lazerfazer
Junior Member
clutch lube and aftermarket adjustable levers, and a PCIII/5 will cure the 1st gear problem
just learn to shift w/o engaging the clutch...
just learn to shift w/o engaging the clutch...
Last edited:
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Fixing two most basic problems...possible? (Clutch lever and 1st gear)
- Thread starter HappyHighwayman
- Start date
GGSteelman
Junior Member
If I went back to Yamalube after using Amsoil, Repsol, and Honda HP4 for the last few years, my clutch would feel way worse. If anything, go to a higher performance full synthetic. That makes a world of difference.
foxbass
I prefer being on top
I'm with ebster on the issue. :thumbup:
I'm into my second FZ this one's the S2 '08. Same exact problem as on the '05.
I learned to ride with the bike rather than fight it. That said I had a good play with the throttle/clutch relationship and my findings went like this:
I have adjusted the throttle play to be about half the recommended - leaving minimal slack. This has the effect of encouraging me to smoothly squeeze the the power on as I found more play allowed a lot of travel before engine pick-up which would be more sudden as the wrist is already moving to take up the slack - result? - jerky ride.
The clutch lever was adjusted until the lever pulls around 30mm back on slack cable. I have very average hands with a good strong grip but I prefer a short throw movement at the lever. It also minimises the effort plus I pretty much never use the clutch to shift after 1st to 2nd. I'll bang down 6 - 4 - 2 on the clutch also reducing fatigue. That said I often fall back on the lever as I ride in city rush hour a lot. Filtering through 3 packed lanes of crawling cages needs good control. (and mirrors folded)
I reckon I ought to get an adjustable lever but for the time being this set-up works fine for me.
It cured my hang-up with the bite point especially with herself on the back and proper hill starts. (I live in a very hilly part of London).
While I'm here I would also say that I think the clutch narrow bite issue is possibly more to do with the R6 sports pedigree. I've noticed the bike behaves very differently when you give it a big handfull right through the gears.
I don't mean red-lining, but just more aggressive take-off taking the engine up to around 8 thou +. It actually gives a much smoother riding action with the clutch seeming to behave more like my bro's 1200 Bandit ridden normally.
Now I'm not advocating we all get out there and hoon about like boy racers, but, hey, you know what they say - ride around the problem! Nice
I only discovered this 'dark side' of the Fazer by chance when I decided to lose the nutter in the BMW cage who was pestering my tail. I was quite surprised at how quickly god moved the scenery backwards for me, even 2 up! :Flip: (Either that or the bloke completely stopped!)
I'm into my second FZ this one's the S2 '08. Same exact problem as on the '05.
I learned to ride with the bike rather than fight it. That said I had a good play with the throttle/clutch relationship and my findings went like this:
I have adjusted the throttle play to be about half the recommended - leaving minimal slack. This has the effect of encouraging me to smoothly squeeze the the power on as I found more play allowed a lot of travel before engine pick-up which would be more sudden as the wrist is already moving to take up the slack - result? - jerky ride.
The clutch lever was adjusted until the lever pulls around 30mm back on slack cable. I have very average hands with a good strong grip but I prefer a short throw movement at the lever. It also minimises the effort plus I pretty much never use the clutch to shift after 1st to 2nd. I'll bang down 6 - 4 - 2 on the clutch also reducing fatigue. That said I often fall back on the lever as I ride in city rush hour a lot. Filtering through 3 packed lanes of crawling cages needs good control. (and mirrors folded)
I reckon I ought to get an adjustable lever but for the time being this set-up works fine for me.
It cured my hang-up with the bite point especially with herself on the back and proper hill starts. (I live in a very hilly part of London).
While I'm here I would also say that I think the clutch narrow bite issue is possibly more to do with the R6 sports pedigree. I've noticed the bike behaves very differently when you give it a big handfull right through the gears.
I don't mean red-lining, but just more aggressive take-off taking the engine up to around 8 thou +. It actually gives a much smoother riding action with the clutch seeming to behave more like my bro's 1200 Bandit ridden normally.
Now I'm not advocating we all get out there and hoon about like boy racers, but, hey, you know what they say - ride around the problem! Nice
I only discovered this 'dark side' of the Fazer by chance when I decided to lose the nutter in the BMW cage who was pestering my tail. I was quite surprised at how quickly god moved the scenery backwards for me, even 2 up! :Flip: (Either that or the bloke completely stopped!)
I've always thought those were a waste of money but if they make the clutch more modulatable (a word?) I'm gonna give it a shot. Thanks!
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GGSteelman
Junior Member
Absolutely NOT a waste of money. Better for your engine, gears feel better going through them (especially downshifting), clutch feels better, and you change your oil at longer intervals. It's a win win win win.
Check the oil threads for more info.
Check the oil threads for more info.
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
+1 lubing adjusting the cable
for issue one you can do two things: take the slack out of the throttle (if there is excess) and make better use of the rear brake.
Dropping a tooth up front wouldn't hurt...if you were thinking about doing it anyway.
for issue one you can do two things: take the slack out of the throttle (if there is excess) and make better use of the rear brake.
Dropping a tooth up front wouldn't hurt...if you were thinking about doing it anyway.
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