What to Buy for Valve Adjustment

[JAZZ-n-FZ6]

So I am at the 26,600 mark and its time to check them valves. I'm not too worried about the job between the shop manual and the forum it appears pretty easy to check and just a little harder to replace any valves.

But before I dig into the innards of my beloved FZ I want to make sure I have what I need so she can be running in no time.

So I have noticed that the manual states you need a valve lapper tool to get the buckets out. Is this necessary or is there an off brand tool that anyone recommends because the Yamaha tools are outrageously over priced. Also I saw on the forum that some people have bought shim kits. I do not expect to need to do too many if any because I do not ride really hard so I was wondering is it really expensive to buy them individually. I am assuming I can buy different thickness shims from Yamaha?

Any advice where to buy that tool (if needed) or where's the best place to buy shims would be greatly appreciate.

Jeremy

 

[Motogiro]

Anything with a small suction cup should work. Should have em at any automotive supply. Depending on your experience, I would line up a partner with a little experience on this job. It's not that it's that complex but it's a more serious adjustment and having a friend hand you a beer always helps in the process....

 

[JAZZ-n-FZ6]

Haha thanks for the advice Cliff. I have rebuilt a head on a car, so I don't think it will be too much for me but I might take your advice just for the beer...

Also I have one other question. I was reading that the couple of guys who actually had to replace an exhaust shim were because they were on the lower limit. This DOESNT make sense to me. Why would it go down in the limit. As things wear it seems like there would be a bigger gap between the lifter and the cam lobe? Anyone know why it would get small as things wear? I just want to know this because it doesn't make sense to me and I hate not know why things happen the way they do.

 

[Motogiro]

Haha thanks for the advice Cliff. I have rebuilt a head on a car, so I don't think it will be too much for me but I might take your advice just for the beer...

Also I have one other question. I was reading that the couple of guys who actually had to replace an exhaust shim were because they were on the lower limit. This DOESNT make sense to me. Why would it go down in the limit. As things wear it seems like there would be a bigger gap between the lifter and the cam lobe? Anyone know why it would get small as things wear? I just want to know this because it doesn't make sense to me and I hate not know why things happen the way they do.

I would imagine because there would be wear at the seat of the valve head where it meets the head. This would close the gap at the tappet and cam lobe and eventually cause poor performance and burn the valve.

Good on the past experience! I'm no whiz at this but have been hanging around things that go boom bang for a while. I listen and look at stuff .Hahaha!

Have a god one!

 

[Cali rider]

You don't need a lapping tool, a small mechanics magnet will do the job very well...http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00941310000P?prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=

As far as shims, it just easier to have them on hand before you start the job IF you actually need them. In other words, what's more important to you, time or money?

Money= inspect first, by shims if needed.
Time= Buy shim kit, have on hand to complete job in one session.

Forum and personal experience shows that it is very unlikely that you will need to actually adjust any of the valves at the first service. If you do need to adjust be sure to have a calibrated 0-200 in/lbs. torque wrench in your possession to properly tighten the camshaft bearing journals after removal. I would also suggest replacing your sparkplugs at this time as they are very easy to reach with the valve cover removed.

Hopefully this helps.

 

[Shamus McFeeley]

I have a lot of extra shims from the FZ and other bikes, if you need one, let me know I can send them to you.