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Addition of Motrax Hootaz horns

SANGER_A2

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I installed these horns on my last bike instead of the two awful stock horns and I was very pleased with them. Although the stock horn on the FZ6 is better than both the GPZ500S horns added together, I thought it could benefit from replacement with these bad boys. They're very cheap and available everywhere.

I realised I would have to make up a cable that splits the voltage from the stock horn cable into two. Then I thought "Hmmm, as I'm going to be soldering anyway, I might as well split it three ways instead of just two and keep the stock horn as well". So I did.

I've got loads of cable lying around and I also had some female spade connectors lying around that I had from other jobs. You need two male spade connectors and 6 female. I popped down to Maplin to buy the male connectors for a pound. I also bought a set of male and female spade protectors when I was there for a pound a packet. This mod has cost me £3! It will be a bit more if you don't have the wire or female spade connectors already though.

You don't even need to buy an bolts etc as I used the bolt that holds the inner fairing in place. It's the one that you have to screw in from the inside and is hidden by the fairing itself so I couldn't get any decent pictures of the horns in place. The Motrax Hootaz come with a little extension bracket thingy if you need it and I used this to get them to hang a bit lower and angled them to point towards the two inlets in the front of the bike.

Here you can see the cable I made up. All the connections are sealed in heatshrink and then loads of electrical tape to make them weather-proof:-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_1.jpg

Here are the bits you need. It's all pretty obvious where they go if you look at the previous picture, so I won't go into details:-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_2.jpg

Here you can see where my cable connects to the stock horn connectors (I taped it to the right side of the bike near the tank):-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_3.jpg

Here you can see the left-hand Motrax horn (I highlighted the horn and it's power cable in red to make it easier):-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_4.jpg

Here is where my cable connects to the stock horn. I had to bend the stock bracket down a bit and rotate it so that the connectors were forwards. This is because the stock connectors are right-angled and don't stick up - but mine aren't:-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_5.jpg

Here you can see the right-hand Motrax horn hidden under the inner fairing and the inlet it is pointing to where (hopefully) most of the sound will go:-
tn_22Motrax_Hootaz_6.jpg

And here we have a little Youtube video to show the difference:-
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu-339hkRMA]YouTube - Yamaha FZ6 with Motraz Hootaz horns comparison[/ame]

As aways, this and my other mods are mirrored on my website.
 
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nice, it sounds like a car horn now.
Yeah it's pretty close. Still quite high-pitched like a motorcycle horn though so I shouldn't get mistaken for a car!

I just have to be extra careful when parking etc with a tank bag as this thing is LOUD and sometimes the bag hits the horn button with my risers. :eek:
 
He's a 'Stiglet' ! :thumbup:
Actually, I was going to change my status to "Stiglet", but then I thought I'd see what the default option now is instead of "Junior Member" and I'm a "Super Member"! I'm loving that so it's staying. Not bad in 4 months!!! :Flip:
 
Someone asked me for more details about how/where I mounted the horns. I'm too lazy to go outside and take pictures and especially not to dismantle the whole thing so I found a couple of pictures I'd taken of other mods and circled where the bolt goes that I attached the horns to. Basically the bolt goes through one end of the bracket supplied with the horns, then through the inner fairing cover that surrounds the clocks etc and bolts into a nut attached to the outer fairing.

If you take the inner fairing cover off you'll see it. Basically, it's the bolt that catches you out when trying to remove the inner fairing. You remove the four bolts that hold the little bits of fairing in next to the tank and then remove those two bits. then you undo the four bolts holding the larger inner fairing cover in above and to the side of the clocks, then you try and remove the fairing and realise there are two more bolts to remove hidden underneath it.

The bolt goes roughly here (on the inside of the fairing, under the inner fairing cover):-


Here you can actually see the nut that the bolt goes into when the inner faring is on:-
 
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