Turbo time. Seriously.

killernoodle

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So I've had my FZ6 for 9 years now. Honestly, I'm getting a little bored with it. After seeing the resale price for this bike though, it's pretty apparent that it's not worth selling and upgrading. So to spice things up a little, I've decided to put a little pep in the motor.

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First things first though, the bike has been sitting for a solid year outside without moving, collecting spiders, rainwater, hail, leaves, etc. So the whole bike is being taken apart and given a good once-over. The fork seals and chain were the obvious problem areas, as they were both rusty and gross. So the R6 forks are getting a rebuild, as are the brakes, steering head bearings, etc. Basically this thing will be like new again when I'm done.

kO2x4na.jpg


So on to the more important bits, starting with the airbox. I used the stock airbox as a pattern for an aluminum one. I'm going to reuse the rubber velocity stacks and glue them into the new airbox as soon as the correct size hole saw comes in. I tried to keep the volume of the airbox up to make sure the throttle bodies were getting the same amount of air and the off-boost driveability wouldn't be affected too much.

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I made a log manifold out of some stainless elbows and Ts from mcmaster. I accidentally ordered 1" instead of 1.25" sch 10 pipe, so the ports are just a tad smaller than stock, but it shouldn't be a problem since I'm running a turbo anyways. It just made welding them to the stock header flange a little more interesting.

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The turbo is a Toyota CT20 from a Supra's 2JZ stock twin setup. One thing I figured out quite quickly is the turbine housing is actually stainless steel. Who would have guessed?! So I'm going to weld it directly to the log manifold after some trimming to reduce the weight and bulk a little bit.

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I'm looking to run 8psi on the stock computer, and run a power commander to add extra fuel. R1 injectors and fuel pump should be sufficient for the power I'm looking to make. I'll probably get new clutch discs and heavier clutch springs to hold the extra power. I'll most likely be running a PLX DM6 gauge next to the stock gauge because I can have both a boost sensor module and a wideband sensor module on the same gauge face.

I'm going with a MT-03 style headlight instead of the worn out Acerbis Cyclops I've had on there for about 7 years. I'll also be ditching the Laser Quad exhaust and running an open dump since the exhaust will become a restriction and hinder spool. That means reconfiguring the tail somewhat to make it a little bit sleeker.
 
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motojoe122

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Finally, someone adding a turbo that knows what they are doing! Can't wait to see how it turns out:thumbup:
 

beatle

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Not knowing exactly how a Power Commander works, I'm curious if it has the ability to reduce fueling from those bigger injectors. In my experience with piggyback fuel control on my Miata, you can always increase fueling, but not reduce it. Or is the stock ECU good enough to trim those bigger injectors or just idle rich?
 

kenh

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Well, I guess you have been quite busy. I'll be interested to hear how the engine responds after turbo spinup. Best of luck with your project. :thumbup:
 

FZ09Bandit

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May the force induction be with you.... Always...

Seems like you have a good plan setup. You have no idea how many people work so hard to turbo something and flat out neglect the fueling. My rule was to go a tad but bigger than needed so you're not maxing out the injectors all the time.



Keep us posted!
 
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killernoodle

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Don't forget to check your valves "while you're in there."

Awesome stuff.

No doubt. At 40+k, I'm about due for another check.


beatle said:
Not knowing exactly how a Power Commander works, I'm curious if it has the ability to reduce fueling from those bigger injectors. In my experience with piggyback fuel control on my Miata, you can always increase fueling, but not reduce it. Or is the stock ECU good enough to trim those bigger injectors or just idle rich?

Yeah, the power commander can adjust the fueling in both directions. So if the injectors are 50% larger, I should be able to adjust the base map by dropping it 50%. There is an analog input on the power commander that would connect to the PLX boost gauge's output and read the boost level and adjust fueling for boost.

This is epic. Can't wait to see how it turns out. What numbers are you aiming for? At 8 PSI, I would expect 120+ WHP

With the filter and exhaust, it dynoed at 91. I expect with a 50%+ more air, I should see probably 130-140.
 
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FinalImpact

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Although i love the idea of moding and the notion of fitting a Turbo, the 2JZ was a 3.0 liter and I'm concerned its way too big for the application. Both the CT20 and CT12 are commonly used on 2 liter engines and they both share the same exhaust housing size IIRC.
Just guessing about the application yours came from as there are several variants of the 2JZ but they also did a sequential turbo setup with a smaller and larger turbos. Is the CT20 the smaller one??
I don't recall the sizes. What I do know is there a many using these turbo's on engines 3x the size of ours. The concern here is you will not obtain the pressure needed even while at WOT as you have much less exhaust volume moving through it. This would equate to huge lag. I really want you to be successful and suggest you find sizing chart that's applicable for this situation. Also, how much oil volume does it need to keep it cool and can the FZ oil pump handle the fluid loss? IDK?

PS - Way back when I put about 250 miles on a Yamaha 650 Seca. Nothing beats unexpected Boosties in a corner! lol Some info here .. .. .. Motorcycle Specs
 

killernoodle

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This was my thought process for choosing the CT20: it was free.

Second thought: spares come in pairs off of supras, I know a few guys with supras, and everyone gets rid of them.

Third thought: the stock 2JZ-GTE that they come from makes about 276 horsepower when boosted at about 8psi. So each turbo is flowing about 138 horsepower worth of air. On the stock 2JZ, they spool up pretty quickly as they are tiny turbos. So if my FZ6 can flow 90hp worth of air, 8psi would be about 130-140hp, and should start spooling at about the same percentage of the rev range as the supra.

Think about it like this:
Bike
600CC
14k redline

Car
3,000CC
6,800 redline

Each turbo on the car handles 1,500 CC of the 2JZ displacement
Turbos are at full boost by 3000rpm probably.

Since the bike has a smaller displacement, it'll take more revs to spool the turbo, but it's got twice the rev limit. So if the car's 1,500CC displacement has the motor boosting at 3,000 rpm, then the 600CC bike will probably need 2.5x the RPMs to flow that same air. So we're looking at about 7,500 rpms. I can live with the turbos getting happy at 7,500 rpms.
 

FinalImpact

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This was my thought process for choosing the CT20: it was free.

Second thought: spares come in pairs off of supras, I know a few guys with supras, and everyone gets rid of them.

Third thought: the stock 2JZ-GTE that they come from makes about 276 horsepower when boosted at about 8psi. So each turbo is flowing about 138 horsepower worth of air. On the stock 2JZ, they spool up pretty quickly as they are tiny turbos. So if my FZ6 can flow 90hp worth of air, 8psi would be about 130-140hp, and should start spooling at about the same percentage of the rev range as the supra.

Think about it like this:
Bike
600CC
14k redline

Car
3,000CC
6,800 redline

Each turbo on the car handles 1,500 CC of the 2JZ displacement
Turbos are at full boost by 3000rpm probably.

Since the bike has a smaller displacement, it'll take more revs to spool the turbo, but it's got twice the rev limit. So if the car's 1,500CC displacement has the motor boosting at 3,000 rpm, then the 600CC bike will probably need 2.5x the RPMs to flow that same air. So we're looking at about 7,500 rpms. I can live with the turbos getting happy at 7,500 rpms.

I wrote few things in and removed them before posting having to to do volume, RPM, and Displacement, thinking you wouldn't take this on on a whim. But ya, "free" plays a roll in the equation so the rest is a blessing if it works! And I hope it all works out for you!!
 

Marthy

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Turbo selection is actually quite tricky. Garrett turbo if I remember well have a nice only turbo selector tool. It is quite more technical than banging a turbo you get at the scrap yard for cheap. LOL

Ask Mr. Helmut on the FZ1 forum. He went through it and got his FZ1 sort out

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

beatle

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Each turbo on the car handles 1,500 CC of the 2JZ displacement
Turbos are at full boost by 3000rpm probably.

Since the bike has a smaller displacement, it'll take more revs to spool the turbo, but it's got twice the rev limit. So if the car's 1,500CC displacement has the motor boosting at 3,000 rpm, then the 600CC bike will probably need 2.5x the RPMs to flow that same air. So we're looking at about 7,500 rpms. I can live with the turbos getting happy at 7,500 rpms.

I think that would be true if the turbos were run in parallel. With a sequential turbo setup the second turbo doesn't start to spool until the first is singing and a specified RPM range or boost is reached, then it kicks in.

Twin-turbo - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Will you use the R1 fuel pressure regulator as well or will the FZ6 regulator do the job?
 
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