Valve Clearances FZ6

[mave2911]

Hello, my fellow forum enthusiasts.

As I'm coming up to my 42000km 'Major Service' (most of which I'll be doing myself, due to budget constraints!) I have called around a few places to get quotes on checking my valve clearances.

A couple of places have quoted me $200 - $250 for checking the clearances, more if shims are needed. (but shouldn't be)

Two places, however, have said that most definitely the valves will need new shims, as Yamahas are known for it (esp. R6es). Once the clearances have been corrected, then it should be good for a while., at a cost of up to $460.

On here, though, I have seen many people say that no adjustment was necessary when THEY checked the FZ6 valve clearances.....

So, either the high-revving nature of the R6 engine means the clearances tighten up very quickly, or someone, somewhere, is telling porkies.....

The two places that said it'd DEFINITELY need to be done prepare bikes for track days and are a little more race oriented. They have a lower hourly charge (by $28/hr over the most expensive!) but are looking for more precision than the 17-20yr old mechanics at a couple of the others.

So, a poll is needed!

 

[Cali rider]

I have checked mine at 26000, 52000 and 75000 miles. I have never had to adjust any valve. In addition, on the latest check, every valve was in the middle of the tolerance range. Of course, every motor and owner is different so this only relates to my FZ. For example there are some members here that have had cam chain tensioner failures, but not me.

Checking them yourself is quite straight forward if you want to save the labor. A quick search will bring up a few threads with clear directions.

 

[PhotoAl]

I checked mine at 29,000 and they were OK. A few were a close to the loose side but none were on the tight side. I expect if a valve is within clearance tolerance it it OK for 26,000 more miles.

 

[stink989]

I have found (working at a Yamaha dealer) that Yamaha have heads and valves that work extremely well together and if the bike is looked after correctly the valves don't move very often at all.
I have seen motocross bikes flogged their whole life bouncing off the limiter and everything and they are still in spec after years of crappy treatment.
Road bikes are the same, have seen a few needing shims but not many for the amount we check at work (mostly fjr and tdms for some reason in my area)
I wouldn't be discouraged by the younger mechanics to much as long as they know their stuff and the place that does the race bikes, if it's good enough to leave the place and go get flogged to the outhouse after the work I would be confident getting the fz done there.

 

[Marthy]

Just pop the gas tank, airbox and valve cover off and look at them yourself. It is a very simple task. If you need to adjust them it's a little harder but since 95% of the time they are still within specs...

http://www.fz6r-forum.com/forum/f91/fz6r-valve-adjustment-24098/

Not a real "How too" but that would give you a good idea.

 

[nivag]

Mine were within tolerance at 26K miles and I rag the life out of it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just curious, the manual has you removing the throttle bodies to get the valve cover off. Is it necessary?

Also John (Cali rider), do you run your bike to red line often or some what more tame?


I suspect the R6's need adjustment more as the cams are more aggressive/harder on the valve train causing the need for more adjustments..

 

[Marthy]

Just curious, the manual has you removing the throttle bodies to get the valve cover off. Is it necessary?

Also John (Cali rider), do you run your bike to red line often or some what more tame?


I suspect the R6's need adjustment more as the cams are more aggressive/harder on the valve train causing the need for more adjustments..

It is necessary on the 6R, can't tell on the FZ6?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Haven't had it apart that deep as its not close to being checked(mileage).

The manual states they do need to be removed..

 

[Marthy]

Well, it's not any different than removing the airbox. On my ride all I needed to do is loosing up the 4 boots (3mm allen) then pop the throttle assembly out. All I had to do is move it out of the away... all the hose were still connected.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, it's not any different than removing the airbox. On my ride all I needed to do is loosing up the 4 boots (3mm allen) then pop the throttle assembly out. All I had to do is move it out of the away... all the hose were still connected.

Cool, thanks..

 

[Cali rider]

Just curious, the manual has you removing the throttle bodies to get the valve cover off. Is it necessary?

Also John (Cali rider), do you run your bike to red line often or some what more tame?


I suspect the R6's need adjustment more as the cams are more aggressive/harder on the valve train causing the need for more adjustments..

Hey Scott, no removal of the throttle bodies are necessary. As far as engine use, I am probably more conservative with the throttle than most other owners, so that might have some effect on the valve wear. However, I do run longer oil change intervals than most FZ6 owners, at least 8000 miles between oil/filter changes and have been using Castrol Power RS 10w-50 synthetic for the past 20000 miles.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hey Scott, no removal of the throttle bodies are necessary. As far as engine use, I am probably more conservative with the throttle than most other owners, so that might have some effect on the valve wear. However, I do run longer oil change intervals than most FZ6 owners, at least 8000 miles between oil/filter changes and have been using Castrol Power RS 10w-50 synthetic for the past 20000 miles.

Thanks John.

There's usually some short cuts from the manual, you confirmed it, thank you..

I'm pretty conservative as well and just changed over to Mobil One 4T full synthetic motorcycle oil as well at 13,000 miles. I was previously using Motul 5100 since 4,500 miles when I bought the bike... I spoke with a Mobil tech before purchasing the oil (it was between and Motul Full synthetic and Mobil). He stated it was good for 5,000 miles between changes so I'll be changing at 5,000 vs my used to be, 3,000 miles.

Thanks again all...

 

[Guitar Man]

Both the exhaust valves on the #3 and #4 were out of tolerance on mine. All four had too much gap. Usually the gap will close up. The only thing I can think of is they were set at the factory wrong, which seems to be a rare occurance since I'm the only one I know this has happened to. The bike did run better and was more responsive after I adjusted them. It may have been leaking a little on the compression stroke and loosing power.

You can never really know unless you check them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Both the exhaust valves on the #3 and #4 were out of tolerance on mine. All four had too much gap. Usually the gap will close up. The only thing I can think of is they were set at the factory wrong, which seems to be a rare occurance since I'm the only one I know this has happened to. The bike did run better and was more responsive after I adjusted them. It may have been leaking a little on the compression stroke and loosing power.

You can never really know unless you check them.

+1 on checking them.

I agree, they were either set loose at the factory as they usually tighten up with time/mileage. I wonder if any carbon buildup on the exhaust valve seats might have contributed to this being they were leaking some on the compression stroke (exhaust valves slightly open /not seated fully). Do you use any Seafoam, Yamaha Ringfree, etc at all?

Did you pull the FI bodies on your bike when you adjusted yours Guitar man?

 

[fazil]

Do you change the rocker gasket also when you open the valve cover?
Or is it reused?

 

[Cali rider]

Do you change the rocker gasket also when you open the valve cover?
Or is it reused?

I have reused every time and have no leaks of any kind. Just clean the aluminum surfaces and reinstall. You do NOT need any silicone sealant.

 

[regder]

I checked mine for the first time at ~84k km, so effectively what should have been the second check. They all checked in spec, one exhaust valve was .01 below, but I'm not going to bother for that.

I did take the throttle bodies off, don't know if it's needed, but mine were pretty much welded on, took a lot of prying to break them free. Reused the valve cover gasket as well, meant to order a replacement, but forgot. No leaks since thankfully.

While you're in there, not a bad idea to toss in a set of plugs if you're close to being due. You have direct access and need to take them out anyways.

 

[JTL]

Just checked mine yesterday at 42k km. All were somewhere in the middle range of the spec, no throttle body removal needed (loosening the radiator and removing the cooling fan gives the extra space needed to remove the valve cover) and I think the whole thing took about 3.5hrs total without keeping much hurry and changing the spark plugs at the same time. I reused the valve cover gasket as it seemed to be in a good condition.

 

[Guitar Man]

+1 on checking them.

I agree, they were either set loose at the factory as they usually tighten up with time/mileage. I wonder if any carbon buildup on the exhaust valve seats might have contributed to this being they were leaking some on the compression stroke (exhaust valves slightly open /not seated fully). Do you use any Seafoam, Yamaha Ringfree, etc at all?

Did you pull the FI bodies on your bike when you adjusted yours Guitar man?

I do run Seafoam throught the gas once in awhile. I'm thinking if there was any carbon buildup on the valves it probably wasn't much because it ran a little better after the adjustment.

I didn't pull the FI bodies. It never even crossed my mind to do that because they didn't look like they were in the way.