Just Bought a 2006 FZ6. Need some help.

[ScubaSteve08]

So i got this new bike from Coyote Powersports about two months ago. First real street bike ever and I'm loving it. Only has 4,400 miles on it. So now i want to start doing stuff to it. I know i want to put on an aftermarket exhaust and that in turn means gettin a Power Commander too. But do i really need one? i'm already at a high altitude here in Denver so i know i'm running lean. And I've heard bits and pieces about changing the countersprocket to a 15? Anybody got any input? feel free to add.

 

[Norbert]

:welcome::welcome::welcome:

First mod should be frame sliders.
Replace all your fluids:
Motor oil
Brake fluid
Coolant.

Check your air filter.
You probably need a new battery.

This is from what I've read and my own experience.

:welcome::welcome::welcome:

 

[jazzpaintball]

.... nevermind

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: To the forum!


I have to agree with OMGWTF on fluids and service checks.

If you're just doing slip ons for exhaust then your computer will make the corrections needed and there is no need for a power commander unless you want to get a few more HP out of it. The OEM computer also adjusts for altitude.
The PC will when properly dyno'd will give your motor a better Air:Fuel ratio and of course, a few more horses, but will cost you an additional $300+ over the price of the PC, just to get a proper tune.

Happy riding! and again:welcome:

 

[jazzpaintball]

....nevermind....

 

[RJ2112]

Wait, sorry, but what??

"If you're just doing slip ons for exhaust then your computer will make the corrections needed and there is no need for a power commander..."??

I dont know what FZ6 you had, but the 2004-2006 computer does not make this change. If it did, people would not be trying to ground out certain wired in the US to get a hold of the CO circuitry that is not available to the US bikes. The computer does not adjust its richness when there is less pressure from a set of slipons. I know this from personal experience and i am sure there are others that can attribute to this.

Not trying to pick a fight here, just curious to how you substantiate that statement.

If the muffler is replaced with a lower restriction glass pack..... there is almost no change in back pressure as seen by the engine. This is due to the cat. That restriction will almost completely mask any changes you make further 'down stream'.

What difference the system does 'see' is also going to be in the intake side.... higher air flow. The ECU can adjust for altitude... this is the same effect as altered air flow, and it almost certainly in the capability of the ECU to compensate for.

The main reason some people get to fiddling around with the CO settings is so they can fiddle with their bikes more. Seat of the pants adjustments to mixture without a dyno (with sniffer) involved are at best a crap shoot. Butt dynos are much more about bragging rights than any actual measured performance gain.

 

[hot4teach]

Actually, at higher altitudes there is less oxygen. So that means you have more fuel to oxygen, which is richer not leaner.

 

[krid80]

Wait, sorry, but what??

"If you're just doing slip ons for exhaust then your computer will make the corrections needed and there is no need for a power commander..."??

I dont know what FZ6 you had, but the 2004-2006 computer does not make this change. If it did, people would not be trying to ground out certain wired in the US to get a hold of the CO circuitry that is not available to the US bikes. The computer does not adjust its richness when there is less pressure from a set of slipons. I know this from personal experience and i am sure there are others that can attribute to this.

Actually, my bike running a Leo Vince exhaust (no cat) and no power commander on stock CO settings was perfectly fine as far as A/F mixture. We proved that on a dyno.

The Yamaha fuel injection is a better design than similar Kaw or Suz versions (which use a fast idle setup - lower tech) and as such truly does not need tuned.

Yes, you will have popping from the exhaust on decel but that isn't harmful, just extra fuel out the tailpipe.

A power commander will give you more fine tuning, but it isn't necessary to prevent engine damage. The CO mode method is what Yamaha recommends because it adjust the built in map which will slightly adjust the mixture.

To sum up, no, a power commander is not necessary on a Yamaha FI bike. CO mode will tune it but even that isn't necessary. If you want to play with the tune, a PC will do anything you want but is overkill if you are only doing exhaust.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince.html

 

[jazzpaintball]

Well thank you guys, what i have been asking about for the last year here finally got answered. I didnt need a PCIII and my bike is messed up....

good to know....

 

[jtarkany]

:welcome: To the forum!


I have to agree with OMGWTF on fluids and service checks.

If you're just doing slip ons for exhaust then your computer will make the corrections needed and there is no need for a power commander unless you want to get a few more HP out of it. The OEM computer also adjusts for altitude.
The PC will when properly dyno'd will give your motor a better Air:Fuel ratio and of course, a few more horses, but will cost you an additional $300+ over the price of the PC, just to get a proper tune.

Happy riding! and again:welcome:

:welcome:

The 06' does not have an 02 sensor and will not compensate, the 02 sensor was added in 2007.

That being said, most of the aftermarket exhausts are designed to run fine without re-mapping, better with.

...and since jazzpaintball took grief on this I will substantiate
Diagram 1: 06 Exhaust no 02 sensor: Diagram 2: 07 with Exhaust 02 sensor (item #2):

Here is a pretty cool article on catalytic converters: http://www.importtuner.com/features/0610impp_catalytic_converter_removal/index.html

 

[krid80]

:welcome:

The 06' does not have an 02 sensor and will not compensate, the 02 sensor was added in 2007.

That being said, most of the aftermarket exhausts are designed to run fine without re-mapping, better with.

...and since jazzpaintball took grief on this I will substantiate
Diagram 1: 06 Exhaust no 02 sensor: Diagram 2: 07 with Exhaust 02 sensor (item #2):

Here is a pretty cool article on catalytic converters: Catalytic Converter Removal - Beat the Law - Import Tuner Magazine

Yamaha's official word on their FI is: "All the O2 sensor does is adjust at idle and at constant throttle. Other than that, the preset map is used." Our Yamaha Service rep presented a seminar on FI. He alluded to CO adjusting the starting point of their map in very small increments.

 

[Motogiro]

Interesting article! (Catalytic Converter Removal - Beat the Law - Import Tuner Magazine)

Thank you.

 

[b3nje909]

The more and more I read on aftermarket exhausts and remapping.

the more and more I believe that "dyno" tuning and all that is a complete wank.
And generally a little gimick so that bike "experts" can make a quick $1000 (aus) for about 3 hours work.

After all, in my understanding of it, a "dyno" run, just gives you a read out of your bikes rpm/torque/HP.

Heres one I found just then

Most dyno runs, should give you a similar result for that bike.
So that removes the need to do a costly dyno run, just to get two lines on a piece of paper.

The remapping part. is designed to remove the "dips" that manufactures put in, to pass DB noise levels..
the FZ6, has two. as seen in the graph above.
6000 rpm, and 9000rpm, anyone with an Fz6 will know this.

As for fitting your new exhaust, if its slip ons, and it starts. and you can ride it, your bike is working. there is no need to remap it.
Maybe, if your keen, and have truck loads of cash. the gain of a few xtra HP is worth it.
but I doubt anyone ever gets the full potential out of their bike. let alone 3 - 5 xtra Ponies.
Unless your some sort of freak racing guru, in which case, why are you reading this, and not lineing up on the MotoGP grid with Fiat as your major sponser.

Another arguement to back this up, is the O2 sensor.
your bike will not magically stop working if you go for a ride from sea level to the mountains. the O2 sensor will compensate for this.

From what i understand, the only time a remap is needed, is when you change both exhaust and air filter.

 

[Kazza]

I think most people just get a Dyno for the Before and After HP readings after putting new pipes etc.

I didn't bother so I don't know the extra HP I got. Doesn't matter to me either. Love my pipes anyway

 

[krid80]

The more and more I read on aftermarket exhausts and remapping.

the more and more I believe that "dyno" tuning and all that is a complete wank.
And generally a little gimick so that bike "experts" can make a quick $1000 (aus) for about 3 hours work.

After all, in my understanding of it, a "dyno" run, just gives you a read out of your bikes rpm/torque/HP.

Most dyno runs, should give you a similar result for that bike.
So that removes the need to do a costly dyno run, just to get two lines on a piece of paper.

The remapping part. is designed to remove the "dips" that manufactures put in, to pass DB noise levels..
the FZ6, has two. as seen in the graph above.
6000 rpm, and 9000rpm, anyone with an Fz6 will know this.

As for fitting your new exhaust, if its slip ons, and it starts. and you can ride it, your bike is working. there is no need to remap it.
Maybe, if your keen, and have truck loads of cash. the gain of a few xtra HP is worth it.
but I doubt anyone ever gets the full potential out of their bike. let alone 3 - 5 xtra Ponies.
Unless your some sort of freak racing guru, in which case, why are you reading this, and not lineing up on the MotoGP grid with Fiat as your major sponser.

Another arguement to back this up, is the O2 sensor.
your bike will not magically stop working if you go for a ride from sea level to the mountains. the O2 sensor will compensate for this.

From what i understand, the only time a remap is needed, is when you change both exhaust and air filter.

The O2 sensor only makes a difference at constant throttle and at idle. When you are accelerating or decelerating, the factory map is used.

Dynoing without adjusting anything is pretty much as you said... just to see power.

If you have a custom map created (or do CO adjustments) the byproduct of the power increase is a bike that just simply runs better. A bike that is tuned properly will pop and crackle alot less, will run cooler, and generally get better economy.

IF, however, a shop is trying to charge a grand for a dyno tune, that is highway robbery. We charge $50 for 3 straight hp runs, or $75 for a tune. It shouldn't take more than an hour *if that* to fully tune any bike.

 

[b3nje909]

IF, however, a shop is trying to charge a grand for a dyno tune, that is highway robbery. We charge $50 for 3 straight hp runs, or $75 for a tune. It shouldn't take more than an hour *if that* to fully tune any bike.

hey man, this is Australia.

We pay double or triple for almost everything.

 

[fzme]

I know i want to put on an aftermarket exhaust and that in turn means gettin a Power Commander too. But do i really need one?

If you are talking about a performance inprovement, No. Nor do you need and exhaust. I hate to sound like a scrooge, but for the price of a new exhaust and power commander, you could buy a used car (ok, a really crappy used car). The power gains are minimal on an already powerful bike that's never going to reach the limits of it's capablities on the street.

If you are talking about asthetics, yeah, some of the aftermarket exhaust look bada$$, so if you have the money, and it's worth it to you, go for it.

[/QUOTE]
And I've heard bits and pieces about changing the countersprocket to a 15? Anybody got any input? feel free to add. [/QUOTE]

This is the best bang-for-the-buck power mod. It's only $25. You'll feel like the bike has an extra 150cc.

Good luck. Oh, frame/fork/axel sliders should be 1st on your list...Ride safe!

 

[RJ2112]

The more and more I read on aftermarket exhausts and remapping.

the more and more I believe that "dyno" tuning and all that is a complete wank.
And generally a little gimick so that bike "experts" can make a quick $1000 (aus) for about 3 hours work.

After all, in my understanding of it, a "dyno" run, just gives you a read out of your bikes rpm/torque/HP.

Heres one I found just then

Most dyno runs, should give you a similar result for that bike.
So that removes the need to do a costly dyno run, just to get two lines on a piece of paper.

The remapping part. is designed to remove the "dips" that manufactures put in, to pass DB noise levels..
the FZ6, has two. as seen in the graph above.
6000 rpm, and 9000rpm, anyone with an Fz6 will know this.

As for fitting your new exhaust, if its slip ons, and it starts. and you can ride it, your bike is working. there is no need to remap it.
Maybe, if your keen, and have truck loads of cash. the gain of a few xtra HP is worth it.
but I doubt anyone ever gets the full potential out of their bike. let alone 3 - 5 xtra Ponies.
Unless your some sort of freak racing guru, in which case, why are you reading this, and not lineing up on the MotoGP grid with Fiat as your major sponser.

Another arguement to back this up, is the O2 sensor.
your bike will not magically stop working if you go for a ride from sea level to the mountains. the O2 sensor will compensate for this.

From what i understand, the only time a remap is needed, is when you change both exhaust and air filter.

Any idea what the difference between the gold and blue plots is supposed to be?