Wheel bearing issue?

[Capo79]

Hi guys!

Yesterday I noticed this grinding noise from the real wheel while reversing the bike, and I immidiately thought it was the chain or sprockets. I changed that last year, so I realized it couldn't be, and the chain is allways well lubed. After cleaning the bike thoroughly, that noise was stille there. I put it up on the paddock stand, and I am relatively sure it is one of the bearings. The odd thing though, is that the wheel did not wiggle when I tried to pull and push it, so it is fairly secure in all axis.

So, who here have changed bearings? And how difficult was it? I don't know if it's necessary to do it before winter (it's only one month left of riding, give or take), but I will have to do it before next season. Any answer is highly appreciated:thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd start by removing the rear wheel first. Once removed, reach into the wheel and feel how the bearings feel when rotating, any stiffness, etc. Should be nice and smooth.

In the sprocket/drive hub, there's also a bearing in there. If you stick the sprocket assembly on the axle you may see the hub wobble (hold the inner part of the bearing from turning) indicating its failed/failing. Again, should be nice and smooth..

You will need a c-clip remover as a c-clip holds in the right side wheel bearing in the wheel if necessary.

I have had, on my old KLR, had to replace the hub bearing, that bike didn't put out 1/4 of the HP the FZ does so I'd look real hard at that bearing. Mine wobbled...


If none of that pans out, you may also try loosening up the chain and removing it from the rear sprocket and re-tighten everything.

Then try backing up, it'll let you know for certain if its the wheel assembly. If you still hear it, there's a problem in the wheel. If not, the chain, or something else is the problem...

Good luck...

 

[FinalImpact]

You might want to pull the caliper up first and confirm its not debris trapped in the brake pads. Unless - well - it's obviously not that area.

Another tip to locate the noise prior to wheel removal is a long screw driver or a rounded piece of wood to the suspect area and your ear. Seat your ear on the tool of choice and move the other end around. Use a NEW wooden toilet plunger handle and place it to your ear and the bearings then give it a spin. You should hear it. Oh - same with the caliper for that matter.

Even as bearings start to go bad, it doesn't mean you will feel "play" in them. The a noise a bearing makes while going into self destruction is subtle as the plating and hardness of the race or balls parts way. Meaning, they have to very bad before you ever feel looseness. But the noise will likely be substantial. Unless a ball shatters with a catastrophic failure. Then you either have lock-up or noise.

 

[Capo79]

Thanks for your replies:thumbup:

I really was not sure whether it was the bearing or something else making that grinding noise, allthough I was 99% sure the sound came from inside the wheel. However, it seems it must have been something else.

Yesterday, coming home from work, I tried rolling the bike back and forth, and there was no noise what so ever. I really had inspected the chain and sprockets (front AND back), and I couldn't see any debris between the disc and caliper either... But now it's gone nevertheless, and the wheel spins more freely as well. Could it actually be the bearing(s) kind of "setting" into place or something? I wouldn't really think so, but can that happen?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for your replies:thumbup:

I really was not sure whether it was the bearing or something else making that grinding noise, allthough I was 99% sure the sound came from inside the wheel. However, it seems it must have been something else.

Yesterday, coming home from work, I tried rolling the bike back and forth, and there was no noise what so ever. I really had inspected the chain and sprockets (front AND back), and I couldn't see any debris between the disc and caliper either... But now it's gone nevertheless, and the wheel spins more freely as well. Could it actually be the bearing(s) kind of "setting" into place or something? I wouldn't really think so, but can that happen?

Bearings don't make noise generally when operating properly.

You probably had some crap inbetween the caliber and disc. If you have access to an air compresssor you can gently blow some air in the area of the caliber. A light stream of water (make sure the rotor is cold) would help clean any crap/build up out...

Make sure your brake pads aren't worn out and starting to scrape metal to metal either.

 

[Capo79]

Bearings don't make noise generally when operating properly.

You probably had some crap inbetween the caliber and disc. If you have access to an air compresssor you can gently blow some air in the area of the caliber. A light stream of water (make sure the rotor is cold) would help clean any crap/build up out...

Make sure your brake pads aren't worn out and starting to scrape metal to metal either.

This morning I went outside and spun the wheel back and forth with the bike on the paddock stand. That awful sound was back, just like that over night. I did this, just to make sure my assumptions about the bearing were correct as I was about to take a longer ride today. Still, I disregarded the probability of having a rear wheel lock-up, and went for the ride anyway. Now, coming home from this ride, I lifted the bike up on the stand once more, and guess what: no sound or grinding noise what so ever.

My theory is this: As long as the wheel is warm, the bearing has expanded just enough to keep it in place. When it's cold, there's more room for play, hence the noise.

Does this sound plausible at all? I guess I have to change bearings after all.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ I suspect not.

Pull the caliper and inspect the pads. Confirm the caliper slides freely (remove pads and place it over the rotor). Also confirm the piston will move freely by very very gently pushing the brake lever and then force the piston back into place. I'd bleed the rear while you're at it.

Lastly; clean and lube the chain. Lets eliminate the maintenance variables that could affect this. Has this bike ever been pressure washed or under water?

 

[ChevyFazer]

In most cases if a bearing is going bad and is making a noise (they dont always make a noise but will) it wouldnt matter if its cold or hot, but i guess its possible, have you had the wheel off recently before you started noticing this noise, and also have you ever tried to grease them

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

 

[Capo79]

^^ I suspect not.

Pull the caliper and inspect the pads. Confirm the caliper slides freely (remove pads and place it over the rotor). Also confirm the piston will move freely by very very gently pushing the brake lever and then force the piston back into place. I'd bleed the rear while you're at it.

Lastly; clean and lube the chain. Lets eliminate the maintenance variables that could affect this. Has this bike ever been pressure washed or under water?

I pressure washed the bike two days ago, but I noticed that sound before this. I am VERY concious about not pressure washing chain, bearings, radiator and other fragile elements. Further, there are no debris between the pads and disc, I'm 100% sure of that. The chain is freshly lubed, and both spockets and the chain was new last fall. The chain has correct tension as well. I do, however, ride in rainy weather, sometimes when it's pouring (which it has done a LOT this summer). I haven't lubed the bearings, but I will try that.

This really baffles me, as the difference between a warm and cold wheel is like night and day (and I know it shouldn't matter).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the bearings are making that much noise, you should be able to feel it just rotating each bearing once the wheel is off...

As for the rain, unless your driving constantly in 1.5' of water, slow, the rain shouldn't bother the bearings...

Bearings are cheap enough and if in any doubt, change them, their not worth a crash/injury.... 1.5 hours maybe to change out taking your time...

Also, +1 on checking the movement of the brake piston once its off. I would however, before pushing the piston back into the bore, CLEAN OFF ANY GREASE/contaminants on the piston so it doesn't get into the dust seal/ brake fluid seal. That will cause binding in the caliber/piston...

 

[4drfocus]

It sound like your brake caliper, my cousin's Ninja 250r was doing the same thing, turns out the caliper piston was stuck causing the brake pad to constantly grind on the rotor, check the rotor for scoring, or excessive wear.