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Is it smart to apply grease to this cylinder before putting it back in??

they are made by galfer. i changed the way the washers are in and now with the caliper not attached (only the line in) it is squirting air with some minimal brake fluid but not pulling anything from the reservoir.

making little farty noises.
 
Why was I taking apart the calipers? What kind of a silly question is that? I'm Lone from SuperTech Auto. That's why.
 
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ok got it together and the cylinder started moving out but it looked lubed enough with brake fluid.

i cleaned it before i put it in so theres not any grease on it except for maybe a microscopic film from my fingers. but i wiped my hands and didnt really touch the side that goes in after i cleaned it. i cleaned it kind of thoroughly so that should be good.

btw the grease i had used was green not white.

rear brake is more or less sorted i think, now to bleed it. tho its not really moving nice and freely. bleeding it should make the rear brake operate more smoothly i hope.
 
OH WHAT THE MOTHER OF ALL THINGS FRALKSDILFHSDKLFHASDI;HAS;IODFH

i was screwing the bleeder screw back in proud it was working.......

and the god damn thing just ripped off. i wasnt even twisting it that hard.

what the helllllll

now there is no bleeder screw. half of it is in my hand the other half is sheared off in the bloody brake caliper.

what does that mean? is there any way to get it out or do i need to replace the caliper? god damn it.
 
lonesoldier84 said:
OH WHAT THE MOTHER OF ALL THINGS FRALKSDILFHSDKLFHASDI;HAS;IODFH

i was screwing the bleeder screw back in proud it was working.......

and the god damn thing just ripped off. i wasnt even twisting it that hard.

what the helllllll

now there is no bleeder screw. half of it is in my hand the other half is sheared off in the bloody brake caliper.

what does that mean? is there any way to get it out or do i need to replace the caliper? god damn it.
Click to expand...

wow.post some pics. are the threads stripped?

so when you thought your piston was stuck, was the whole system "closed"?
was there brake fluid in the system?
 
You should be able to stick an easy-out in it and take it out but since you prolly have the system filled with new fluid already, you might get the new bleeder so that you can swap them quickly without leaving the system open to absorb moisture....

Take a deep breath.....You're almost there !....:rof:
 
well since you're in PANIC mode right now... try sticking something in there that you can twist.
so, maybe an small allen wrench that is just big enough to fit and twist the remaining part out.
if you can't find something that you can hold onto (like if it's a straight up and down thing) try twisting the straight thing with a vise wrench.
 
or better yet take the caliper to a shop that deals with brakes.
preferably a yammie dealership.
if not that, go to some chain store auto mechanic like Midas or something.
be polite. show them your puppy dog eyes. if they turn you away, then ask if they know anywhere else you can go. hopefully you will talk to someone who rides and sympathizes.
 
ok you're probably in your garage right now, sobbing and mopping up brake fluid.
here's something i bookmarked a while back while researching speed bleeders:
New Page 2

they're describing how to remove a broken speed bleeder. it may apply in your case.

that's all i got. i feel bad for you.

Procedure for removing a broken Speed Bleeder

For those who would like to remove a broken Speed Bleeder themselves, I will explain the best way to remove the broken Speed Bleeder. Read these instructions over and over until you understand the procedure and feel comfortable tackling this job. If you still have questions or don't understand the steps you can call me or e-mail me for clarification.

Do not use an EZ-Out! I can't emphasize this enough! This tool is too brittle and hardened and nine times out of ten you will snap it off and loose any hope of removing the broken part. Before you can remove the broken part you will have to remove the spring and stainless steel ball. You cannot and will not drill through the hardened stainless steel ball. The spring can be removed by using a piece of wire or pick. The ball can be removed with a blast of air from an air compressor. If you still cannot remove the ball because of a burr at the area where the break occurred you can use a drill bit to clean up the burr. Then the blast of air should remove the ball. Next, drill a 1/4" deep hole in the Speed Bleeder with a 5/32" drill bit. A good quality cordless battery powered drill such as "Dewalt" works best for this step. It is easily maneuvered and has a built-in clutch to minimize drill breakage. Try not to go all the way through the bottom of the Speed Bleeder. Then take a 5/32" hex wrench (allen wrench) and tap it into the hole that you just drilled with a hammer. Use a quality hex wrench. A quality hex wrench will be hardened and tempered which makes it strong and ideal for the job. The corners of the 5/32" hex wrench will bite into the sides of the hole forming a hex socket. Then carefully turn out the broken part of the Speed Bleeder. If the wrench spins in the hole and will not remove the broken Speed Bleeder use the next larger size drill bit and corresponding hex wrench. This procedure is one way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder and works very well. Be patient and be careful when doing this procedure. I don't want to see anyone get hurt. Wear eye protection!

The latest way to remove a broken Speed Bleeder if the above procedure fails:

Usually the Speed Bleeder is broken off flush with the caliper. Take a common 3/8 x 16 nut and lay it centered over the broken Speed Bleeder. Then take a GMAW (gas metal arc welder) or wire feed welder and apply weld through the center of the 3/8 nut to weld the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Fill the nut flush with the top of the nut with weld and then let it cool. This essentially welds the nut to the broken Speed Bleeder. Take a 9/16" box wrench and turn the nut counter clockwise and remove the broken Speed Bleeder with a few turns. Before performing the weld process take some common clear packaging tape and cover the caliper with a few wraps of tape to protect the caliper from weld splatter. It works very well. After the Speed Bleeder is removed chase the threads with a clean tap of the correct thread size. Then use a razor blade and carefully remove the tape. The caliper is as good as new.
Click to expand...
 
Ok. First of all. @ Ant:

I am not as clueless as you would suggest. I am just an
amateur and lack COMPLETE knowledge.

And with respect to working on my bike, I have a choice:
either sacrifice quality of parts and get cheap parts and
have the dealer do all the work.

Or I can get higher quality parts, do it myself, then donate
money to the forum in appreciation for the money I saved
by getting such helpful advice as the other gentlemen here
have given me (I notice your input has been lacking, but I
am more than happy to entertain others as I can see how
this all would be entertaining to people just reading it for
the sake of reading it).

Why do I do it myself?

1) I have a fixed budget.

2) I really want the machine to function as well as it can,
and stock OEM parts (in the case of the brake lines) do not cut it.

3) $100 per hour for routine maintenance is not something
I can afford on a regular basis. Either I do it myself.....or
I do not ride.

4) I feel more connected to the machine and know everything
that is going on with it. Also, as the years tick by I want
to know how to work on the bike and troubleshoot things
myself. The time may come I am stranded in a remote
location with a broken bike, a repair kit and the knowledge
I've accumulated.

With things I REALLY think are beyond my scope
(new chain and sprockets, and new spark plugs) and
could result in serious damage I take to the dealer
and make financial sacrifices in other areas of my life.

I have researched the piss out of this before starting,
though my over-aggressive and impatient nature usually
results in the quality work SuperTech Auto puts out there.

So...........let's keep the negativity out of this, shall we?

-----------------------------------------

@ everyone else:

I can show my appreciation for your help in no other
way except to give my sincerest thanks and donate
to the forum when my projects are complete.

------------------------------------------

Update:

It currently looks like this:

DSC01503.jpg

Can I leave it overnight like this?

I washed the bike after deciding to call it a day and
start fresh tomorrow. Is that alright? Should I cover
it in something after blowing some compressed air at it?
The system seems sealed though as when I pump the
rear brake pedal it definitely has no give.
The pads lock on the rotor.

P.S. I'll probably take the caliper off and take it to a welding shop if I can.
 
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yeah it's fine. there might be some brake residue so maybe just wrap it. the water from the bike wash probably neutralized it. but still. wrap it in a bag. hey i'm paranoid. :Flash:

blowing compressed air in it to do what? dry it out? don't worry about that, when you bleed the brakes again you should flush all the water out.
assuming you keep this caliper.

I dont understand what you mean by all this:
The system seems sealed though as when I pump the
rear brake pedal it definitely has no give.
The pads lock on the rotor.
Click to expand...
the system is not sealed. but it doesn't matter now, you're going to get that broken bleeder out, get a new one, get that hose on and re-bleed, lock it down and seal it up again.

also, HOW OLD IS THIS FLUID??????

i think i see rust in the hole in that pic.
 
Not to be in opposition to OMG_WTF on the easy out issue.
I realize that it can even be more of an issue when there is a frozen bleeder. I believe because Lone had this bleeder already moving that it was because he overtightened it that it broke. If you use an easy-out close to the minor diameter of the hole, I believe you could back out the remaining bleeder. If we're talking about welding and about replacing the unit for $25 bucks I think it's worth a try.

It also looks like there was moisture (rust) in that area of the bleeder.
Although I agree with OMG_WTF on the down side of the easy-out. I've had a great amount of success with the easy-outs. Each job with them is pretty unique. But yes when you can't afford the result of a broken easy-out go the other route that OMG_WTF has given.
 
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Motogiro said:
Not to be in opposition to OMG_WTF on the easy out issue.
I realize that it can even be more of an issue when there is a frozen bleeder. I believe because Lone had this bleeder already moving that it was because he overtightened it that it broke. If you use an easy-out close to the minor diameter of the hole, I believe you could back out the remaining bleeder. If we're talking about welding and about replacing the unit for $25 bucks I think it's worth a try.

It also looks like there was moisture (rust) in that area of the bleeder.
Although I agree with OMG_WTF on the down side of the easy-out. I've had a great amount of success with the easy-outs. Each job with them is pretty unique. But yes when you can't afford the result of a broken easy-out got the other route that OMG_WTF has given.
Click to expand...

I'm not hatin' on EZ Outs.
I had a stuck bolt on my bike once, and I just hammered a flat head screwdriver into the broken, stuck bolt, got some vise grips on the screwdriver, and turned. Worked.

That's just how I roll.


Also, Lone, a new caliper is only $25 away, don't spaz.
 
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