Winterizing The FZ6

[wrightme43]

I have never used it.
I dont know about anyone else but my fuel doesnt sit for more than a few days except in the winter, so there is no point in using a stabalizer then.
If it will sit for more than 4 weeks its good to put it in like your storing it. If its not going to sit, the fuel is fine.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

This is my first year with my bike. I plan on bringing her in the house. Put it on the center stand. Change the oil and plug in the battery tender. I am going to start her at least once a week or maybe every two weeks. And throw a sheet over it. Is this a good plan? Thanks :Sport:

You live in Texas... why put it away... I am under the impression that Texas has all year riding weather....

 

[CanadianFZ6]

When it's cold out, starting it for a few minutes and letting it sit idling is about the worst thing you can do. Condensation causes moisture to build up, causing rust and carbon buildup.

You mention that you're bringing it inside the house; if your house is heated, i can't see the problem with it. Of course, if it's inside, why would you start it? Better question, why not just put it in the garage? And if you're married, where do you find the woman that would let you bring your bike in the house???!?!?

... he lives in Texas, why put it away at all....

 

[Rich]

The only trouble I have ever had with fuel going bad was when I did use a fuel stabilizer. I added it to my boat late one fall, ran both the motors, and put it in storage.

Come spring, I test ran the big motor and it idled great, so I headed to the lake. Well, the big motor was fine, but the 9.9 kicker gave me fits all day, it wouldn't idle worth a darn and anything above idle it wouldn't do at all.

The dealer had a look at it and found bits of rubber in the carburetor. He ended up concluding it was probably the fuel stabilizer I had used.

I have never added anything to my fuel since. My rule is to keep them (your toys) all topped off with fuel to keep out condensation. During the cold winter months the fuel doesn't break down as quickly as it would during the hot summer months.

Anything that sits all summer, like my snowblower, I drain the fuel and leave it empty until I need it in the very late (hopefully) fall.

Everyone has their own theory about what to do, but that is what works for me, and as long as I don't have any problems I will continue to do the same. I do know guys that use fuel stabilizer faithfully and they won't do it any other way.

 

[fz6hawkeye]

So I have a storage question.

I put my bike away in mid November. It is stored in the heated basement of a Ranch-Style home, with a full tank and cover.

In October I called the dealership I got the bike from and they head mechanic there told me to run it dry, fill it full with Amoco Ultimate, put it away, and start it and run it about twice a month.

This sounded so weird to me, but I figured he knew more than I did.

Any thoughts?

 

[HavBlue]

Winterizing = Give good wet bath, apply polish, not wax, and put away. Charge battery once a month when riding weather permits and screw the temperatures.

Yup, it's winterized......GRIN...

 

[wrightme43]

So I have a storage question.

I put my bike away in mid November. It is stored in the heated basement of a Ranch-Style home, with a full tank and cover.

In October I called the dealership I got the bike from and they head mechanic there told me to run it dry, fill it full with Amoco Ultimate, put it away, and start it and run it about twice a month.

This sounded so weird to me, but I figured he knew more than I did.

Any thoughts?

No that is wrong.

Starting a bike, with out running it down the road, up to operating temp, and boiling all the bad stuff out of the oil is not right.

Condensation, combined with combustion byproducts, cause acids to form in oil. Starting it twice a month, will only increase these, with out removing them. Doesnt make any sense to me. It is better to either not run the bike (or any engine) at all, or to start it, and ride it for at least a half hour.

Fuel stabil is not as important with our fuel injectd bikes as it is with carb bikes. It is still a good idea. Fuel is not designed to sit for 4 months. It really isnt designed to sit for 4 months in a carbs float bowl with a open vent to the atmosphere.

 

[reiobard]

all i do is fut some stabilizer in it, ride it to my friends heated basement and cover it, I put cardboard under the tires (cement floor) and cover it, Take it out in April and smile all summer...

 

[Bo67]

My opinion only. If you're STORING it:
Fuel stabilizer-ok; it gives you peace of mind.
Oil-Change it due to peace of mind. Acidity is a non-issue.
Cylinders- Fogging oil or about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder then crank the engine to distribute. It's really more for lubrication after hibernation than anything else.
Tires- I'd just put it on the centerstand.
My thoughts on running the engine through the winter- Why not. Bring it up to operating temp and then shut it down once a week or so.
So far as oil changes it's just peace of mind. Any doubts; dip your finger in the oil; if it doesn't melt your skin it won't melt the metal in the cylinder walls. Most oils are at about ph 7 (neutral). You'd have to try really hard to get the ph to deviate from that. I change my oil due to contaminants, not acidity.
Bottom line: Fresh fuel (stabilizer to prevent oxidation)
Coat the cyilinders with oil to prevent corrosion
Disconnect the battery
Throw a piece of cardboard under the front tire if it makes you feel better. I personally don't but it can't hurt.
Your bike will be fine next season.

 

[HavBlue]

No that is wrong.

Starting a bike, with out running it down the road, up to operating temp, and boiling all the bad stuff out of the oil is not right.

Condensation, combined with combustion byproducts, cause acids to form in oil. Starting it twice a month, will only increase these, with out removing them. Doesnt make any sense to me. It is better to either not run the bike (or any engine) at all, or to start it, and ride it for at least a half hour.

Fuel stabil is not as important with our fuel injectd bikes as it is with carb bikes. It is still a good idea. Fuel is not designed to sit for 4 months. It really isnt designed to sit for 4 months in a carbs float bowl with a open vent to the atmosphere.

There are some real problems with this line of thinking although with standard dino oil it is correct..

If the owner is using a full synthetic oil there will not be a problem and that bike could sit or run static for a very, very long time with no issues at all. Running the bike twice a month and allowing it to make operating temperature will not harm a thing and this is exactly what I do and have done in the past. Fuel (today) is far different in that we do not use lead and other additives in the fuel; it burns much cleaner than it ever did pre 1976. I have let things sit for months and never had an issue with varnish or fuel deterioration. This isn't to say that it couldn't happen, only to say that with the modern unleaded fuels it is rare.

In regards to the running of the bike twice a month, the bike must run at rpm, not idle. If it is not, the charging system will not charge the battery sufficiently enough to overcome the draw of starting and eventually the battery will go low. It will also charge faster if the head lamp is disconnected.

 

[bd43]

So I couldn’t wait any longer. It was +9°C outside and for a couple of days now I’ve seen sport, touring, and cruiser out and about, I had to wake up the ‘ol baby from hibernation. I had the battery on a tender all winter (4 months to be exact and also the duration of this winterizing) and pulled it off and installed it in the bike. At this time I also installed the rubber-boot tender leads off the battery to have easy access to the charging. :thumbup: Checked the oil and coolant levels, topped the air pressure in the tires, and turned the key and vrooooom. :Flash: Oh, I missed that sound, and she started like it never went to sleep. I let it run up to normal temperature while I figured how to set the clock again. Sat, looked and listened to it for a while then shut it down. Didn’t take it out for a ride because I think there’s too much gravel and water runoff yet on the roads, and oh yeah, no registration at the moment. Just wanted to say, long story short, the winterizing worked! :thumbup::rockon::thumbup:

 

[HavBlue]

No that is wrong.

Starting a bike, with out running it down the road, up to operating temp, and boiling all the bad stuff out of the oil is not right.

Condensation, combined with combustion byproducts, cause acids to form in oil. Starting it twice a month, will only increase these, with out removing them. Doesnt make any sense to me. It is better to either not run the bike (or any engine) at all, or to start it, and ride it for at least a half hour.

Fuel stabil is not as important with our fuel injectd bikes as it is with carb bikes. It is still a good idea. Fuel is not designed to sit for 4 months. It really isnt designed to sit for 4 months in a carbs float bowl with a open vent to the atmosphere.

Been here, same place you are, for two years now. Have 9 bikes and two tractors running. Only 1 has FI and everything else is carbed. I do not use dino oils. I do not use fuel additive and during the winter months do start things and run them up to operating temperature for roughly 30 minutes a wack. I have no problems nor do I anticipate having a problem. These machines do get stored inside.

 

[SanNYC]

Question: Do I need to replace the oil filter again if I replaced it when I stored the bike in the fall? I only rode it one day since it was stored.

 

[snowmannn]

Regarding the teaspoon of oil in each cylinder - do you all perform this step of the winterizing procedure and doesn't the fully synthetic oil burn incompletely and cause some "dirt" inside the cylinder? Also, I noticed suggestions on several places in the Net to change your oil right before winterizing. I see no such instruction in FZ's Owners Manual. What do you think about this?

Thanks