TPS and engine light

[Plymothian]

Hi all,

I have the 2004 FZ6 Fazer, the engine light started coming on intermittently and then going off a couple weeks ago and when I went into diagnostic mode it said it was the TPS. The history shows it had it replaced under the recall in 2006 but I phoned the dealer (1 month warranty remaining) so they replaced it for free yesterday.

Anyway, the light is still coming on and off, same as before.

Could it be that the diagnostics have not been "reset" so it's still flagging up, or could it be somehting else? The bike hasn't been affected at all, I'm still getting reasonable MPG (46) and it idles at 1300 all day, never had any faulty TPS symtoms apart from the warning light.

Should I get the dealer to check it again? I'm just conscious that if I eventually come to sell it and it's not sorted then it might worry a potential buyer. BUt I don't want to keep taking it back as it's a massive inconvenience as it's my only bike and need it for work.

Any advise welcome !

thanks,

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can re-set the computers electrrical system by simply disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes.

I don't think thats the issue, but it won't hurt to try.

If that doesn't fix it, you can check the TPS manually. The directions are at the top of the "Tech section".

If that doesn't fix it, bring it back and see what's going on with it, if they can check for any fault codes..


http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ou-experiencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html

 

[Plymothian]

Thanks Scott,

So am I right in assuming that the fault code for TPS is saying "TPS ranges (15 - 100 IIRC) are out"? I just thought the fault code meant the TPS was fooked? makes sense what you say, as I wasn't having any TPS symptoms.

I'll give the battery reset and TPS ranges a go

Cheers

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Scott,

So am I right in assuming that the fault code for TPS is saying "TPS ranges (15 - 100 IIRC) are out"? I just thought the fault code meant the TPS was fooked? makes sense what you say, as I wasn't having any TPS symptoms.

I'll give the battery reset and TPS ranges a go

Cheers

Your welcome.

But no, the TPS range can be above or below those #'s (higher #'s richened the mixture slightly) besides the high and low #'s (without tripping any lights), most importantly is checking the #'s in between. Using the throttle, and moving it slowly, there should be NO missing #'s in between, No skipping of #'s, etc. A bad TPS can still pass the above test. From what's been posted here, an oscilliscope can find if the TPS is good or not. Checking the voltage per the manual is firstly recommended

If your bike is running fine (short of the check light), idles fine, etc, the issue probably isn't the TPS.

Just as a side note, when I had my old 04 FJR and had some issues under warranty, mama Yamaha had the local Yamaha shop bump the TPS higher (the bike was very lean below 3,000 RPM stock). That wasn't the issue but the higher # was closer to 104. Its pretty much telling the ECU the throttle is open farther than it actually is, slightly richening up the A/F ratio (which that bike needed anyway). Never had a engine light come on on either that bike or my crrent FZ.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might unplug the connector and with a volt meter between these locations:
* the batteries positive (+) and the TPS ground, verify it shows battery voltage.
* the batteries negative (-) and the TPS Power, verify it shows battery voltage.

Colors for the TPS are:
Black/Blue trace = Ground
Blue = Switched Power
Yellow = Data or signal

In DC volts you cant harm it if you pick the wrong lead, it just wont show any voltage. And you'll need the key on for TPS (+ PWR) power test, Run switch = RUN.
Also I'd wiggle and move the wires while testing. It should remain stable other than battery voltage decay. Connections should be clean with nothing growing.

 

[Plymothian]

I think I may have made a monumental error. I went into diagnostic mode and the first code that came up was the one for TPS. Do I have to scroll through them all or will the culpret show first? I hope I haven't got the TPS replaced if it wasn't actually that

 

[FinalImpact]

I think I may have made a monumental error. I went into diagnostic mode and the first code that came up was the one for TPS. Do I have to scroll through them all or will the culpret show first? I hope I haven't got the TPS replaced if it wasn't actually that

Yes, you have to scroll. They display in order from lower or lowest number to highest. It IS NOT by level fault, last fault, or severity.

So best bet is to clear them and see what comes of it.

Also, colors for the TPS are:
Black/Blue trace = Ground
Blue = Switched Power
Yellow = Data or signal

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Once you do get to checking the TPS #'s themselves, yes, you do have to slowly roll the throttle up and down.

Watch ALL the NUMBERS, again, for any skipping, missing, both up and down, etc. Shouldn't take long to do, just some patience.

 

[Plymothian]

ok, I finally got the workshop manual to try and see what was causing the engine management light to come on. It wasn't the TPS (which I had replaced anyway), but it was the code 46 "insufficient voltage to fuel injector" (if that's right?). I took the bike for a long ride (3 hours) and it hasn't come on again since.

My question is - might the battery be on it's way out? My guess is the battery/generator wasn't kicking out enough so the engine light was coming on, but when I took it for a long ride it charged the battery enough so that the fuel injector was getting enough voltage? Or am I completely wrong?

I haven't put the battery on charge yet - it still has a few weeks warranty left on it so didn't want to take it apart to charge the battery in case I did something to void the warranty.

Any thoughts appreciated.

thanks,

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok, I finally got the workshop manual to try and see what was causing the engine management light to come on. It wasn't the TPS (which I had replaced anyway), but it was the code 46 "insufficient voltage to fuel injector" (if that's right?). I took the bike for a long ride (3 hours) and it hasn't come on again since.

My question is - might the battery be on it's way out? My guess is the battery/generator wasn't kicking out enough so the engine light was coming on, but when I took it for a long ride it charged the battery enough so that the fuel injector was getting enough voltage? Or am I completely wrong?

I haven't put the battery on charge yet - it still has a few weeks warranty left on it so didn't want to take it apart to charge the battery in case I did something to void the warranty.

Any thoughts appreciated.

thanks,

Check, with a voltmeter, the voltage at the battery static (turned off) and also at idle and at say 5,000 RPM's. You should see 12.8 volts (at least) static, 13 + up from idle and close to 14 volts at 2500-5,000 RPM's. If you are, your charging systm is fine.

If your dash lights dim, when cranking the engine to start, its a sign the battery is failing. A voltage drop to below 10 volts (cranking) is a poor mans battery load test.

To properly check the battery, it should be pulled, fully charged and load tested. Most auto parts stores will check it for free...

 

[FinalImpact]

You might take a look at post # 6 of this thread. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...mpact-trouble-shooting-maintenance-guide.html

Its not uncommon for the ECM to display one of these should the battery voltage drop during cranking....

46 Vehicle system power supply (Monitoring voltage)
Power supply to the fuel injection system is not normal.

Er-1 ECU internal malfunction (output signal error)
No signals are received from the ECU.

====================================

From that, if it was sitting for a bit or the battery is well aged and/or had been sitting for a months without use, it can sulfate and lead to the condition you found.

 

[Plymothian]

Thanks for the advice, I can't see in the bikes history when the battery was bought, so it might be that it's on it's way out. I have no trouble with dimming dash lights or anything but I have noticed in the last couple of months it cranks over a few times before it starts, whereas when I first got it it started within a split second of touching the start button.

The light has started to come on again now, so I think I'll just leave it (as it goes off when I slow down at lights, or come to a stop. Doesn't seem like a big issue but it's just annoying having alight on!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the advice, I can't see in the bikes history when the battery was bought, so it might be that it's on it's way out. I have no trouble with dimming dash lights or anything but I have noticed in the last couple of months it cranks over a few times before it starts, whereas when I first got it it started within a split second of touching the start button.

The light has started to come on again now, so I think I'll just leave it (as it goes off when I slow down at lights, or come to a stop. Doesn't seem like a big issue but it's just annoying having alight on!

The initial dimming of the dash will be the worst when the bike has been sitting, NOT on a charger, preferably overnight (some time sitting). You'll see the dash back round light, NOT GO OUT (un-less really bad), but simply flicker ever so slightly as the starter turns..