Somethin Black

Bike looks magnificent - she looks like mine did 15,000 miles ago. Check out some of my posts or send me a message if you're interested in inspiring thoughts or ideas on what can be modded for cheap to tie everything together.

Ride safe, keep it tame, and keep the front end down (unless there's nobody around:thumbup: )

My Todo goes like this:

I want to live; first on the list is to modulate the empty dark unlit hole where they could'a lit the damn light!

This is toss, but front springs, oil and maybe valving on the forks comes next.

Wheel tape, can't decide; gotta red/balck helmet, jacket is black with silver retro-reflective stripes. So the Wheel tape should be: _________________? Yes, I want you're input here!

This is silly, but those empty holes in the cowl next to the light need some color! There will be more color and lights!

The pipe - not that I need more power, but if there is a pipe that helps the midrange, I'm up for that. I doubt i'll lay down 700usd for one tho. Still thinking on that one. . . But the realist side of me says, make it handle better 1st and see where you are!

So I'll leave it at that for now.

As for your ideas on the cheap, feel free to share! :thumbup:

Again, thanks for you input!

Re: Another Great Ride!

In the last two days I've done over 250miles of seriously twisted roads! There were some tests along the way which I'll say I past successfully; the worst be a rural road where a pickup backed out out in front of me. Brake test!

Something I did which made a HUGE difference in rider fatigue was to to rotate the brake and clutch so my forearm remains parallel when operating the levers. I'm 5'10" with 33" inseam so most of my height comes from the torso. With the the factory location of the levers it makes my wrists tilt up so I rotated the levers downwards.
People, if you find this it true of you, rotate the levers to align with your forearm so your wrist is not pitched upwards! But BE WARNED! The added mechanical advantage you get makes it real easy to pull that brake hard so be careful!!!

These two trips had more corners, hills, valleys, revers banks, switch backs, super wide roads and extremely narrow roads blah blah blah it had it all. From tight low speed 10mph markings to drop over the knoll and find a 90degree turn onto the bridge! I had a blast these past two days.

The FZ is a fun bike!

To the west is the direction I came from;
Lolo Pass Rd, Oregon - Google Maps

These maps don't do much for telling the story. . . Find the most twisted road; thats the one we're talking about! :thumbup:


Ride #2:
For the speed freaks that wish to go 100 mph around the corners - this is the place! Its also riddled with crosses every where to mark the failures of many. . .
Clackamas Hwy 224, Oregon - Google Maps
View attachment 35315

I may come back and write more . . . for now, this will do!
FP

FinalImpact said:

My Todo goes like this:

I want to live; first on the list is to modulate the empty dark unlit hole where they could'a lit the damn light!

This is toss, but front springs, oil and maybe valving on the forks comes next.

Wheel tape, can't decide; gotta red/balck helmet, jacket is black with silver retro-reflective stripes. So the Wheel tape should be: _________________? Yes, I want you're input here!

This is silly, but those empty holes in the cowl next to the light need some color! There will be more color and lights!

The pipe - not that I need more power, but if there is a pipe that helps the midrange, I'm up for that. I doubt i'll lay down 700usd for one tho. Still thinking on that one. . . But the realist side of me says, make it handle better 1st and see where you are!

So I'll leave it at that for now.

As for your ideas on the cheap, feel free to share! :thumbup:

Again, thanks for you input!

Click to expand...

Silver rim tape....other cheap modding idea's, poilsh everything that gleams!

As for for mid range grunt, go -2 on your front sprocket.

:thumbup:

Re: Head light Modulation

Looking at Details to get this Project underway!

Excerpt from Title 49 of the Code of Federal Regulations -
49CFR Section 571.108, Paragraph S7.9.4, entitled "Motorcycle Headlamp Modulation System"
S7.9.4 Motorcycle headlamp modulation system


S7.9.4.1 A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity provided that:
(a) The rate of modulation shall be 240 plus-or-minus 40 cycles per minute.
(b) The headlamp shall be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70 percent of each cycle.
(c) The lowest intensity at any test point shall not be less than 17 percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point.
(d) The modulator switch shall be wired in the power lead of the beam filament being modulated and not in the ground side of the circuit.
(e) Means shall be provided so that both the lower beam and upper beam remain operable in the event of a modulator failure.
(f) The system shall include a sensor mounted with the axis of its sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation shall cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament light operating at 3000 degrees Kelvin is either less than 270 lux (25 foot-candles) of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than 60 lux (5.6 foot-candles) of reflected light for downward pointing sensors. This light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R-27) is placed at ground level to simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors.

(g) When tested in accordance with the test profile shown in Figure 9, the voltage drop across the modulator when the lamp is on at all test conditions for 12 volt systems and 6 volt systems shall not be greater than .45 volt. The modulator shall meet all of the provisions of the standard after completion of the test profile shown in Figure 9.

(h) Means shall be provided so that both the lower and upper beam function at design voltage when the headlamp control switch is in either the lower or upper beam position when the modulator is off.

S7.9.4.2
(a) Each motorcycle headlamp modulator not intended as original equipment, or its container, shall be labeled with the maximum wattage, and the minimum wattage appropriate for its use. Additionally, each such modulator shall comply with S7.9.4.1 (a) through (g) when connected to a headlamp of the maximum rated power and a headlamp of the minimum rated power, and shall provide means so that the modulated beam functions at design voltage when the modulator is off.

First Ride with a friend of mine this weekend. . . We did about 120 miles of twists and turns that even made my veteran friend say "those are some great roads!" With that, I must say my confidence since those first posts to now (about 1200 miles) has increased dramatically! This is great bike and its blast to ride! Once you find some roads where you can do some fast continuous transitions from left to right it just makes me grin!

I'm having lots of fun and am pretty relaxed about leaning the bike over and and/or leaning it over even more if the need arises. As an added bonus talking with more people about riding styles is a plus too. I find these rides very rewarding bringing me clarity while using all senses to keep presence of mind. I guess dirt biking on a track has some similarities but there I'm racing to beat my best time; out here in the wild there are so many variables to assess all the time it keeps the brain busy!

I still haven't done any mods to the bike other than stretching the chain out a tad! Up time is 100% and no close calls that come to mind as far as dumping it goes, so thats good news to me! Cornering and braking skills are much better even over gravel and slippery stuff. Don't get me wrong and think I'm riding over my head or my confidence is exceeding my skills, I'm just saying I'm steadily improving with time in the saddle.

I guess my second dig would be the heat in stand still traffic. Man it gets hot down low. I can't imagine standing in traffic on 95F heat and feeling the heat boil out from below. . . And lastly, I do wish the bike made more midrange power so a sprocket change may be in the works later which could help this issue -> I've been running Chevron Plus (89 oct) because I hear the engine knock and/or detonate under some take offs. I'm not big on slipping the clutch and revving the engine to 3k to take off so paying extra for the mid range fuel does seem to help this.

Thats about it for now. . .
Thanks for reading along!

FinalImpact said:

I'm not big on slipping the clutch and revving the engine to 3k to take off

Click to expand...

Why not? It's a wet clutch. Slipping it at 3k to take off won't hurt it one bit.

This may be a stupid question, but I always was taught to never use synthetic with that friction eliminator additive. Something about having issues with the clutch slipping if it gets coated in that stuff. I know a lot of us run synthetic though. I just switched mine to the Rotella stuff and don't think it has the friction eliminator. Is that something to watch out for when changing oil? And no I don't want to get into the whole "What's the best oil" argument. :spank:

I'm just worried about the friction and wet clutch issue.

RedsReboot said:

This may be a stupid question, but I always was taught to never use synthetic with that friction eliminator additive. Something about having issues with the clutch slipping if it gets coated in that stuff. I know a lot of us run synthetic though. I just switched mine to the Rotella stuff and don't think it has the friction eliminator. Is that something to watch out for when changing oil? And no I don't want to get into the whole "What's the best oil" argument. :spank:

I'm just worried about the friction and wet clutch issue.

Click to expand...

Nothing to worry about.. Rotella is safe. It's very simple (and has been covered to death on this forum and probably just about every other motorcycle related forum ) .. as long as it has JASO MA designation, it is safe to use for wet clutch application (Rotella fits into this category).

Re: Somethin Black, 90 day check in

Update:
To date we've covered over 1700 miles since the weather improved (late May and June). No scares, no downs, no pants wetting, maybe some minor mistakes on my part but nothing alarming or fearful. :thumbup:

Other than peeling some of the stickers off the bike, no real changes to the bike either. Ya, other issues in life came up drawing funds unexpectedly so the FZ springs will have to wait. The engine makes its share of noises and they seem pretty typical of a bike engine so I'm not concerned. The chain has stretched a tad and got a very minor adjustment. I am seeing that the front tire (still OEM) is starting to scallop on the right side (as viewed from the bikes seat). She was waxed which makes bug removal easy but in short, all is well for bike and rider.

Within the next 30 days I'll bleed the brakes, change the coolant and drop some fresh oil in it for good measures.

Nearly a year later and here we go:

R6 forks - check (but not here yet as of 2012-01-29)
New tires - check
Levers - check
Tail Tidy - check
New Bars - check
Rear Blinkers - check
Pod Lights - check
headlight = Not modded yet, but will be during R6 fork install
Stickers = Gone

FinalImpact Somethin Black 2008 FZ6 Mods

Post#32 of Something Black - Links and info:
To be edited often adding links, data, Problems, Solutions, and well - what ever comes to mind. . .

FORKS & SUSPENSION:
First thanks in advance all of you folks that did the R6 fork mod!!! Here are some helpful links in one place for reference (mainly me :/). . .

R6 Spork
R6 Fork Install Another One
Help Need Correct PN for 2004 R6 Axle
R6 Forks Arrived, Couple of questions
Hyperpro lowering springs
HyperPro Springs installed
Front fork mods pita factor vs payoff
Bolt-r6-fork-upgrade
Ricor Intiminator fork mod
R6 Fork Mod Spacers


2012-02-11 My fleebay R6 Forks:
**********************************
Oil is pretty clean for 3000 mile forks. It has a gray haze to it and blackness at the beakers bottom. Some metalic bits. . .
Spec says 490mL should have come out. I got 470mL.
Another observation is that the coil spring winding is supposed to be wound tighter at the top. Nada - equal throughout the entire coil.
As found:
Coil Dia= 4.72mm 0.186"
Coil spacing = 9.26mm .366" between coils
Free length = 252mm spec: >244 <249 (9.81" - 9.62")
Coil count: 7coils/10cm or 17 coils not counting ground ends.
REFILL: hahaha magically the 1 pint bottle is 473mL
Without the spring and spacers and washers in the way and with the tube collapsed it should measure from the top 106 mm (4.17 in).

View attachment 40352 View attachment 40353 View attachment 40354

My hi-tech tool to keep the dampening rod from disappearing. Also notice how thin the washer is that bucks the load of the spring (right under the cap).
View attachment 40359 View attachment 40360


So i have to ask; have the springs been replaced? The cap has been wrenched on (before I got them) and there is lint balls in the caps threads. Would Yamaha leave lint balls? I'm glad I looked and at least we kinda have a starting point if I do end up swapping springs later.

Oh - going back in is 10wt oil cause I think that's what we need for me plus gear + bike + style. Book calls for 05wt but our beloved FZ is nealy 100lb heavier than the R6. . .
As for cleaning; I grabbed an extra pint of oil to cycle through and rinse, shake and loosen the sediment. It seem to be working. Also, leaving the fork upright allows oil to drain from the valving and pool so it can be dumped out. Leaving it inverted traps it and nothing really drains once a bulk of the oil has been dumped. So let them sit and then dump out what pools in the bottom a couple times and then invert them to let the debris seep out.

You really want to pay attention to the measurement of the jamb nut to the dampening rod (11 mm (0.43 in)). The distance is critical so the rebound adjustment is the same between the two forks and centered for full range of use. I didn't take a picture of it, but there is an aluminum rod inside of the dampening rod that moves up and down controlling the rebound when the adjuster in the cap is turned. Once the nut is at 11mm, tighten the BLUE collar onto the jamb nut so it doesn't move in relation to the rods end.

Last little note on this topic; you must apply mild pressure on the cap to engage the caps threads when mating the two together. At least the R's have a dampening rod so it can't go flying across the room!

EDIT: 2012-02-19, installed R6 forks WORK IN PROGRESS GOTTA GO!
**********************************
Finally checked the sag on the front and rear suspension right before removing the stock forks and replacing them. Sag is a simple measurement of suspension fully extended vs the suspension at its average height after being settled from both an extended position and a compression return. You average the 2 numbers it settled at to remove stiction which is the drag of all of the components. Sag = "difference from fully extended" - "average settled height".

Anyway my 08 with 8k miles on it came in like this with me at 188lbs w/out gear:
Front sag = 43mm (compresses 1.7" from me sitting on it)
Rear sag = 29mm (compresses 1.1" from me sitting on it)

R6 forks installed:
Front sag = 31mm and adjustable +/-20mm
Rear sag 29mm

Several articles say that 25 to 35mm is good for the street while racing applications head closer to 20 to 25mm. So this is my starting point for this season and to be adjusted as needed. . .

As you can see the stock front springs are dropping a good deal just from me sitting on it and its soft progressive rates compress easily hence the higher numeric stag# in the front. Having it closer to matching (31) should make it take bumps and surface imperfections in the corners much better if both ends of the bike have closer to the same sag and spring rates.


A 2004 R6 was the doner bike with 3400 miles on it. The rates for the front are:
Spring rate K1: ___________8.3 N/mm (0.83 kg/mm, 46.49 lb/in)

vrs stock FZ6 dual rate of:
Spring rate K1: __________7.40 N/mm (42.25 lb/in) (0.75 kgf/mm)
Spring rate K2: __________11.80 N/mm (67.38 lb/in) (1.20 kgf/mm)

What does all this mean: The FZ has 5.1" of travel. The second rate comes into play near the end of those 5" when the nose is diving hard under braking (1.20 kgf/mm). Granted many are buying Race Tech Springs to firm things up and most are opting for 0.95kg/mm. But as most of you know the stock FZ springs use up a good 3.5" of travel over minor bumps and braking.
I know I may end up swapping springs but these forks make it easy to dial in the sag as well as adjust both compression dampening and rebound dampening. Time will tell where we land with the springs. . . How will this impact cornering; with less initial rake from the nose being higher it will change how it feels. However, these forks are a 1/2" shorter 12.5mm. SOoooooooo, if you were to look at the sag vrs ride height -the numbers really come back to the same numbers in terms of rake or angle on the nose because the relationship of the steering head to the axle is very near the same as it was with the softer springs (@43mm) vs 31mm (& shorter forks 12.5mm). Make sense?

Edit: hey if you don't want to swap parts but want to help the bikes nose, at least add some new spacers to the front springs to fix the sag so you can ride safer. . .

**********************************
2012-10-17
Rear R1 shock came. The prices on fleebay are so low its like how could you not play around a little???
I need to swap springs and grind on the upper shock mount and plastic. In the mean time here are some things to think about.

=====================================

2008 FZ6 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 50mm (1.97")
Setting #1 light: 175.2mm (6.90")
Setting #7 firm: 165.8mm (6.53")
Installed length MANUAL: 172.0 mm (6.77 in), doesn't say what setting tho.

Range of preload: 9.4mm (0.37")
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.76mm (0.463")
Spring free length 185.0 mm (7.28")
Spring rate K1: 12.99 kgf/mm (727.45 lb/in), 127.40 N/mm

=====================================

2003 R1 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 65 mm (2.56")
Setting #1 light: 175.2mm (6.90")
Setting #9 firm: 165.8mm (6.53")
Installed length MANUAL: 162.5 mm (6.4 in), doesn't say what setting tho.

Range of preload: 9.4mm (0.37") /Min = 1, Ship @ 4, max = 9
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.76mm (0.463")
Free length 176.5 mm (6.95 in)
Spring rate K1: 8.83 kg/mm, (504 lb/in), 88.3 N/mm

SHOCK dampening from fully turned in:
Rebound damp min: 32
Reb Standard: 15
Rebound damp max: 1

Compression damp min: 20
Compression damp stand: 15
Compression damp max: 1

=====================================

So my FZ is set on #5. From this I will measure the installed height at the #5 position and adjust the R1 body to this distance. Looking at the info I gathered this will be a bit of a challenge and may require some adjustments to the spring seat/retainer as the area for the spring is not the same between the two bodies/adjusters. Hopefully this is obtainable.
The other issue is the R1 Shock assembly has more travel. The Shock needs to be fitted to the bike WITHOUT the spring and then exercise the entire range of travel so I know how the chain will be affected and where and what is going to hit if anything. It may be worth while to add a solid spacer under the biscuit to limit the travel so its equal to the FZ shock.

Simple math indicates the this shock would allow 6.6" of travel vs 5.1". is that a problem? IDK!
If the shock allows me to set the installed height equal to my current setting #5, I think we'll be off to a good start once the springs are swapped. Also the bushings will need some help too!

FZ #1 light: 175.2mm // R1 #1 light: 167mm
FZ #7 firm: 165.8mm // R1 #9 firm: 159mm
--------------------------------------------
- - - - - - - 9.4mm - - - - - - - 8mm

Although the range is near the same, the actual distance between the spring lands is where the issue lies. Well unless you opt for the custom wound spring! Mind you I'm using someone elses measurements for the Fiz shock as mine is still on the bike and difficult to measure. All I'm saying is be prepared to switch up the spring retainer to get the proper pre-load so the setup has a reasonable sag and stands a chance of working right.

=====================================


LIGHTING:
Left-handlebar-switch
BD43's 07-headlight-mod-part-2

Electronic-flasher-relays-great-price

Yamaha OEM Blinker Connector, 3 Wire OEM Plug for Yamaha Turn Signal, PAIR
Yamaha OEM Blinker Connector, 3 Wire OEM Plug for Yamaha Turn Signal, PAIR | eBay

Raw OEM parts - connect LED turn indicators to OEM harness the RIGHT WAY!!!!
NT-040

Google this: LED Flasher Relay ELFR-1 *FAST BLINKER FIX* OEM Connect


SEAT MODS:
Gel-seat-under-80
How-make-gel-seat


PAINT:
Metalic Black Paint (Raven Look Alike!)
Some bars came out of here too!!! FWIW, metallic paints run so easy. Heating the parts to a 150 175F makes for run free applications.


View attachment 45801

Fiche as promised.



View attachment 40362

Re: Somethin Black //2nd Ride

FinalImpact said:

As the title shows, I finally got a second ride in the beast. Went about 65 miles all of which is tight corners through the woods hills and valleys! IT was Very nice! Much more relaxed and able to be one with the bike never having to work at anything too hard.

In another thread there is a "how far do you look ahead" section. I found that I look way ahead just as in my car driving style. One time I did error as i think I was looking to the next corner when I should have been slowing for the one I was on. I still had plenty of time to act, but I did make that mistake.

My sis lives out in the woods and said on any nice days she can hear the bees coming though the canyon (hint crotch rocket (w/pipes) = bees). I'll stop there with her explanation as I'll get banned if use her words. Suffice it to say they are typically moving right along. . .

Here is a little Google Map showing some of the terrain if you wish too look.
crown point - Google Maps

This is just my opinion, but I hate the front forks on this thing :thumbdown:. Its a bike and it rides, but I know its just way to soft in the nose. All corners, all bumps the nose is down and seems to have 1/2 the spring rate as the rear consuming most of the suspension travel over very small surface changes. That in itself is not so bad, but the back isn't following it like that so it upsets the trajectory in the corners ever slow slightly giving ti a washboard feeling. I'll be doing the spring and oil change sooner than later. . .

Anyway, the ride was great until I got up in the snow and froze important parts off. I was going to stop and take pictures, but didn't want to hang around. On the way down the mt I had my hands on the block for warmth if that tells you anything.

The Roads were 95% dry so I had it leaned over and wasn't fearing the worst unlike my first ride where tree coverage left everything wet leaving only dry spots where the sun touches the earth. . . Then I was hardly doing the speed limit and was well below the posted corner speeds. This time, I was easily doubling the posted corner speeds with confidence, entry, mid and exit of corners were exactly the lines I'd picked so It was very successful.
I tried harder braking in straights and corners to know our potential, locked the rear once for moment, but it didn't upset the bike, slid on film of gravel due to bad lane positioning but again, it was graceful and clean.
In short I think we have a future together! :thumbup:

I'm looking forward to more rides. . . .Now its too rain again today. . .
- sadness -

Click to expand...

Congrats on the new bike,
I was just wondering? I weigh 180lbs fully geared up and to me the FZ6 has a great front end.
For me it is gives great feedback. Once I hit diesel at 40mph and the bars went from lock to lock, I kept the throttle on and it just straightened itself out. Could the fact that you have been riding dirt bikes for such a long time just mean that you have to tune into the FZ6.
As you say you have only had the opportunity to ride the bike a few times.
I couldn't stand the on off throttle when I first started riding the FZ6.
Just spend a few more hours getting tuned into the bike before making any big changes.
Just my thoughts mate.
Good luck
Nelly

Re: Somethin Black //2nd Ride

Nelly said:

Congrats on the new bike,
I was just wondering? I weigh 180lbs fully geared up and to me the FZ6 has a great front end.
For me it is gives great feedback. Once I hit diesel at 40mph and the bars went from lock to lock, I kept the throttle on and it just straightened itself out. Could the fact that you have been riding dirt bikes for such a long time just mean that you have to tune into the FZ6.
As you say you have only had the opportunity to ride the bike a few times.
I couldn't stand the on off throttle when I first started riding the FZ6.
Just spend a few more hours getting tuned into the bike before making any big changes.
Just my thoughts mate.
Good luck
Nelly

Click to expand...

Nelly Nelly Nelly - same ol me, same ol FZ (about 5000 miles together last year). I just wasn't into starting a bunch of new threads and figured I'd do a rolling update of how I started and how it ended all in one place. By March of this year it'll be year with the same girl (I mean bike!). . .

But ya, the the stock front springs are way to soft and are not a proper match for the rear with its non-progressive rate. Now maybe mine crapped out as bought it from a larger fellow but the point being the two ends of the bike should resist compression at nearly the same rate over bumps and mine plummets in the front while the back nearly kicks over the same bump. Me I'm at 190lbs plus gear and I know I can achieve better results given new tools and means of adjusting so that is my path. And yes, from the dirt days I am picky about how it feels; i.e. how does it settle down after being on the gas, how does it return after letting off the brakes, does it stay in contact with the surface over choppy terrain. With these forks I stand a chance of adjusting it to my liking. That's what I hope at least. Then I'll try to do the rear shock.

It's all good and with my situation like it is, the FZ will be around for a while. . . Looking back - she's still new to me! Tks!

Ha ha, my bad. Let me correct myself.
I agree it sounds like your front end needs some work mate.


Sent from my HTC Desire S

R6 Forks are in!!!
I'll post some pictures later but I think the only thing that hasn't been done to death with that R6 fork install is getting the stock fender on there.

I used a air powered rotary file with an aggressive metal carbide cutting tip. Ripped through that plastic stuff like butter cutting some nice slots so the fender would drop over the mounting bosses.

So here's the basics on the bike setup.

I measured the front and rear suspension sag with the stock FZ forks and again with the stock 04 R6 forks.
Front FZ6 = 43 to 44 mm sag
Rear FZ6 = 29.3 mm sag

After installing the R6 and adjusting:
Front R6 = 31mm sag but I could easily adjust it for less but I don't think thats needed yet.

The job took about 4 hours, 30 minutes of it being finding a way to prop the bike up so the forks could be removed. A chain saw and round of hemlock did the trick. Under the headers it went. Weather was nasty and seeing's I started late - no test drive. One thing I will say is that shoving it down with the brake applied it doesn't dive near as much! I could nearly compress the forks all the way before. Not so now. A step in the right directions.

No Stickers // Photo from the past I found. . .




Left 2008 FZ6 and Right 2004 R6:


Tape to cut here


Fender is cut


Finished install





EDIT: 2012-02-23, The test drive after intalling them
**********************************
A 30 mile ride through hills, valleys, off canter roads with reverse pitch banks, land slides, straight aways, gravel, and wet roads - you name it this terrain covers it. MASSIVE improvement in braking and corning!!!
The stopping ability and the stance the bike retains is phenomenal!!! No more nut in the tank when it nose dives! Lots more feed back and response!
When done I had the compression and rebound centered. I ended up backing the compression out 4 clicks to soften it some and it needs just a tad more. The thing is ITS SO NIGHT AND DAY, perhaps I simply need to get used to what it should be cause the nose was so squashy before. Almost like jumping on an excersize ball.

The most amazing thing was 70mph to 0mph stop. I didn't feel like I was going to fly over the handlebars. In fact it was so aggressive smoke was coming from the front tire right on the edge of lock up!

Cornering is equally improved too as we can hold a nice line over bumps and sink holes without it making the bike wobble. I'm impressed to say the leased. The FZ is a real bike now.... :lol:


*******************************
BOLT ON DONOR R6 PARTS COME FROM:
*******************************

5SL-23102-00-00 FRONT FORK ASSY (L.H.) << obviously you need the right too!
5SL-23102-00-00 YAMAHA FRONT FORK ASSY (L.H

2003 R6 - YZFR6SRC FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6R FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6RC FRONT FORK
2003 YZFR6 - YZFR6SR FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6S FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SC FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SCS FRONT FORK
2004 YZF-R6 - YZFR6SS FRONT FORK
2006 R6S - YZFR6SV FRONT FORK
2006 R6S - YZFR6SVC FRONT FORK
2007 R6S - YZFR6SW FRONT FORK
2007 R6S CA - YZFR6SWC FRONT FORK 2008 R6S - YZFR6SXB FRONT FORK
2008 R6S - YZFR6SXL FRONT FORK
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXBC FRONT FORK
2008 R6S CA - YZFR6SXLC FRONT FORK
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCB FRONT FORK
2008 YZF-R6S - YZFR6SXCL FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYB FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCB FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYCL FRONT FORK
2009 YZFR6S - YZFR6SYL FRONT FORK
********************************

PN from 03 - 09:
5SL-23102-00-00, FRONT FORK ASSY (L.H)
5SL-23103-00-00, FRONT FORK ASSY (R.H)

Which look like:


For 04 - 06 owners you need the calipers too!
Calipers Needed are 07-09 FZ6
4S8-2580T-00-00 CALIPER ASSY (LEFT)
4S8-2580U-00-00 CALIPER ASSY (RIGHT)

Some changes I've made made and scattered about the forum since the R6 fork install. . . and the tires for Christmas!

More pictures. . .

EvoTech Tail. . .

I really like those grips, and the rear signals look extremely nice on the bike. Might have to get me a set of them. Great looking bike so far!