Bi-Xenon projector with angel eye installed

[jackay]

Re: Beam shutters

I had one of my projectors apart the other day, investigating how Astennu got some extra wire length. I was not able to comfortably re-route my wires internally without straining them, so I left them as is, but now have some questions about the beam shutters.

Specifically, I notice that both lights have the high-side of the beam shutter on the right side of the light. (The right side when looking from sitting on the bike with the lights mounted.) I realize that these shutters (basically a flat, thin piece of brass with the right side higher than the left) control the beam cutoff, but I'm not sure if I understand how they should be oriented on a motorcycle.

I was thinking that in the USA you'd want the higher side of the shutter to be on the left side of the headlight, to keep additional light from the lane of opposing traffic. Is there another reason for the higher side to be on the right, or does it not even matter? Or should one be on the left and the other on the right? I could probably swap them somehow....

Over in the US, you would need the light to be higher on the right hand side. If you flip the shutters around, it will mean that you're projecting the light onto incoming traffic. Probably not desirable and may blind the incoming traffic.

On the other hand...was it easy to take the projector apart? I'm planning to get mine and change the shutters around, you reckon this is can be easily done?

 

[jackay]

The connections do look correct and I'll try to explain.

- The two wires on the top center of the diagram are indeed just a positive wire that goes to the battery and a negative wire that goes to a good ground.

- The wire in the bottom right of the diagram plugs into the headlight harness, since it has the same plug shape as an H4 headlight bulb.

- The connection shown at the upper right of the diagram is for the "angel eye" halos and it different than how my wiring is. Specifically, on mine this is not part of the main harness, but are two separate, stand alone inverters that power the halos, and one would wire them up however one chooses. The inverters are small plastic boxes about 1"x1"x3" which have a positive and negative wire to hook up, and then a plug that attaches to the halo's plug.

Thanks for helping out on these questions I got. I'm guess I'll be getting the same kit that you got, the wiring diagram in the instruction manual was probably generic.

So how did you connect the halo's power? As in...was there a connector you just plug into or did you splice the wire (or wire-tapped) into one of the actives wires like parking light, headlight pwr...etc?

 

[Astennu]

I had one of my projectors apart the other day, investigating how Astennu got some extra wire length. I was not able to comfortably re-route my wires internally without straining them, so I left them as is, but now have some questions about the beam shutters.

Specifically, I notice that both lights have the high-side of the beam shutter on the right side of the light. (The right side when looking from sitting on the bike with the lights mounted.) I realize that these shutters (basically a flat, thin piece of brass with the right side higher than the left) control the beam cutoff, but I'm not sure if I understand how they should be oriented on a motorcycle.

I was thinking that in the USA you'd want the higher side of the shutter to be on the left side of the headlight, to keep additional light from the lane of opposing traffic. Is there another reason for the higher side to be on the right, or does it not even matter? Or should one be on the left and the other on the right? I could probably swap them somehow....

1: The Wires. Yes they get strained a bit but that was that extra protection tube that was around them. I saw that as well. But i dont think thats gonna be a issue so i changed it.

2: The Light is right as it is for euro country's and the VS. England on the other hand needs them on the other side. The light beam of my bike now looks the same as the beam from my car's projectors.

Thanks for helping out on these questions I got. I'm guess I'll be getting the same kit that you got, the wiring diagram in the instruction manual was probably generic.

So how did you connect the halo's power? As in...was there a connector you just plug into or did you splice the wire (or wire-tapped) into one of the actives wires like parking light, headlight pwr...etc?

There are 4 screws on the back of the projector and then the frond end comes of. Then you can fiddle with the internals. I dont know how easy it will be to change the plate. Have not looked into that.

About the Halo's. You can wire them onto any 12v plug. They have intendant wires. But i wanted them on on the same time as the pod lights. So i did cut the wires. But there are other way's to get the same result.

But im not planning to sell this bike soon. And if i sell it i will sell it like it is now including the projectors.

You can also wire them with your Xenon Projectors but then you can only have them active at the same time.

I made a switch so i can disable the xenon projectors and only run the POD + halo's.

 

[jackay]

Cheers mate! Thanks for the help there Astennu and jrevans!
I'm feel alot more confident now after all these q&a. I'll order a set off the ebay now! !
And I'll definitely will be opening up the projector and try and swap the shutters around. This will probably help some of the RHD guys too.

 

[jrevans]

Specifically, I notice that both lights have the high-side of the beam shutter on the right side of the light. (The right side when looking from sitting on the bike with the lights mounted.) I realize that these shutters (basically a flat, thin piece of brass with the right side higher than the left) control the beam cutoff, but I'm not sure if I understand how they should be oriented on a motorcycle.

I was thinking that in the USA you'd want the higher side of the shutter to be on the left side of the headlight, to keep additional light from the lane of opposing traffic. Is there another reason for the higher side to be on the right, or does it not even matter? Or should one be on the left and the other on the right? I could probably swap them somehow....

2: The Light is right as it is for euro country's and the VS. England on the other hand needs them on the other side. The light beam of my bike now looks the same as the beam from my car's projectors.

Are you saying that the shutter being higher on the right hand side of the projector (as mine are) is correct for Right Hand Drive countries? Or should the shutter be lower on the right hand side (which I think would make the light higher on the right hand side of the road)?

Do I want more light shining towards oncoming traffic, or to the cars stuck in front of me?

 

[krid80]

Are you saying

​

that the shutter being higher on the right hand side of the projector (as mine are) is correct for Right Hand Drive countries? Or should the shutter be lower on the right hand side (which I think would make the light higher on the right hand side of the road)?

Do I want more light shining towards oncoming traffic, or to the cars stuck in front of me?

They are correct for here. You want the cut off to be lower on the left so you don't blind oncoming traffic and higher on the right so you can see critters in the ditches.

 

[jrevans]

They are correct for here. You want the cut off to be lower on the left so you don't blind oncoming traffic and higher on the right so you can see critters in the ditches.

Thanks Krid80.

I guess I'm thinking of the shutters upside down or something. I was thinking that the lower side let more light through, but you're saying that the lower side blocks more light. Interesting.

 

[jackay]

Thanks Krid80.

I guess I'm thinking of the shutters upside down or something. I was thinking that the lower side let more light through, but you're saying that the lower side blocks more light. Interesting.

Have a read of this, if you still in doubt:
HIDRetrofits | A High Performance HID Projector Retrofit Headlights Resource

Goto:
Cutoff Shields & Color Mod :thumbup:

 

[Astennu]

Cheers mate! Thanks for the help there Astennu and jrevans!
I'm feel alot more confident now after all these q&a. I'll order a set off the ebay now! !
And I'll definitely will be opening up the projector and try and swap the shutters around. This will probably help some of the RHD guys too.

NP i had the same doubts at first. It was a lot of work but in the end it was not that bad. And it looks nice

BTW Make sure you dont aim the lights to high. Especially when you have a second person riding with you. These lights are more then twice as bright: 35xx vs 15xx lumen.

They can really blind other drivers when aimed to high.

Are you saying that the shutter being higher on the right hand side of the projector (as mine are) is correct for Right Hand Drive countries? Or should the shutter be lower on the right hand side (which I think would make the light higher on the right hand side of the road)?

Do I want more light shining towards oncoming traffic, or to the cars stuck in front of me?

You can indeed interpreted this in two way's. So: A picture say's more then a 1000 words :

(From Boneman's FZ6 page)

This is what i have and what you want to have in Euro and VS. What i explained is viewed from the drivers position with the headlights installed in the bike.

There is a smaller shutter on the right side. Because of that the light is higher as you can see in the picture.

Best thing is to test it before installing. You should do this no matter what. Because if one light is not working properly you have to do all that work again. So i made sure before i started installing the Projectors everything was in perfect working order.

Boneman had them installed when he saw one unit was not working properly thats really a slap in the face after all that hard work. And in your case you can see if your light beam is like it should be.

 

[jackay]

So...I have put in an order with the seller.

He tells me that the kit that I wanted is not in stock (H4+H7), instead he has the 'universal kit (with multiple base plate)' available.

Should I take up his offer or wait for a bit? I don't mind waiting that much, just wanna ask what you guys reckon?

 

[jrevans]

So...I have put in an order with the seller.

He tells me that the kit that I wanted is not in stock (H4+H7), instead he has the 'universal kit (with multiple base plate)' available.

Should I take up his offer or wait for a bit? I don't mind waiting that much, just wanna ask what you guys reckon?

I believe that I actually got the "universal kit" from him, since my projectors came with removable headlight insert rings / base plates. They put the H4 rings on from the factory and put a small ziplock in the box containing the H7 (and a few others) sized headlight insert rings.

I would sure classify that as universal, but I could be wrong.

I'm not sure if Astennu got the same style or not, but it sounds like he did.

 

[Astennu]

I have the same. There is just a big spacer ring that is put inside the reflector. So that it fits on the H4 side. So no problem there.

 

[Astennu]

I have not checked it but i thought that the H4 end was a bit thicker but i dont know for sure anymore. 2x H7 with a spacer will fit.

But you also need the spacer for the back side of the lamp. Because (if i remember correctly) the H4 hole is bigger then the H7 hole.

The H4 bulps are quite a bit bigger then H7. So 2x H7 = no problem as long as ou get both spacers.

 

[OZXJR]

A little off topic but these things are incredibly strong .Both my projectors survived a full frontal with a roo ,broke the headlight housing in two ,but the projectors came through unscathed .The one that stayed on the bike was still lit after the impact !


EDIT: On closer inspection one of the halo's is damaged,but the projector is fine.

 

[jrevans]

Wiring woe

On Friday while the family was out for a few hours, I snuck into the garage and spent a little time wiring up the harness so I could check the headlight functionality.

I hooked up the main harness to the battery circuit, then connected the H4 connector to my factory headlight plug. I plugged in one HID ballast and projector for a test, and when I turned on the ignition key, I was surprised to have the light come on immediately.

Huh? I thought that the headlights didn't come on until the motorcycle was started....

I toggled the high-beam, but the projector didn't do anything. I then started the FZ6 and then the high-beam switch worked. I turned off the motorcycle, got out my multimeter and checked the voltage on the H4 connector. Sure enough, when I turn on the key, I get 12V across the green "dual headlight mod" wire and the black ground wire.

I don't recall seeing the one filament on with the key before, but I have to admit it's been a while since I checked. Any ideas?

I thought that I extended the correct wire in the harness when I did the dual high-beam mod. Is this a function of not having the other headlight bulb (H7) installed? I just had the harness draped across the front of the motorcycle, disconnected from the fairing. I first did the test without connecting the speedometer plugs, and then plugged them in for the next try, but it still behaved the same.

 

[krid80]

Re: Wiring woe

On Friday while the family was out for a few hours, I snuck into the garage and spent a little time wiring up the harness so I could check the headlight functionality.

I hooked up the main harness to the battery circuit, then connected the H4 connector to my factory headlight plug. I plugged in one HID ballast and projector for a test, and when I turned on the ignition key, I was surprised to have the light come on immediately.

Huh? I thought that the headlights didn't come on until the motorcycle was started....

I toggled the high-beam, but the projector didn't do anything. I then started the FZ6 and then the high-beam switch worked. I turned off the motorcycle, got out my multimeter and checked the voltage on the H4 connector. Sure enough, when I turn on the key, I get 12V across the green "dual headlight mod" wire and the black ground wire.

I don't recall seeing the one filament on with the key before, but I have to admit it's been a while since I checked. Any ideas?

I thought that I extended the correct wire in the harness when I did the dual high-beam mod. Is this a function of not having the other headlight bulb (H7) installed? I just had the harness draped across the front of the motorcycle, disconnected from the fairing. I first did the test without connecting the speedometer plugs, and then plugged them in for the next try, but it still behaved the same.

sorry, Jr, I dunno. mine doesn't behave that way.

 

[jrevans]

Re: Wiring woe

On Friday while the family was out for a few hours, I snuck into the garage and spent a little time wiring up the harness so I could check the headlight functionality.

I hooked up the main harness to the battery circuit, then connected the H4 connector to my factory headlight plug. I plugged in one HID ballast and projector for a test, and when I turned on the ignition key, I was surprised to have the light come on immediately.

Huh? I thought that the headlights didn't come on until the motorcycle was started....

I toggled the high-beam, but the projector didn't do anything. I then started the FZ6 and then the high-beam switch worked. I turned off the motorcycle, got out my multimeter and checked the voltage on the H4 connector. Sure enough, when I turn on the key, I get 12V across the green "dual headlight mod" wire and the black ground wire.

I don't recall seeing the one filament on with the key before, but I have to admit it's been a while since I checked. Any ideas?

I thought that I extended the correct wire in the harness when I did the dual high-beam mod. Is this a function of not having the other headlight bulb (H7) installed? I just had the harness draped across the front of the motorcycle, disconnected from the fairing. I first did the test without connecting the speedometer plugs, and then plugged them in for the next try, but it still behaved the same.

I think that I just saw my problem, at least I hope that I did. I just spent two minutes in the garage and looked at where I connected my dual high beam wire with weatheproof bullet connectors next to the factory harness. I took a look, unplugged it and then said hmmmm. Right next to that male connector, was another male weatherproof connector. Huh? Apparently when I added the wiring for my heated grips, I ran the key-on relay activation wire next to the harness, and used another male weatherproof bullet connector....

I'm guessing that I plugged my dual high beam headlight wire into the key-on power for my heated grips. I'll check it someday soon with the meter when I have more than two minutes to work on the bike, but that would explain what happened.

Time to label my wires I suppose.

 

[krid80]

Re: Wiring woe

i think that i just saw my problem, at least i hope that i did. I just spent two minutes in the garage and looked at where i connected my dual high beam wire with weatheproof bullet connectors next to the factory harness. I took a look, unplugged it and then said hmmmm. Right next to that male connector, was another male weatherproof connector. Huh? Apparently when i added the wiring for my heated grips, i ran the key-on relay activation wire next to the harness, and used another male weatherproof bullet connector....

I'm guessing that i plugged my dual high beam headlight wire into the key-on power for my heated grips. I'll check it someday soon with the meter when i have more than two minutes to work on the bike, but that would explain what happened.

Time to label my wires i suppose.

lol, jr, lol!

 

[jrevans]

Re: Wiring woe

lol, jr, lol!

On the bright side, I'm probably going to make a splitter off of that wire in order to power the angel eye halos, as well as the key-on power for my heated grips relay.

I'm beginning to see why some of you guys are running power distribution blocks on your bikes....

 

[jrevans]

Wiring complete

Wow, wait a pain in my butt.

I just finished wiring up the harness for my HID installation. My assumption about the headlight coming on with the ignition was correct, as I had plugged the headlight wire into the ignition wire for my heated grips relay. The wires are now labeled.

I thought I'd be fancy and make a ground point on the metal frame that the instrument panel and fairing bolts too. Silly me ASSumed that since that bracket is was bolted solidly to the frame, it would be a good ground, so I drilled a hole and installed a screw/nut to connect my ring terminals to. Well, turns out that it wasn't a good ground, and when I tried to test my lights, they wouldn't come on. I ended up running a ground wire from another point on the frame that was grounded, to my new ground point.

I shortened the harness that comes with the HID projectors. It was made for a car with a few extra feet of cable to run to the other side of the car, so I ended up cutting out about four feet of cable, neatly soldering splices in.

As usual, I soldered all of my connections, adding time, but ensuring a good, long-lasting connection. I've been using a pack of these 20 gauge, pre-wired connectors DealExtreme: $2.78 JST Cables (10-Pair) on my bike for low current connections. I used one pair when I added my aux LED brake light strip and I just used a pair for my angel eye power supplies. Super cheap, free shipping from china, just gotta be patient and wait the two weeks for them to arrive....

Now that I verified that the lights work, I need to pop the lenses back off (I just have them lightly on) and clean up the projector lenses, since I left a big greasy hand print on one of them. I am disappointed that the scratch on the one lens is quite visible when looking at the projector with the light on. Maybe I'll email the seller, but I really don't want to have to open up the lens assembly once I stick it back on for good.

I am really happy with my choice of 4500k color temperature. They are white as can be, but not too bluish.

Back to the garage to clean the projector lenses, install the fairings and mount the ballasts.