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WTB (or borrow): Spark-plug removal tool

pizzle

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Hey all,

I'm looking for the sparkplug removal tool. Anyone I can score one off of? If you're in the San Jose CA area, perhaps I could just borrow it for a weekend? Otherwise, I'm okay with buying one.

Thanks,
Eric
 
:welcome:to the best MC forum on the big WWW!

I use a combo spark plug socket "U" joint and extension combo to get the plugs changed on the FZ6. It can get a little tricky. Make sure you blow out the spark plug well before removing the plug in case there's any debris in the well.
I'm sure others will chime in with great advice and experience. When you put your new plugs in, gap them to the FZ6 manual specification and not just what they're set to out of the box. :)
 
09 10 11 12 Yamaha FZ6R FZ6 OEM Tool Set Case on eBay!

Listed as Fz6R but the tool looks the same, I dunno if anybody else can confirm

I believe that set is the same as mine (S2). The engines about the same so it should be...

When I changed my plugs, I used the factory spark plug socket. I was able to get a small torque wrench, (inch pounds), 3/8" drive (think I used a small socket on the yamaha tool-it's been awhile) for the re-installation.. (I do have various/numerous sockets/spark plug sockets etc but the Yamaha stocker worked best).

Between the deep, factory socket, another socket to the torque wrench, I had a straight shot at all the plugs for torqueing (SP?) purposes from the right side (loosened the radiator only)..
 
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I changed the first set of plugs at 12k miles. I do recall the left side plugs are easier to get at if you remove the coolant hose otherwise it's a long reach from the right side.

I would think you can use a 5/8" spark plug socket and a short extension to remove plugs. But the factory tool really works best

Decided to let these guys ride for awhile since the bike is running perfect. at 28.5k miles now. Maybe change them for next season.
 
Hey you're in luck! I live in San Jose, will be home this weekend, and have tools! I changed mine recently with what I have, so it must be do-able. Can't remember exactly how though. On OHC motors I almost always duct tape the socket to the extension, and the socket has a grabber gasket in it. I bet that's what I did. I also have vinyl tubing that can be used to get the plug out if the socket doesn't grab it.

Shoot me a PM and we'll get you hooked up.
 
Hey you're in luck! I live in San Jose, will be home this weekend, and have tools! I changed mine recently with what I have, so it must be do-able. Can't remember exactly how though. On OHC motors I almost always duct tape the socket to the extension, and the socket has a grabber gasket in it. I bet that's what I did. I also have vinyl tubing that can be used to get the plug out if the socket doesn't grab it.

Shoot me a PM and we'll get you hooked up.

If the socket doesn't have a rubber inside, simply putting a small piece of tape (duct or electrical) from the outside in, (test the tightness on one of the new plugs), you want it snug. Slip it over the old plug and it'll hang on to to it as you remove it.

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Parts from post #17 may help:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/41921-ngk-iridium-spark-plugs-2.html :



"I found the problems most guys having removing the plug caps is rectified by gently prying up on the rubber cap that seals the plastic spark plug lead to the valve cover. I used a thin long screwdriver, wrapped in duct tape to prevent any scratching. Once the seal was broke, the caps came off much easier.. An air compressor was used to blow out any crap in each cavern..

When later re-assembling, I put just a little bit of di-lectric grease on the inside of the valve cover so the rubber doesn't stick, is more water proof and assembles much easier.

I used the tool kit socket but also used a combo box end 14mm wrench that rachets (Craftsman). Much easier, especially when reaching in to #2and #3 plugs. One click at a time due to the tightness..

For the new plug installation, I used a short piece of hose (about 5") that fit snuggly on the new plugs and feed that down into the hole and threaded it by hand.

Yamaha's manual calls for 13' lbs of torque, the spark plug box 1/2 turn past snug, NGK's website for a 10 mm thread 7.2' to 8.7 ' lbs of torque.

I was able to use the toolkit socket, with a short 6 point 14mm socket and an inch pound torqe wrench. I was able to reach all the plugs (with the radiator dropped per the manual) and torque to 7.2' (felt very tight)."
 
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