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TPS Range

REO Scorpio

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Just (randomly) looked at my TPS in Diag and saw that at closed it reads 16 and WOT 102 or 103 (which is out of the 97-100 range)

Is this a problem? The bike was just in for the 4k service last week and also had the throttle bodies synced.

Again, did this randomly, wasn't experiencing any new symptoms.

Scorp
 
When they replaced the TPS in my FJR I had another problem (corrosion in a main wire harness under the gas tank) that was unknown at the time. Yamaha suggested to the dealer adjusting the TPS higher (didn't help as it wasn't the problem) however with the higher TPS #'s, the computer thinks the throttle is open slightly more than it actually is, richening up the mixture slightly...

So no, the bike should be fine, tends to help get rid of the leaness on the lower end.....
 
When they replaced the TPS in my FJR I had another problem (corrosion in a main wire harness under the gas tank) that was unknown at the time. Yamaha suggested to the dealer adjusting the TPS higher (didn't help as it wasn't the problem) however with the higher TPS #'s, the computer thinks the throttle is open slightly more than it actually is, richening up the mixture slightly...

So no, the bike should be fine, tends to help get rid of the leaness on the lower end.....
Townsends,

Thanks as always for the info. I was actually worried of running lean, so I guess I'll take it :)

Just curious if it was something I should go back about or just mention it next time I am in there.

Scorp
 
Most manufacturers have their bikes set as lean as possible for emisions. You can mention it to them, I doubt they'll re-adjust it. If it bothers you, have them set it back a little.

With it re-adjusted to higher #'s, the computer thinks the throttle is open just a litle bit more and add's fuel (again, just a little) thinking the throttle is slightly open.

My FJR used to surge (from being lean) quite a bit under 3k (steady throttle), its about gone now. Personally, I leave it that way, it'll run better. With that said, I never changed the CO settings on either the FZ6 or my FJR...

The main thing with the TPS is that the #'s don't skip around or are missing any in-between (when SLOWLY opening/closing the throttle).
 
Numbers roll perfect through thrventire range, no jumping or skipping whatsoever.


I wish I checked it earlier to see if it changed somehow. Maybe with the service.
 
They may have adjusted it at that time, but when doing the carb sync, its a separate procedure and unless there's a problem, probably wouldn't have checked the TPS...

I'd call and ask them, its your bike. I'd want to know what exactly was done. To adjust the TPS does take some time, the shop generally won't mess with something unless specificallly asked and probably wouldn't adjust it out on purpose. Mine was adjusted richer (per Yamaha Headquarters) as I had a problem they couldn't find (after replacing a re-called TPS and a paid for throttle sync).
 
I doubt they would have touched it. With the throttle sync and 4k I was charged for two hours.

If it's not a huge issue then I'm not going to worry about it. For once, I'm going to just ride!

Scorp
 
An update to this thread for some more advice...

My TPS range in Diag is, and always has been, 16-103. I had called the dealer back in 09 after getting the bike and the service department told me as long as there weren't any big jumps in the range it was not an issue (also stated by a few members here).

Well, I was checking my TB sync and figured I'd pull the airbox to measure the resistance. Using my multimeter with the setting at 2KΩ, the "maximum" resistance showed 1.889 and the range resistance was .3556 to 1.655.

In the manual, it states using ΩX1k setting (which mine doesn't have) that the values should be 4-6 kΩ and 0 to 3.5-6.5kΩ.

Searching around, it seems that my setting on the multimeter is just the threshold and the numbers should correlate, but they clearly don't. :)

Anyone else have any data from their TPS or can shed some light? Otherwise, I will have to drop her off at the dealer. I have the Y.E.S. but I don't know if it will be covered.

Thanks, as always, for any help...

Scorpio
 
What meter do you have? If it only reads to 2k ohms, you need a different meter. Most anything made these days should be capable from Zero ohms to 10k ohms so you might want clean all the probe tip connections and make certain you have a good connection at the TPS.

Before you begin your test, touch the probes together and take reading. The value displayed should be subtracted from the value measured at the TPS. I understand this doesn't help your question but you should get the numbers listed.

Did something change? Is it running differently these days?
 
What meter do you have? If it only reads to 2k ohms, you need a different meter. Most anything made these days should be capable from Zero ohms to 10k ohms so you might want clean all the probe tip connections and make certain you have a good connection at the TPS.

Before you begin your test, touch the probes together and take reading. The value displayed should be subtracted from the value measured at the TPS. I understand this doesn't help your question but you should get the numbers listed.

Did something change? Is it running differently these days?

This is the digital I have and use...

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXWA/ref=aw_d_iv_automotive?is=l"]Equus 3310 Hands-Free Digital Multimeter:Amazon:Automotive[/ame]

I zeroed it out and have used it for other sensors on the bike that checked out according to their respective scales.

I took various measurements directly off the connector throughout the morning, and all were the same as above.

:(

Thanks for the help.

Scorpio
 
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