I got a problem

[zmeiaspas]

Thanks for all the awesome advice guys! Appreciated! I think I've decided I'll change the oil pan as I know I won't screw this up and also I won't have to buy a whole lot of tools to do the job.

Now I've got a few more questions:

1. I called parkway cycles in Boston and they said they could order me a new oil pan for $155 and it will take 3-5 days to get here. So what other parts will I need? I wanna make sure I order everything I need as not to delay the whole process any further.

2. Does anyone know a good tutorial / how-to for oil pan change? I searched the how-to section but the result page came out blank. Any tips or anything I should keep in mind?

3. Will I need a a rear/front stand to do the swap or is my kick stand enough?

Thanks and cheers!

 

[Less]

Doesn't your bike have a centerstand?

You might also call Performance Cycles in Shrewsbury to see if they have the pan in stock. They are probably even closer than Parkway.

I live in Ashland, just around the corner from you and have bought my last two bikes at Performance. always had good luck with their parts and service.

 

[Norbert]

Thanks for all the awesome advice guys! Appreciated! I think I've decided I'll change the oil pan as I know I won't screw this up and also I won't have to buy a whole lot of tools to do the job.

Now I've got a few more questions:

1. I called parkway cycles in Boston and they said they could order me a new oil pan for $155 and it will take 3-5 days to get here. So what other parts will I need? I wanna make sure I order everything I need as not to delay the whole process any further.

2. Does anyone know a good tutorial / how-to for oil pan change? I searched the how-to section but the result page came out blank. Any tips or anything I should keep in mind?

3. Will I need a a rear/front stand to do the swap or is my kick stand enough?

Thanks and cheers!

Is it part:
1B3-13417-00-00 COVER, STRAINER
??

I was curious about the dealership prices. I compared the price to stores online:

ronayers has it for $107.02
not sure what S&H is.

boats.net:
$110.72 + $12.95 S&H

Just throwing this out there....

 

[sxty8goats]

I just noticed you are in Framingham. I'm in Holbrook, about 45 min out. My bike is in Essex, a bit twisted from my highside last Sat. I can swing by durring the week after work if you have a place to work on it. I haven't looked into changing a oil pan or if it is even a pan and not a side cover. But I've been working on cars and building machinery for 20+ Years.

You will need a gasket kit for the pan/cover and basic tools. I wish my bike was here so I could look her over. But it is a bike, even if the engine has to come out, it isn't a huge job. A couple evenings at best.

As far as buying a bunch of tools to re-tap, The taps needed shouldn't run more than $12 ea. the most you would need is a pair. I don't know what sizes you need, I haven't looked them up but I may have them already.

 

[zmeiaspas]

Doesn't your bike have a centerstand?

You might also call Performance Cycles in Shrewsbury to see if they have the pan in stock. They are probably even closer than Parkway.

I live in Ashland, just around the corner from you and have bought my last two bikes at Performance. always had good luck with their parts and service.

Yes it does and I don't know why I thought it would block the oil pan

I just called them too and they said it would take about a week to order the oil pan + gasket kit for the total price of $157.

Is it part:
1B3-13417-00-00 COVER, STRAINER
??

I was curious about the dealership prices. I compared the price to stores online:

ronayers has it for $107.02
not sure what S&H is.

boats.net:
$110.72 + $12.95 S&H

Just throwing this out there....

Sorry for the dumb question but where can I check what part number do I need? I looked in both the owner and service manuals and I didn't see any part numbers. I then tried using this web site: Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts to get the part number but I couldn't find the oil pan anywhere on the list.

I just noticed you are in Framingham. I'm in Holbrook, about 45 min out. My bike is in Essex, a bit twisted from my highside last Sat. I can swing by durring the week after work if you have a place to work on it. I haven't looked into changing a oil pan or if it is even a pan and not a side cover. But I've been working on cars and building machinery for 20+ Years.

You will need a gasket kit for the pan/cover and basic tools. I wish my bike was here so I could look her over. But it is a bike, even if the engine has to come out, it isn't a huge job. A couple evenings at best.

As far as buying a bunch of tools to re-tap, The taps needed shouldn't run more than $12 ea. the most you would need is a pair. I don't know what sizes you need, I haven't looked them up but I may have them already.

Sorry to hear about your get off man.

I don't have a garage and that's a huge pain. I keep the bike in the backyard that's right next to a parking lot so I just get her out on the parking lot to work on her. I have a water proof cover for the bike so I plan on taking her apart outside and I'll put all the parts in trash bags so that they don't get wet if it rains. I'll also cover her belly with some more trash bags to make sure no mud/dirt gets in the engine if I don't complete everything in one day.

Ok now that I know I'll have to wait for a whole week and that I'll have to remove the oil pan no matter what, I'm willing to try re-tapping. If I screw up - I'll just order a new oil pan anyway. If I don't - I'll be done even quicker than if I order.

So the tools I'm gonna need are a drill, taps and some washers, right? How would I go about finding the tap size? What brand should I go for when buying taps?

And also would it be bad if I use the same gasket? I just called both parkway cycle and performance cycles and they both told me I'll have to order the gasket kit and it will take a week to get here.

 

[Norbert]

Ronayers.com Fiche Desktop Motorcycle Yamaha 2006 FZS6V FZ6 OIL CLEANER

i think it's #9. once you get the part number you can search all over.

 

[SirIsaac]

Sorry for the dumb question but where can I check what part number do I need? I looked in both the owner and service manuals and I didn't see any part numbers. I then tried using this web site: Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts to get the part number but I couldn't find the oil pan anywhere on the list.

Part Shark has it for $96.32. First drill down to the 2006 FZ6 listing. There is no listing for "OIL PAN", so I just looked at things that seemed close until I saw it in a picture. The oil pan is listed under "OIL CLEANER", diagram reference no. 9 called "COVER, STRAINER", part no. 1B3-13417-00-00.

 

[zmeiaspas]

Yeah I realized that after I saw OMG_WTF's link. I just didn't scroll down to see the whole pic on the previous web site and that's why I got confused

Anyways, I just ordered the bolt + washer + gasket from boats.net. Hopefully they will arrive here by Friday. I'll probably wait till Thursday (it's supposed to rain tomorrow and I have no garage) and I'll take her apart and see if I get any more issues. Hopefully I'll have all the tap tools needed by then.

Well I guess I have to look at it on the bright side: I won't be riding for at least 4-5 days but on the other hand I'll make a cool contribution to the "how-to" (or "how-not-to") section of the board

 

[sxty8goats]

Ronayers.com Fiche Desktop Motorcycle Yamaha 2006 FZS6V FZ6 OIL CLEANER

i think it's #9. once you get the part number you can search all over.

I was going to point him to the Ron Ayers site. I just ordered @ $600 worth of plastic and Handle bars from them. The charts can be found under the micro fiche section.

Looks like it is a straight shot into the oil pan from the back or side. The easiest way to figure out the size is to measure the bolt diameter and the distance between the threads. But I doubt you have a measuring tool accurate enough, most people don't have a set of verniers lying about. The second easiest way is to bring it to your local NAPA Auto Parts and ask them what size it is and what the next size up is. Looking at the pan diagram, I'd retap to the next largest size before I bought a pan. NAPA may well have the taps you need too. AutoZOne may have better prices but you can't beat NAPA for helpful / knowledgeable employees.

You need a new gasket if you are planing on pulling the pan. If the gasket doesn't' stick to both sides and tare, it 'might' be ok to reuse but it is possible that it will leak slow even if it looks good after it is off. It was already compressed and has done it's job. It needs to compress to fill in any small areas that may leak.

Let me know if you want help.

 

[alanrim]

Nobody mentions PTFE tape, cheap from your local DIY store, and ideal for sealing threads.

Only thing to make sure of is that the tape is only used 3/4 way up thread to make sure none gets in the sump.

Will be using it on my FZ when oil change due, I have used it on virtually every bike/car I have changed the oil on.

 

[04fizzer]

Too risky.

Don't cross-thread the bolt (thread it in by hand, then snug with a wrench), and replace the crush washer from time to time and you're good to go.

Nobody mentions PTFE tape, cheap from your local DIY store, and ideal for sealing threads.

Only thing to make sure of is that the tape is only used 3/4 way up thread to make sure none gets in the sump.

Will be using it on my FZ when oil change due, I have used it on virtually every bike/car I have changed the oil on.

 

[sxty8goats]

Nobody mentions PTFE tape, cheap from your local DIY store, and ideal for sealing threads.

Only thing to make sure of is that the tape is only used 3/4 way up thread to make sure none gets in the sump.

Will be using it on my FZ when oil change due, I have used it on virtually every bike/car I have changed the oil on.

That is because it isn't designed for straight thread sealing. PFTE and pastes are used on tapered threads to lubricate the threads as they engage and to fill small gaps that exist because of thread clearance angles. On a straight thread, especially a damaged straight thread, the tape is just pushed back and acts like a crush washer at best. There is also a good chance that bits of it will end up in your system and may plug small oil passages. PTFE tape on an engine is a bad thing. Crush washers and O-rings. PTFE Tape is not strong enough to replace worn threads.

 

[zmeiaspas]

Ok so I was just about to head to NAPA auto parts before they close, got the drain plug out and look what I got after I did that:

View attachment 20461

and this is what the thread looks like:

View attachment 20463

View attachment 20462

It has some thread left but it's definitely not all that much.

The cool thing is I am now able to put the bolt back in normally. The bad thing is I'm not sure if there are any of those metal coil things inside the oil pan.

So if you were in my shoes, would you proceed with the re-tapping / oil pan change or would you just flush the pan once or twice, put a new washer in and just put the drain plug back in?

 

[Fred]

So if you were in my shoes, would you proceed with the re-tapping / oil pan change or would you just flush the pan once or twice, put a new washer in and just put the drain plug back in?

You've gone from about ten turns of thread to two. There is simply no way that you'll be able to get the plug tightened adequately. If you try, you'll strip the remaining two turns of thread.

Heli-coil it, tap it oversize, or replace the pan.

If you're really on a budget, you can do a ghetto fix for now. Clean the bolt and pan of all oil by using brake cleaner. Then JB weld the old drain plug into place. Let it dry overnight, and then fill the bike with oil. Bingo, you now have 4000 miles of riding until your next oil change, which is more then enough time to save money for a new oil pan and drain plug.

Fred

 

[sxty8goats]

LOL on the Geto fix Fred. Workable but geesh.

There isn't enough thread to catch the bolt and keep it. Time to go up to the next size bolt or swap out the pan. Stop by NAPA and see what they have. They propably can set you up with an oversized bolt and the propper tap. Bring the bolt with you got sizing.

 

[zmeiaspas]

Ok thanks for all the help and patience everyone I'll get my ass to napa tomorrow and I'll post updates once I start taking stuff apart

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd heli coil it and have steel threads in there. If not comfy with doing it yourself, bring the pan to a machine shop and heve put the correct one in there. Personally, I'd pull the pan just to keep crap from getting circulated thru the engine and do it myself on a bench or a machine shop. A lot cheaper and stronger too...

 

[sxty8goats]

I'd heli coil it and have steel threads in there. If not comfy with doing it yourself, bring the pan to a machine shop and heve put the correct one in there. Personally, I'd pull the pan just to keep crap from getting circulated thru the engine and do it myself on a bench or a machine shop. A lot cheaper and stronger too...

The only problem I have with a helicoil in this application is the diamiter of the hole needed to insert the HC. A 1/2-13 helicoil insert uses a 3/4-(?) thread. That takes a lot of sealing surface away from that oil plug. The crush washer isn't much bigger than 3/4 dia. You could end up with a leaky plug. (yes these are inch numbers but the metric equiv is constructed the same.

For Ref, here is a 1/2-13 HC installed in an old mold I'm working on:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The only problem I have with a helicoil in this application is the diamiter of the hole needed to insert the HC. A 1/2-13 helicoil insert uses a 3/4-(?) thread. That takes a lot of sealing surface away from that oil plug. The crush washer isn't much bigger than 3/4 dia. You could end up with a leaky plug. (yes these are inch numbers but the metric equiv is constructed the same.

For Ref, here is a 1/2-13 HC installed in an old mold I'm working on:

______________________________________________________________

If the tolerances are that close I would think a metric "Time sert" might take care of the problem... They have metric kits as well.... Pretty neat idea...

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,


Here is a link to another drain plug problem and how it was repaired: http://www.seizethejourney.com/rideinfo/zmjr.asp

 

[sxty8goats]

______________________________________________________________

If the tolerances are that close I would think a metric "Time sert" might take care of the problem... They have metric kits as well.... Pretty neat idea...

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,

I haven't worked with a lot of metric thread in my designs as I am a simple stuborn American. Actually the companies I've worked for have all worked with standard fasteners. I have used a bit here and there. Looking at the size, I'm guessing it is a 12 or 13mm bolt. I would expect at least 3 or 4mm more on the total diameter of the insert. The Crush washer and the bolt shoulder would have to exceed that by an additional 3 or 4 mm on the total diameter to seal. (leaving 1.5 to 2 mm sealing surface) So you are looking at a a crush washer that is 12.5 mm on the ID and 18 to 21 mm on the OD. I just don't like a helicoil in this application. Maybe if you sunk the coil 1.25 mm (.050") to form an o-ring pocket and used an oring around the bolt as a seal.