration improves. However this do not occur while RPM are high. I suspect some spark plug issues. Please help.
 
I have 2007 FZ6 with 16k miles. Recently I have realized that I do not have any more the sharp/crisp bike reaction to the throttle opening (RPM are below 5K).The initial acceleration is slow but after a while the bike acceleration improves. However this do not occur while RPM are high. I suspect some spark plug issues. Please help.

Below 5k you really shouldnt have much power so what you are describing sounds pretty normal to me but maybe im not understanding exactly what your asking

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I don't think its a spark plug issue maybe let the bike warm up before taking it out? That's the only time it does it to me.
 
Sounds like a possible small vacuum leak. Make sure all of the plugs for the throttle body sync tubes are in place.
Another possibility: Does this happen when the motor is hot or cold? Have you ever changed the engine coolant? The cold start circuit uses engine coolant to move from fast idle/rich to normal idle/lean once up to temp. If the collant is fouled this valve may not operate consistently.

Just some thoughts...
 
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I have 2007 FZ6 with 16k miles. Recently I have realized that I do not have any more the sharp/crisp bike reaction to the throttle opening (RPM are below 5K).The initial acceleration is slow but after a while the bike acceleration improves. However this do not occur while RPM are high. I suspect some spark plug issues. Please help.

I have a similar problem 2008 FZ6 with 3800 miles. I have always attributed my problem to the bike needing to warm up but that lead me to the question of how warm is warm. Normally I let the bike idle until the temp gauge reads actual numbers and then start riding. Recently I have noticed that even when the pike is up to 130 to 140 degrees when I go from idle onto the throttle the bike gurgles and sometimes will quit running. Do you guys think this might actually be a problem or does everyone experience something like this?
 
Im sorry but what are yall doing? Putting around in 5th or 6th going 30mph

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I have the same issue. Havent got my valve check done so i thought maybe that was it. Cali Rider listed some good possible causes too. I think i'll look into those.
 
Have you done any basic maintenance to the bike recently? Air cleaner, chain (freely moving), throttle free play/sync adjustment? You could check the plugs (if you haven't already done so), but it doesn't sound like that is your issue...
 
no, my problem is in first gear either from a stop or idle speeds when pulling out of a driveway or something.

Got ya, in that case your problem sounds totally different from the ops, yours sounds like a fuel issue to me. With so few miles i really cant imagine too much that would cause it to bog down and stall out like that. What is your idle set at? And i 2nd Canadians question, done anything recently to ur bike maintenance wise?

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
I have 2007 FZ6 with 16k miles. Recently I have realized that I do not have any more the sharp/crisp bike reaction to the throttle opening (RPM are below 5K).The initial acceleration is slow but after a while the bike acceleration improves. However this do not occur while RPM are high. I suspect some spark plug issues. Please help.



Here's your problem- bike makes no power at low rpm. Keep it over 7k if you want better throttle response.
6287647352_ec3c8b2f29_b.jpg
 
OK - so lets get a base line; 3 bikes seem sluggish off the line.
Lets weed out the obvious; bike is above 150F (66C), you take off in 1st gear at 1500 to 1700 and accel to 4000RPM.

If you do so quickly it stumbles, misses, won't accelerate, backfires, bawgs, baulks, stalls???? Would those decribe how these bikes run?

I've mentioned this before, but not all FUEL is created equally. Switch brands and if you're using the lowest octane mix, bump up a grade and tell us what it does. Fuel that is slow to burn (for what ever reason) can easily cause all of the above issues off idle at low RPM under load.

The fuel will seem fine at upper RPMs but it fails to deliver expected performance at low RPM. It happens.

Look at this eye strain chart below I made using live data and crappy gas from the OBDII port on my auto. This engine can easily pull 42degrees of ignition advance. Notice the red line and the blue line? The blue line is the engines calculated load based upon TPS, RPM, air speed through the MAFS etc... The Red is the IGN advance which is roughly 22 deg until it shifts into second whereby it goes into Ignition Retard pulling the advance negative killing the engines performance. This is from crap gas. On a different day from the same station, from the "same" octane pump the car runs fine. Yes, this is at 6000RPM but the same effects were happening at low RPM while pulling hills. It would hesitate, and feel sluggish so I'd open the throttle more and nothing changed. All I had to do was switch gas and it fixed itself.

Give it some thought before putting a bunch of effort into the above problems. Also - which of you run Highest octane pump gas?

2010-07-062598669secLdvsIgnAdv.jpg
 
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I don't have to deal with too many weather issue here in Florida. But if you're using 20W50 and it's barely braking in the 40's outside, let your bike warm up! Water temps is the least of your worry. Oil temps is what you want to get up there.

Not sure where you're at with your maintenance. Sound like you're due for a air filter change/clean Might not be a bad thing to check the plugs while you're there... I have about 15K on mine and I have to re-gap them... I will be changing them on my next tune up.
 
Here's your problem- bike makes no power at low rpm. Keep it over 7k if you want better throttle response.
6287647352_ec3c8b2f29_b.jpg

I'm waiting on 2 timing gears... to finish up my FZ6 cams swap on my 6R. Nice to see those numbers... I'm at 75 WHP with my exhaust and PCV as of right now. Another +10 might be pushing it... :rolleyes: LOL
 
I put premium fuel in my bike, 91 octane. I do it because that is the only fuel at the pump that contains no ethanol.

That's good. So has it ever ran properly in your opinion? If so, how long ago?
Have you tried a different fuel supplier?

Beyond that all the PM stuff should be done to get a base line (others suggested earlier) - plugs, air filter, etc. because its nearing the cold season some fuel treatment to pull the moisture out isn't a bad idea either.
 
That's good. So has it ever ran properly in your opinion? If so, how long ago?
Have you tried a different fuel supplier?

I got the bike in the middle of September with 2700 miles and it has done it for as long as I have owned it. It is 14 miles away from 4000 miles and will be going in soon for 4000 mile service/winterizing for storage. anything specifically I should have them look at?

As for fuel supplier I am stuck :( I live in La Crosse which is the corporate HQ for Kwik Trip so that is pretty much all we have around here.
 
I got the bike in the middle of September with 2700 miles and it has done it for as long as I have owned it. It is 14 miles away from 4000 miles and will be going in soon for 4000 mile service/winterizing for storage. anything specifically I should have them look at?

As for fuel supplier I am stuck :( I live in La Crosse which is the corporate HQ for Kwik Trip so that is pretty much all we have around here.

Have you ever pulled the airbox and looked for strange things like mice, nuts, dog food, twine, cotton and other cool things critters pack in? Obviously some of this would hurt the top end more than the bottom. But until you look you just don't know.

As for the fuel, have any additives ever been put in/tried?

Have you pulled down the service manual and read through the trouble shooting tips in the back? There is a good deal of ideas and things to think about. Do a search for Bonemans and Service Manual. As for the techs in the shop, if it goes in maybe have them do a driveability assessment.

My 08 is smooth as silk from cold start/hot start at 1200 to 12000rpms whether its 45F or 95F outside. It likes cold damp hi humidity days and runs like a champ.

Anyway you can post a video with the tach and you riding it? Or even audio only? Just thinking out loud.
 
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