Assessing Brake Pad Wear

[Nelly]

Hi Guys,
I have read the manual in looking at break wear limit (pads). Im not sure if im looking in the right place. Is it just the groves in the pads? my rear brake pads are getting low.
Any advice greatly appriciated.

Nelly

 

[wrightme43]

I just replace things before they need it. Like when your tires are almost worn out, go ahead and replace them early, brakes do it early. Out of the life of the pad you may waste 3 or 4 dollars, or pounds or euros. Its just safer and easier that way, and I never ride around thinking are these tires going to ok, or are my brakes in tip top condition.

Also since this a motorcycle. Remove and replace the brake fluid at the same time. The stuff in the resivoir will look great, the stuff down in the pistons will look like crap. Its just something that needs to be done at least every two years. Again though sooner is better. I try to look at it like airplane maintence. It cant fail. The consequences are just to high.

 

[Nelly]

I just replace things before they need it. Like when your tires are almost worn out, go ahead and replace them early, brakes do it early. Out of the life of the pad you may waste 3 or 4 dollars, or pounds or euros. Its just safer and easier that way, and I never ride around thinking are these tires going to ok, or are my brakes in tip top condition.

Also since this a motorcycle. Remove and replace the brake fluid at the same time. The stuff in the resivoir will look great, the stuff down in the pistons will look like crap. Its just something that needs to be done at least every two years. Again though sooner is better. I try to look at it like airplane maintence. It cant fail. The consequences are just to high.

Hey Steve, I am all for that. Not only does it increase safety but it also reduces the rotor wear for a bit longer. Its just I am not sure if I am looking in the right place to access the wear. Is ther a mark on the caliper itself? or just the pads surface?
I am also (money permitting going to go for goodridge hoses).

Nelly

 

[grommit]

I just replace things before they need it. Like when your tires are almost worn out, go ahead and replace them early, brakes do it early. Out of the life of the pad you may waste 3 or 4 dollars, or pounds or euros. Its just safer and easier that way, and I never ride around thinking are these tires going to ok, or are my brakes in tip top condition.

Also since this a motorcycle. Remove and replace the brake fluid at the same time. The stuff in the resivoir will look great, the stuff down in the pistons will look like crap. Its just something that needs to be done at least every two years. Again though sooner is better. I try to look at it like airplane maintence. It cant fail. The consequences are just to high.

That is very good advice. :thumbup:

I can feel the lack of grip in the wet on the car when the tyres are getting worn down even before they meet their legal requirements. No idea about the bike have never got that far.

 

[wrightme43]

You measure the pad thickness from the backing plate of the pad set.

 

[wrightme43]

Oh and the rear stainless braided lines are not needed. Having them somewhat squishy helps keep it from locking. Or at least that is what wiser heads than mine told me.

 

[wrightme43]

http://moodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk/moodledata_shared/CDX%20eTextbook/dswmedia/cdxtoolbar/samples/chkbrakepads_WS.pdf

Its a car and its for students but it applies.

 

[reiobard]

That is a great analysis...


I also think that there is a groove up the center of our pads that it like a "Wear bar" that you could use. I may be wrong though as i haven't taken them off of this bike, but the last one had it.


Yes? No?

 

[wrightme43]

It really more of cut to prevent the pad material from breaking. At least that is how it was explained to me.

 

[DefyInertia]

I've got a barely used set of EBC HH brake pads for the 2004-2006 FZ6 if anyone is interested.

Oh and the rear stainless braided lines are not needed. Having them somewhat squishy helps keep it from locking. Or at least that is what wiser heads than mine told me.

I'll take all the feel I can get, thank you very much Squishy brakes should still be able to lock...you'll just have less warning when you're at or near that point.

 

[Nelly]

I've got a barely used set of EBC HH brake pads for the 2004-2006 FZ6 if anyone is interested.



I'll take all the feel I can get, thank you very much Squishy brakes should still be able to lock...you'll just have less warning when you're at or near that point.

How do you assess your wear defy? I assume you get through a few sets with your track riding?

 

[Nelly]

That is a great analysis...


I also think that there is a groove up the center of our pads that it like a "Wear bar" that you could use. I may be wrong though as i haven't taken them off of this bike, but the last one had it.


Yes? No?

Thats what I was looking at mate to.

 

[Nelly]

Oh and the rear stainless braided lines are not needed. Having them somewhat squishy helps keep it from locking. Or at least that is what wiser heads than mine told me.

Sorry Steve should have been a bit clearer. I am going to do front hoses first. Hellgate has adual trixy setup. Its more thatn I need though.

 

[Nelly]

You measure the pad thickness from the backing plate of the pad set.

How many MM should it be Steve?

 

[Cali rider]

The groove in the pad material is the maximum wear indicator, see attached image. However, I agree with the other posts, change them before you get that far.

Ideally, you should resurface the rotors with aluminum oxide cloth (80 grit for me), drain all of the old fluid, inspect the master cylinder and calipers (rebuild as needed) and refill/bleed with new brake fluid.

 

[reiobard]

cool, thats what i thought, you don;t want to get that low. but you can tell by the bottom of that notch how close you are getting.

 

[wrightme43]

The groove in the pad material is the maximum wear indicator, see attached image. However, I agree with the other posts, change them before you get that far.

Ideally, you should resurface the rotors with aluminum oxide cloth (80 grit for me), drain all of the old fluid, inspect the master cylinder and calipers (rebuild as needed) and refill/bleed with new brake fluid.

Well cool, I learn something new all the time.

 

[craig007]

so I'm a little fuzzy on this too. If I can see the groove, that means I have not reached the wear limit...right? I would estimate the groove depth of 0.1-0.2 mm. Is it time to replace the pads?

 

[wrightme43]

so I'm a little fuzzy on this too. If I can see the groove, that means I have not reached the wear limit...right? I would estimate the groove depth of 0.1-0.2 mm. Is it time to replace the pads?

Yes most assuredly.
The pads need to be able to take huge amounts of heat, the less material there is, the less heat they can absorb.

 

[reiobard]

so I'm a little fuzzy on this too. If I can see the groove, that means I have not reached the wear limit...right? I would estimate the groove depth of 0.1-0.2 mm. Is it time to replace the pads?

yes, the groove is the MAXIMUM, and you never want to run anything to the maximum, so i would replace it well before i get to that point.