Valve adjustment $275, is it good price? Bellflower Motorsport

2007Z6ALL-LED

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I got a quote from one local shop (it's the place last time i went to for front tire replacement). They can do the Valve adjustment for $275 (maybe + some sim $$ if it's needed as for parts). It takes them 2 days for the work.

BTW, some SoCAL rider knows other good place to get valve adjustment in OC? (I live about 10 min from OC as in LA county). I don't mind to pay like $350-$400 as long as they're honest, mechanical competent, and skillful.

Why don't I do by myself? I'm not good in heavy mechanical skill ...others than that I can do most for my bike but not the engine.

Thx,
jh
 

VEGASRIDER

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It's a great price but it shouldn't take 2 days to do it, which sounds suspicious. It should only be around 4, maybe 5 hours of labor at a Yamaha dealership. While they have the heads open, you should also get your plug replaced. Also make sure they supply the figures of what your measurements were.

How many miles do you have on the bike? Most people on this forum who had their valves checked at 26k miles found that they were within specs. Not saying your will be, but for the majority it was still fine. FWIW, I had mine done at a Yamaha dealership, but it was also combined with a major repair so my cost would be not very good in comparison.
 

VEGASRIDER

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Do you have an owner's manual so that you know what the recommend service interval's our? If not, you can probably get the information here on this forum.

If you're not the original owner, @at 18k miles and being 2007, my only concern would be how old are the plugs? Maybe the battery. Other than that, you just keep a visual on the chain and sprockets, change your oil and filter every 3-4 thousand miles, etc.
 

ChanceCoats123

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I have to agree with what's been said above. You're a bit early, and most people have found their valve clearances to be within spec on the first check around 26k miles. With that said though, people (FinalImpact) have found their valvetrain was out of spec WELL before the maintenance interval. If your bike sounds and runs fine, I wouldn't spend the money so early before the 26k mile interval.
 

2007Z6ALL-LED

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I bought the bike when it was 9.5k, a year ago. I rode a year which brought it up to 18K this month.

I changed plugs, flush coolant, oil, replaced the battery with Shorai....etc and ride for commute 2hr/day only (no weekend fun ride :) )

I think mine should be fine at this time!

thank you all!
 

FinalImpact

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Anyone suspect of valve lash issues should/can use two basic methods to justify going in early, on-time, or even extending the interval.

Your ears and longer paper tube as it provides direction to sounds and you listen for a "tap tap tap" sound from the vavle cover area. I have a sound track before and after for reference. Tap noise indicates excessive clearance.

Next item is a vacuum gauge. Connect it to each TB sync port. In this case you want NO restrictors as you want a strong vacuum signal. Your looking for variation from cylinder to cylinder. Lets say the idling engine causes a greater needle swing fluctuation on 2 cylinders while at the same idle speed. Those two would be subject to valve lash being different than the rest.

Of course if all are out of spec you risk damage as you can't hear the tap of tappet which is too tight. Those burn valves and ruin engines. At that stage your vacuum needle will be swinging violently....

For most part the few members who posted their valve lash As Found values indicate INTAKES as stable/in spec, while the exhaust opens getter bigger and and the tap is audible. However, some get tight and this will ruin an engine if left and you can't hear it.

Hint: buying and using your OWN vacuum gauge and recording the details would be wise. Then you compare results over time. If it changes, you know it needs looked at regardless of miles...
 

MrMogensen

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Have no clue about price because I am nearly from a galaxy far far away...
But I wouldn't worry much about them saying they need 2 days for the job. Possibly they wouldn't spend that many hours, but still want to be sure that they can finish the job within expected time. In case they need spare-parts that's not in stock and so on...

I did the valve-check myself and honestly this first time wasn't too easy. If I didn't have the factory repair/service manual I wouldn't have done it.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Ah I see, mine is 2007 with 18K..

Bike sounds ok, no strange sounds, smooth...I guess it won't be checked after another year as my yearly mileage is 10k..

Thanks for the reply!

+1 on the above posts.

At 18,000 miles, if its quiet, running fine, your way below when its due, IMO, wait another year(or till its closer).

I suspect they want the bike for two days as it needs to be dead cold for an accurate check. Its not something they want a customer waiting on, literally several hours later.


I may have sent you the owners manual as a PDF. If not, PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send it to you..It has all the scheduled maintainance in it...
 

FZSexy

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I bought the bike when it was 9.5k, a year ago. I rode a year which brought it up to 18K this month.

I changed plugs, flush coolant, oil, replaced the battery with Shorai....etc and ride for commute 2hr/day only (no weekend fun ride :) )

I think mine should be fine at this time!

thank you all!

i think you should be fine. my bike sounds similar to yours. i bought mine almost a year ago with 6700 miles on the odo and it now has 14,700 miles, also a daily rider. i am changing my plugs soon and i too replaced my coolant and of course the oil. i just had my first "breakdown" with a dead battery. lesson learned for me was change the battery once a year. my mechanic will pop one in for $75 and inspect the charging system, too. that is a cheap way not to get stranded like i did

i am going to get an "intermediate" service done for things i can't check myself, or at least something close to make sure all is right and tight, and change the plugs, too. but the valve check? all seems well so i am going to run it to the service interval unless the bike is acting up or making funny noises. but it isn't. like your own it just goes and goes and goes. and with the new battery it fires up like never before! seems like a new bike when i hit the button

i am SO HAPPY with my motorcycle! :cheer:
 
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2007Z6ALL-LED

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i think you should be fine. my bike sounds similar to yours. i bought mine almost a year ago with 6700 miles on the odo and it now has 14,700 miles, also a daily rider. i am changing my plugs soon and i too replaced my coolant and of course the oil. i just had my first "breakdown" with a dead battery. lesson learned for me was change the battery once a year. my mechanic will pop one in for $75 and inspect the charging system, too. that is a cheap way not to get stranded like i did

i am going to get an "intermediate" service done for things i can't check myself, or at least something close to make sure all is right and tight, and change the plugs, too. but the valve check? all seems well so i am going to run it to the service interval unless the bike is acting up or making funny noises. but it isn't. like your own it just goes and goes and goes. and with the new battery it fires up like never before! seems like a new bike when i hit the button

i am SO HAPPY with my motorcycle! :cheer:

:) yep, I changed my battery too after I got the bike about 1 month as battery was dead. It was lucky that my company has a tramp so I just took it to that tramp and put to 3rd gear and rolled :). It was the original battery with the bike and it had its times!

So don't spend $$ to check on the "charging system" (stators/alternator). It might be out later but unlikely 14K unless very very unfortunate might find your bike.

Not sure if you already bought the batter, I bought the Shorai LFX18A1 and it's all good! (my bike is lighter maybe 4lbs because that Shorai battery is only 2.3lbs)

Happy riding, and ride safe!!
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re the battery, if you pick up / borrow a volt meter, the charging system is very easy to check yourself.

Simply start the bike, put the volt meter on the positve and negative terminals of the battery. At idle you'll likely see about 13 volts. Hold the RPM's at 4-5,000 RPM's (for 3-4 seconds) and the voltage should be about 14 volts. Done...

*Note, if you notice your dash lights dimming, or clock re-setting WHILE CRANKING, its a sign of the battery failing (or needing a charge).
 

Motogiro

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:) yep, I changed my battery too after I got the bike about 1 month as battery was dead. It was lucky that my company has a tramp so I just took it to that tramp and put to 3rd gear and rolled :). It was the original battery with the bike and it had its times!

So don't spend $$ to check on the "charging system" (stators/alternator). It might be out later but unlikely 14K unless very very unfortunate might find your bike.

Not sure if you already bought the batter, I bought the Shorai LFX18A1 and it's all good! (my bike is lighter maybe 4lbs because that Shorai battery is only 2.3lbs)

Happy riding, and ride safe!!

We have a great resource here on this forum when you have a problem with your bike. A few minutes of searching can yield a great amount of valuable information and trouble shooting experience as apposed to guessing and spending money for the non offending device. Mileage has very little to do with many electronic component failures. Many electronic components are faulty or mistreated before failure.
The other factor is we have so many experienced tech and service people here that gladly help with these problems. My next door neighbor just did this with his bike. He bought a new battery and then had to replace the regulator/rectifier. Took me 5 minutes to tell him what was wrong. :)
 
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7UPyours

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my understanding is that the engine has to be cold in case parts need to be replaced so maybe that's why they need the extra day since I am sure you were going to ride your bike there
 

VEGASRIDER

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Since I'm not a wrencher I find myself getting a lot of work done at a shop. I find it convienent to drop it off when they are about to close and leave the bike overnight so that they can get to it first thing in the morning and my service would be completed by the next morning or by noon at the latest
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Since I'm not a wrencher I find myself getting a lot of work done at a shop. I find it convienent to drop it off when they are about to close and leave the bike overnight so that they can get to it first thing in the morning and my service would be completed by the next morning or by noon at the latest

For all the riding you do, I'm kinda surprised you don't do own wrenching (or at least a good part of it). I gather you've found a good mechanic / shop you trust.

Agreed thou, leaving the bike overnight, so the mechanic is "FRESH" in the am and NOT in a hurry is the way to go (if leaving the bike).
 

FinalImpact

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i think you should be fine. my bike sounds similar to yours. i bought mine almost a year ago with 6700 miles on the odo and it now has 14,700 miles, also a daily rider. i am changing my plugs soon and i too replaced my coolant and of course the oil. i just had my first "breakdown" with a dead battery. lesson learned for me was change the battery once a year. my mechanic will pop one in for $75 and inspect the charging system, too. that is a cheap way not to get stranded like i did

i am going to get an "intermediate" service done for things i can't check myself, or at least something close to make sure all is right and tight, and change the plugs, too. but the valve check? all seems well so i am going to run it to the service interval unless the bike is acting up or making funny noises. but it isn't. like your own it just goes and goes and goes. and with the new battery it fires up like never before! seems like a new bike when i hit the button

i am SO HAPPY with my motorcycle! :cheer:

FWIW: Battery, Coolant, and spark plugs all come out during valve check so you'll be paying for this twice. It is also a good time to remove and inspect the spark plug cap to wire connection. ANYONE Complaining of VIBRATIONS should have the cap to wire fit inspected.
HINT: I'd guess a basic tune up WOULD NOT include this as its not well known that "its an issue" AND THAT its so simple to Correct!!! It applies specifically to our "Waste Spark" ignition system.

Air filter is optional too - there is no rule that says you have to open the air box to remove it.

AGAIN - your bike doesn't have to be due for Valve Adjustment to need it. But some will need it and it also helps remove a layer of vibrations that will make the whole chassis even smoother!

Lastly - the audible TAP. This "Tap Tap Tap" is the sound the cam to valve makes when there is too much clearance! PS - 15,000 miles ahead of Schedule Interval too!
2014-04 walk around for Valve Tick; 48 Secs total.
Taps can easily be heard in the first 12 seconds and last 8 seconds. --> SoundCloud MP3 Cam lash taps (before adj)...
 

deeptekkie

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Sounds steep to me. While I am NOT recommending you skip this maintenance I have to agree with VEGASRIDER.
A friend of mine is a certified mechanic and he told me that he had never seen a Fazer yet that needed a valve adjustment! He said that he had seen two that were at their maximum limit but were still within spec. JMO
 
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