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Bi-Xenon projector with angel eye installed

I have bin working on this mod the past two day's.

Yesterday i disassembled everything. And today i painted the reflectors and installed the projectors.

The glass is back on again and i'm now looking at the wiring that i need to do. That will be the biggest task in this mod. To keep everything nice and clean.

I cant wait to see the end result. I'm gonna wire the halo's to the POD's.

And i will make a on off switch for the lowbeam. So i can run halo's only for day driving.
 
Anyone have the issue, of blowing the headlight fuse after running with the high beam switch for 2min or longer? Something strange that just started.
 
I haven't started the mod yet...

I hurried up and ordered the headlights before I started my new job, but I've been so busy working and commuting 150 miles each day, that I haven't done the mod yet. Did I mention that our house is also for sale and we're moving? Not much time to work on the bike....

Oh, and I only commuted on the 2004 FZ6 to my new job once, and it was horrible. The trip is about 70% high speed highway and my FZ6 (with Puig DB) buffeted my helmet so badly that my forehead hurt when I got home. :(

I doubt I'll be doing much highway riding until I figure out how to solve the horrible windshield airflow on my FZ6. The stock windshield was bad, the tall yamaha shield had weird buffeting, and the Puig isn't really any better than stock, but it does look nice.
 
I really like the look of this ... I really want to try this on my 2009 FZ6..

Where would I get the running lights that are built into the headlights like the original poster had ?

Thanks
 
I really like the look of this ... I really want to try this on my 2009 FZ6..

Agreed. It's actually afforable to do this mod now that the HID projector prices have come way down.

Where would I get the running lights that are built into the headlights like the original poster had ?

I assume you're speaking of the "pod" lights which are located in the corners of the headlight housing. I used the R1 sockets and installed them to function as running lights and blink alternately with the turn signals.

Is the attached picture what you're talking about?

If so, here a post on the other forum of how I wired mine up:
Pod LEDs + stock signals and no relay? - Sportbikes.net

It can also be found on my FZ6 web page from my signature.
 
Yea exactly what I was looking for ! Thanks!

What is the most common color for HD lights... 8000k with blue HALOS ? I am ordering mine today or tomorrow ...

So it is a must to remove the lens no matter what to install the projectors HALOS ?

This comes off easy with a little heat ? How do you re-glue ? Just re-heat ?

Thanks
 
Yea exactly what I was looking for ! Thanks!

Cool. Glad to help.

What is the most common color for HD lights... 8000k with blue HALOS ? I am ordering mine today or tomorrow ...

I went with the lowest color temperature that I could get at 4500k (which aren't at all yellow looking), for maximum light output. From what I read, the higher color temperatures are actually less effective in light projection, but if it's the look that you're going for, get the 8000k.

So it is a must to remove the lens no matter what to install the projectors HALOS ? This comes off easy with a little heat ? How do you re-glue ? Just re-heat ? Thanks


Yes, you have to remove the outer lens of the light. The only rear access to the lights is through the headlight sockets, and there's no way that the projectors are fitting through there!

I didn't do my install yet, but my projector kit came with a tube of chinese sealant that they said to use to seal it back up. I'm not sure what everyone else used.
 
Yea exactly what I was looking for ! Thanks!

What is the most common color for HD lights... 8000k with blue HALOS ? I am ordering mine today or tomorrow ...

So it is a must to remove the lens no matter what to install the projectors HALOS ?

This comes off easy with a little heat ? How do you re-glue ? Just re-heat ?

Thanks


Most common for Xenon is 6k and 8k. 8k is mostly after market or used by the some more expensive car brands like lexus.

6K is called Iron White. Is almost Pure white with a little bit blue but the blue cant be seen. 8K is a blue tint where 10k is really blue.

I dont like blue myself but i know there are a lot that do like a blue tint.

4K5 is a bit more yellow. Stock Halogen bulbs are 3k2-3k4 so its already much more white but not as close to pure white as the 6K.

Its true that a more yellow color it better for visibility on the road or for cutting trough fog. i think those are 3K or even less.

But the Xenon bulps have more lumen. 3500 vs 1500-1600 for a halogen. Thats also a "problem" because you can blind other road users more easel. So you have to make sure your lights are not to high. (when you have a passenger on the back they go up quite a bit)

So it all depends on what you want. In any case (when properly set up) you will see better then with the stock bulps) but you can improve it more to go for a lower color temp or go for the looks and get 8k.

I myself had 6K in my car and i like that so i ordered the same for my bike. But again you also see a lot of 8k. More then 8k is not common. (only in the tunning scene where they also have 20k and stuff (Violette, Red and green Xenon))

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Then about the lense. Yes you have to remove them to install them. But its not as hard as it seems.

I needed about 150c in the oven to get them off. 175 worked better. And i did it in two steps. Because it cools down quite fast. I did not apply new glue just heated everything up to 175c and pushed the covers back on again.

Even without heating them up the glue was very sticky and it was hard to get the covers off when i just put them on there without any pressure. so i'm very confident its good like this and water tight.
 
Started the bi-xenon HID conversion

I had the rare opportunity to work on my FZ6 today, so I finally started my bi-xenon HID conversion. I removed the front fairing and headlight assembly, tossed it in the oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees, pulled off the lenses and installed the projectors.

Observations so far:
- I should have probably heated it up a little longer or hotter, as I really had to use some muscle to get the lenses off of the headlight housing.

- The kit I got is really nice. I love how small the ballasts are. The projectors are truly universal for different sized bulbs. They both came with the H4 adapters installed, but they threw in H7, H1, and 900x adapter rings too.

- I see a small hairline scratch on the outside of one of the lenses. I hope it's not noticeable in the beam when the light is on. I doubt it will be, but I'll find out, once I "test fire" the lights.

Questions so far:
- Inserting "stopper" washers on the inside of the housing to get the projector to not go too far into the reflector housings. I see mention to this, and I had to do it too. They kit came with the washer pieces to use for each bulb size, and I wrapped it with black electrical tape to keep them from scratching up the reflector housing that I'm not painting. Did you guys do the same type of thing? The larger washer on the H4 side makes that projector appear to stick a bit further out of the housing than on the H7 side. I suppose I could grind down the H4 side stopper washer to be smaller to alleviate this, since I have two of them and am only using one.

- Routing of the wires for the halo power and the high-low beam blocker. Since the originate on the reflector side of the housing, I have them stuffed through the little notch where the old bulb retention pin used to clip to. I really see no other way to run the wires, but I don't recall this being mentioned, or seeing pictures of those wires.

Anyways, I'm excited to finally get this mod started!

p.s.- Yesterday I added an auxiliary LED brake light strip to the back of my Yamaha tail rack. I had concerns about visibility of the stock brake light when being followed by a tall vehicle, so hopefully this will help out. The strip was only like $2 shipped from China, so it's a low buck mod. :)
 
Re: Started the bi-xenon HID conversion

I had the rare opportunity to work on my FZ6 today, so I finally started my bi-xenon HID conversion. I removed the front fairing and headlight assembly, tossed it in the oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees, pulled off the lenses and installed the projectors.

Observations so far:
- I should have probably heated it up a little longer or hotter, as I really had to use some muscle to get the lenses off of the headlight housing.

Well i dont know if that would have helped a lot. I got them of with 175c. Higher temp did help for me. But the lenses are plastic on a S2 so i did not want to heat them up to much.

- The kit I got is really nice. I love how small the ballasts are. The projectors are truly universal for different sized bulbs. They both came with the H4 adapters installed, but they threw in H7, H1, and 900x adapter rings too.

- I see a small hairline scratch on the outside of one of the lenses. I hope it's not noticeable in the beam when the light is on. I doubt it will be, but I'll find out, once I "test fire" the lights.

You wont see it in the beam its to small for that. I also have a little bit of dust in the lenses but you cant see that in the beam.

Questions so far:
- Inserting "stopper" washers on the inside of the housing to get the projector to not go too far into the reflector housings. I see mention to this, and I had to do it too. They kit came with the washer pieces to use for each bulb size, and I wrapped it with black electrical tape to keep them from scratching up the reflector housing that I'm not painting. Did you guys do the same type of thing? The larger washer on the H4 side makes that projector appear to stick a bit further out of the housing than on the H7 side. I suppose I could grind down the H4 side stopper washer to be smaller to alleviate this, since I have two of them and am only using one.

Ye i had this to. But i desired not to do anything about it. If you look really good you can see one is sticking out a bit more but from one/two meters away you cant see it.

- Routing of the wires for the halo power and the high-low beam blocker. Since the originate on the reflector side of the housing, I have them stuffed through the little notch where the old bulb retention pin used to clip to. I really see no other way to run the wires, but I don't recall this being mentioned, or seeing pictures of those wires.

Anyways, I'm excited to finally get this mod started!

p.s.- Yesterday I added an auxiliary LED brake light strip to the back of my Yamaha tail rack. I had concerns about visibility of the stock brake light when being followed by a tall vehicle, so hopefully this will help out. The strip was only like $2 shipped from China, so it's a low buck mod. :)

i dont know if i can find the right words for it since English is not my native language but i will do my best:

i saw the wires where quite sort and when installing the units i saw there was a opening (cutout) when the unit was installed. But if i routed the cables for the halo trough there they where really short. So i opened up the projector and put the wires from the halo's on the other side towards the opening (cutout) that you have on the back of the reflector. By doing that i had 1-2cm extra length.

I wired my halo's to the POD lights. Because i have made a switch for the low beam. So i can turn of the Lowbeam while driving. Halo's + pod lights are enough for daytime driving.
 
Re: Started the bi-xenon HID conversion

Well i dont know if that would have helped a lot. I got them of with 175c. Higher temp did help for me. But the lenses are plastic on a S2 so i did not want to heat them up to much.

Good data point. I didn't want to risk a higher temperature, but it probably would have been fine.

You wont see it in the beam its to small for that. I also have a little bit of dust in the lenses but you cant see that in the beam.

Good to know. It's a really light scratch, so I'm not too concerned.

Ye i had this to. But i desired not to do anything about it. If you look really good you can see one is sticking out a bit more but from one/two meters away you cant see it.

Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to do this. I think that I might grind down the washer to a smaller diameter, so it doesn't make the projector stick out as far.

i dont know if i can find the right words for it since English is not my native language but i will do my best:

i saw the wires where quite sort and when installing the units i saw there was a opening (cutout) when the unit was installed. But if i routed the cables for the halo trough there they where really short. So i opened up the projector and put the wires from the halo's on the other side towards the opening (cutout) that you have on the back of the reflector. By doing that i had 1-2cm extra length.

Thanks for the description. I guess my years of working with the Vanderlande guys from your country helps me, and I think that I understand. :) The wires currently look like they have to twist around the projector to get from the notch in the projector housing to the notch in the H4/H7 headlight hole. Sounds like you were able to re-route the wires inside of the projector to come out on the side of the projector closer to the notch in the headlight housing.

I'll take a look at it this week when I get some free time.
 
Did you get a set that allows you to use both H4 and H7? If so, where did you get it and for how much??

Yes, you can now get a set of bi-xenon projectors that work for both headlights. Both Asstenu and I got them on eBay from Kassabian9898.

Here's a link to his store:
Kassabian9898 Car China items - Get great deals on Xenon HID Projectors items on eBay Stores!

Here's a link to the lights that I bought:
H4 9003 Bi-xenon projector HID CONVERSION Kit Hi/Lo New - eBay (item 130343248669 end time Sep-05-10 01:16:14 PDT)

$145 shipped via FedEx international.

Email him before/after purchase, telling him that you need them to work with both a H4 and a H7 light. How it's done, is that both projectors are identical, and shipped with removable H4 "adapter rings". When you tell him in advance you need it to work with H7, he throws in an extra set of adapter rings for H7/H1 and 900x. (I forget which other ones were in the bag.)

Looks to be a very high quality kit, and I'm quite happy with it. The wiring harness is sweet and the ballasts are very slim and compact.
 
So, had a quick read of boneman's installation. I've been thinking to do this for a long time but didn't want to buy 2xh4 and 2xh7 kit.
But since you can now get kits from ebay: Kassabian9898, h4+h7 in the same kit, I think I'll go ahead and get a set.

Before that though, you don't have to cut any wires with these kits? Unless you wanna go dual light when riding?
And high-beam will work normally?

Thanks guys!
 
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So, had a quick read of boneman's installation. I've been thinking to do this for a long time but didn't want to buy 2xh4 and 2xh7 kit.
But since you can now get kits from ebay: Kassabian9898, h4+h7 in the same kit, I think I'll go ahead and get a set.

Before that though, you don't have to cut any wires with these kits? Unless you wanna go dual light when riding?
And high-beam will work normally?

I too didn't want the trouble of buying two kits and was glad that there is a new solution.

I'm not sure of your wiring question though.

There's a connector that plugs into the headlight's plug to get the activation power and the high-beam power, but you need to to connect the supplied positive wire to your battery and a ground wire too, for system power. There's also a wire that needs to be hooked up for your halos, but how you power them is up to you I believe. I want them to be constantly powered when the key is on, regardless of headlight power.

Both projectors feature both low and high beams. There is no additional bulb power for high beam, as selecting high beam simply fires a solenoid which physically flips back the beam guard, letting more light out of the top of the projector.
 
Thanks for the explanation, definitely cleared up a few things in my head.

I sent an email to the seller last night and asked him a few questions. Then he sent me the instruction manual and included a wiring diagram. So I thought I use the diagram to confirm the connections. Does it look right?
 
Thanks for the explanation, definitely cleared up a few things in my head.

I sent an email to the seller last night and asked him a few questions. Then he sent me the instruction manual and included a wiring diagram. So I thought I use the diagram to confirm the connections. Does it look right?

The connections do look correct and I'll try to explain.

- The two wires on the top center of the diagram are indeed just a positive wire that goes to the battery and a negative wire that goes to a good ground.

- The wire in the bottom right of the diagram plugs into the headlight harness, since it has the same plug shape as an H4 headlight bulb.

- The connection shown at the upper right of the diagram is for the "angel eye" halos and it different than how my wiring is. Specifically, on mine this is not part of the main harness, but are two separate, stand alone inverters that power the halos, and one would wire them up however one chooses. The inverters are small plastic boxes about 1"x1"x3" which have a positive and negative wire to hook up, and then a plug that attaches to the halo's plug.
 
Beam shutters

I had one of my projectors apart the other day, investigating how Astennu got some extra wire length. I was not able to comfortably re-route my wires internally without straining them, so I left them as is, but now have some questions about the beam shutters.

Specifically, I notice that both lights have the high-side of the beam shutter on the right side of the light. (The right side when looking from sitting on the bike with the lights mounted.) I realize that these shutters (basically a flat, thin piece of brass with the right side higher than the left) control the beam cutoff, but I'm not sure if I understand how they should be oriented on a motorcycle.

I was thinking that in the USA you'd want the higher side of the shutter to be on the left side of the headlight, to keep additional light from the lane of opposing traffic. Is there another reason for the higher side to be on the right, or does it not even matter? Or should one be on the left and the other on the right? I could probably swap them somehow....
 
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