What is this? (Instrument Panel Question)

outasight20

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Hey all,

New FZ6 owner here. I love the bike so far! Upgraded from a Ninja 250 and the power is just unreal. Although I'm sure I will get used to it with time.

I have a question. When scrolling through the odometer and trip meters, there comes up one setting where it says "e: 970/1020" flashing between 970 and 1020 every second or two. So it goes odometer, trip 1, trip 2, then this e thing.

Anyone know what this is?

Also, the temperature that the digital readout gives, is that ambient temperature or what? Because it said 80 degrees and it was only about 60 in my garage.

Oh! another question. My bike had 13K miles on it. Should I replace the spark plugs? Manual says every 8K miles.
 

mave2911

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Yeah - it's a tach (little E to symbolise Engine)

Now, for your knowledge, if that is reading 1000ish after the bike is warm (say 10min ride), that means your idle is too low (and will make shifting harder on you and the bike)

Raise your idle via the idle adjust screw, on the LHS of the bike, sitting on it, until it reads between 1250 - 1350 and you'll find changes nicer.

Cheers,
Rick
 

mave2911

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Anyone know what this is?

Also, the temperature that the digital readout gives, is that ambient temperature or what? Because it said 80 degrees and it was only about 60 in my garage.

Oh! another question. My bike had 13K miles on it. Should I replace the spark plugs? Manual says every 8K miles.

The temp display is incoming air temp (engine is hotter than ambient, and if you read it in the garage, whilst it's sitting still, it will read higher.)

Unless your bike has Iridium plugs, yes, I'd recommend having them changed (as opposed to changing them yourself, unless you're feeling confident and are technically minded)

Changing spark plugs on those is a bitch, and only possible with the toolkit, as a standard spark plug socket wont fit.....

Cheers,
Rick
 

yamihoe

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the temp probe is inside the airbox, which as mentioned is heated by the engine.
+1 on upping the idle a tad, it really does help shifting.
:rockon:
 

outasight20

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Thanks for the help guys. I think I was looking at the engine rpm's while the engine was still relatively cold. I'll check today after work and adjust it as necessary.

About the spark plugs, I will try to change them myself. I am a mechanical engineer/grease monkey so I should be able to figure it out.

Finally, will the air intake temperature essentially be ambient temperature once riding? Or will it always be a bit hotter due to being inside the airbox.
 

mave2911

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About the spark plugs, I will try to change them myself. I am a mechanical engineer/grease monkey so I should be able to figure it out.

Finally, will the air intake temperature essentially be ambient temperature once riding? Or will it always be a bit hotter due to being inside the airbox.

If you can stand the length, there is a lot of good info here in this series - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP-6x5e5PdQ]yamaha fz6s fz6n sparkplugs pt1.wmv - YouTube[/ame]

Also, in my experience, when riding, the intake air temp is usually very close to ambient, and only raises a bit when standing still.

Cheers,
Rick
 

texcollect

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I believe that with the display set to ODO you just press and hold the reset button for a couple of seconds and both the speed and odometer change to Km.
 

outasight20

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I found it a lot easier to remove the radiator bolts and let the radiator settle on the hoses. (big hands)

Made access far easier.

Cheers,
Rick

Thanks for this tip. Would have been a pain in the ass without moving the radiator a bit. Even the one inch it moved made all the difference. Cylinder 1 was the hardest to access, but with a little determination I was able to do it. The other three were a piece of cake. Bike seems to idle a bit better and rev smoother, but that may just be placebo effect. Either way, I'm set for the next 8K miles.
 

mave2911

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Glad it went ok!

Next time, I recommend having a look at fitting NGK Iridium plugs (CR9EIX), as they last significantly longer, and they're only $20ea or so (in Oz, so cheaper in da States.) - makes not having to do it again for 30000mi or more!

Cheers,
Rick
 
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