Oranje
Custom Abuser
only if there's liter bikes around me...its all up to you with the clutch.
if i drop the clutch, i can leave liter bikes behind me.
if i drop the clutch, i can leave liter bikes behind me.
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What Idling RPM have you set your bike at?
- Thread starter Nelly
- Start date
H
HavBlue
Only if that liter bike rider is taking a snooze.......
I was referring to the primary engagement when you step down into 1st from neutral. At 1,500rpm that's going to be rough. At 1,320 mine is hard enough and especially when cold.
Oranje
Custom Abuser
If he's a weekend rider, then he'll be easy on the clutch and he'll barely get good torque at 11,000rpm's. We're better than that 
Yeah, it does drop a bit harder but not much more than 1260-1320, the factory spec (from what I remember).
Yeah, it does drop a bit harder but not much more than 1260-1320, the factory spec (from what I remember).
Oranje
Custom Abuser
It never hesitates from a light, it doesn't brake hard when i engine brake, and just 'feels' smoother, faster. I only started this around 20,000 miles. for the longest, I kept it at 1260 or lower. Now I want that power, quickness, even if it costs me a bit of gas.
H
HavBlue
Well sure it doesn't cause it thinks it's going 20mph while it's stopped. Even at 1,320 I have noticed a loss of range and mileage around areas that would be considered stop and go. There is no power difference, only a difference in available force being generated by the increased static rpm. Generally speaking this would be accomplished by the rider simply setting the launch rpm to the desired number and bam, he's out of there. Beyond this the engine idle is at spec. A bike uses a multi-plate clutch system much like that of the clutch packs associated with an automatic transmission. They drag as opposed to actually releasing like the standard transmission in a cage. Because of this when you go from neutral into first gear at a higher rpm it will generate a snap application and it will also take its toll over time.
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
The FZ6 is faster off the line than liter bikes now? Awesome...yamaha should put that in their marketing materials.
pchbreeze, I can picture you smoking those liter bikes at all those oily LA stop lights...lol. Seems like having such a high idle in city traffic would require MORE clutch work at the lowest of traffic crawling speeds.
pchbreeze, I can picture you smoking those liter bikes at all those oily LA stop lights...lol. Seems like having such a high idle in city traffic would require MORE clutch work at the lowest of traffic crawling speeds.
Oranje
Custom Abuser
dont put words in my mouth...i didn't say the bike is faster than liter bikes...i said I am because i ride every day and ride the hell out of my bike, and the guys on the coast hwy usually are weekend warriors who ease their clutch and dont even turn their throttle hard...neither do i to be honest, but i smoke a beetch here and there and i ride with fast liter bikes on a regular basis (elite riders).
bmccrary
Touring Mod
Dang...
Mine idles at around 980 to 1020... at point with just me on it, I can let out the clutch slowly with no gas and get it to start moving. If I am on a slight grade however I have to give a little juice, but not much. Now that I know where the idle screw is though, I might pick it up a bit for my trip with Jordan and gear on the back.
-bryan
Mine idles at around 980 to 1020... at point with just me on it, I can let out the clutch slowly with no gas and get it to start moving. If I am on a slight grade however I have to give a little juice, but not much. Now that I know where the idle screw is though, I might pick it up a bit for my trip with Jordan and gear on the back.
-bryan
OneTrack
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pchbreeze: You might be barking up the wrong tree with the idle set TOO high. You lose a lot of engine braking for a start, and cause a lot of unecessary wear on the gearbox and clutch, particularly when standing still or when moving in slow, stop-start traffic. There's a reason why it's called IDLE and not FAST IDLE.
If you want higher RPM when engaging the clutch, twist the throttle. That's what it's there for.
If you want higher RPM when engaging the clutch, twist the throttle. That's what it's there for.
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
I think you meant "liter bikes piloted by newbies", but I wouldn't want to put words in your mouth or anything...
At this point, I'm really not sure what you're talking about. Turning the idle up won't make your bike faster off the line and a the only thing that makes a 600 faster than a 1000 is rider skill (but I'm not sure how we starting talking about rider skills either).
If you want higher RPM when engaging the clutch, twist the throttle. That's what it's there for.
+1 but to each their own :thumbup:
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HavBlue
pchbreeze: You might be barking up the wrong tree with the idle set TOO high. You lose a lot of engine braking for a start, and cause a lot of unnecessary wear on the gearbox and clutch, particularly when standing still or when moving in slow, stop-start traffic. There's a reason why it's called IDLE and not FAST IDLE. If you want higher RPM when engaging the clutch, twist the throttle. That's what it's there for.
Man, I knew it was there for something besides resting my wrist. Your supposed to twist it? Dang, I gotta try that.. LMAO that was way cool one track and Soooo true...
KUMAJ
Member
Somehow, YAMAHA's injection system around idling seems like having factor or function like pilot jet or pilot air screws of the carb. I'm feeling higher idling solve or improve throttle on/off problem and soften the hard engine brake at close thlottle. Also I heard some rumor from people who has friends YAMAHA's R&D that idling fuel amount adjustment for Euro model (not US model) helps better (easier )thlottle work. CO value 4% is helped a lot in adjustment. Once set it up and turn on ignition again, catalizer and air induction system start to work and CO will be less than 1%. I wonder YAMAHA thought some margin for enviroment.
We should use it within 1250 rpm to 1350 rpm.
We should use it within 1250 rpm to 1350 rpm.
H
HavBlue
Engines traditionally don't run efficient at idle and this is where they are dirtiest. The faster they run, the cleaner they run hence the reason the outputs of smog will be reduced at a faster idle speed. I agree with the 1,250 to 1,350 range.
Kumaj San,
As always you come up with excellent technical advise backed by data. Top fella.
Neil
KUMAJ
Member
HavBlue-san,
I'd wanted to agree with you about idling speed is not efficient for actual riding. However, it is obvious that throttle on/off problem will disappear(or soften) at higher idling speed(correct setting). Somehow, I'd started thinking FZ6 idling adjustment influence something for fuel-air raito becoming rich like using larger pilot-jet of carb. My friends working in bikeshop having dyno and air-fuel raito measure and I'll inform it after there are some differences(higher idling and different smog setting) on A/F raito.
Perryn-san,
I'm not having confidence on my riding and, it become habit how compensate it. Of course, riding a lot and training helps me but, always my goal go higher when I improve something on my skill... ha ha ... It may be some spice of life. Or I'm just geek?? haha
Enjoy:Flash:
I'd wanted to agree with you about idling speed is not efficient for actual riding. However, it is obvious that throttle on/off problem will disappear(or soften) at higher idling speed(correct setting). Somehow, I'd started thinking FZ6 idling adjustment influence something for fuel-air raito becoming rich like using larger pilot-jet of carb. My friends working in bikeshop having dyno and air-fuel raito measure and I'll inform it after there are some differences(higher idling and different smog setting) on A/F raito.
Perryn-san,
I'm not having confidence on my riding and, it become habit how compensate it. Of course, riding a lot and training helps me but, always my goal go higher when I improve something on my skill... ha ha ... It may be some spice of life. Or I'm just geek?? haha
Enjoy:Flash:
H
HavBlue
HavBlue-san,
I'd wanted to agree with you about idling speed is not efficient for actual riding. However, it is obvious that throttle on/off problem will disappear(or soften) at higher idling speed(correct setting). Somehow, I'd started thinking FZ6 idling adjustment influence something for fuel-air ratio becoming rich like using larger pilot-jet of carb. My friends working in bike shop having dyno and air-fuel raito measure and I'll inform it after there are some differences(higher idling and different smog setting) on A/F ratio.
Enjoy:Flash:
Kumaj, the A/F ratio and gross emissions will probably remain very close in that range offered by the factory spec. The modern engine management systems have become quite acute and while the factory run programs do have bikes running lean to meet standards, the ECU does have the ability to make adjustments in the steady state operation. Where things tend to run high or low is during the sweep from idle to the desired test rpm. This can be observed in running the engine up slowly versus a quick run to the mark. I look forward to seeing your test results.
Thanks,
Charlie
I was wondering why I was stalling so much just when I thought I was getting a lot better at riding a bike a little past the 800 mile mark. I am not sure if I would trust myself just yet to changing mine but I have also noticed I have problems with throttle control depending on what gloves I am wearing.
I hate gloves-hate them- even when I am on cold scuba diving trips I refused to wear them. But now I make myself wear them to protect my hands in case I fall. I just cannot seem to find the right kind. Having the palm protection makes my hand start hurting after a while. I will leave this to another thread.
I hate gloves-hate them- even when I am on cold scuba diving trips I refused to wear them. But now I make myself wear them to protect my hands in case I fall. I just cannot seem to find the right kind. Having the palm protection makes my hand start hurting after a while. I will leave this to another thread.
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HavBlue
Gloves can mean everything to comfort so to me they qualify as being in the "you get what you pay for" category. I have no problem at all paying $100usd for a quality pair of gloves.
If your idle speed is below spec by any large margin you may find things like stalling and low speed throttle control to be an issue. Changing the rpm is really not difficult and there really isn't anything you could mess up as it will either raise or drop depending on which way you move the adjuster. Try it as it will only give you a new experience with your bike.
Mattberkshire
Super Member
I know what you mean about the gloves. My winter gloves reduce my control but my summer gloves, as worn yesterday (with heated grips) are Heine Gericke and have kangaroo skin palms. They are the dogs bollocks. I felt like a riding god after 3 months of numptiness:Sport:
I took me a good few months to get used to gloves when I first started riding.
Please persevere. The benefits outweigh the potential negatives like road rash.
Bikes are designed to be ridden with gloves on. The switch gear is chunky for that reason. There are times when I find that my hands get to warm and I really want to take my gloves off. I will often take to sets of gloves out with me especially as the weather starts to change. In the mornings its still cold so winter gloves are ok, when I come home from work its nice and warm so I put my summer gloves on.
Good Luck
Neil
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