hammerheadshadow
Junior Member
AS Promised I am starting to publish my works on motorcycling.
What are your two most important parts in your motorcycle? You might think it is the engine size and cool fairings that give your sport bike a cool head turning killer looks. No your two most important items upon which your survival depends are your
1. Tires.
2. Brakes.
Chain, amount of engine oil, engine condition, electrical (your blinkers) are very , computer, frame and secure points of attachment (nuts, bolts-not loose) are important too.
But let’s say your chain rips during the ride For chain rip the number #1 cause is improperly connected master link. Also chain being too loose or too tight!), then you will most likely ruin your transmission as a wrapped up chain on the engine sprocket will take all of the transmission gears. Well, this unpleasant and very scary event would actually free up the rear wheel enabling you to roll off the road. Same goes for the stuck (no oil, either leaked or not changed!) or blown engine, but you can still roll off the road by disengaging the engine with clutch lever even while being totally immersed in the plumes of smoke. The bottom line here is that you have probably ruined your bike and will have some very expensive repairs in the near future but you WILL STAY on the road.
Now just to give you a heads up example. One veteran biker had neglected this simple and yet absolutely crucial rule (should I say make it a law for yourselves to have the best tires for the bike, do not save money on them!) and went on the road with worn out front tire. He pushed his luck and happened to hit the oily patched (I’ve personally managed not just to hit those sleek oily spots leaked from cars/trucks engines, but to park the bike right in the middle of them at the intersections and nearly fall off as my feet were unable to gain any “traction” and started sliding all over. Quite uneasy feeling I must say). Well to make the story short that veteran hit an oily patch and that caused a bike to swerve, bike hit the curb, went over it (airborne) and sent the veteran rider straight in the telephone pole. Veteran biker also sported a helmet on his head and nothing else to protect him on the body. He said he tried to relax as his flying towards the pole and pulled his hand in towards the chest. Well the result was broken ribs and broken wrist. Now he has steel rods inside his wrist which hold it together. Probably not very convenient for him as he does construction for a living. This is straightforward case of rubber neglect.
1. Air It Out: Check tire pressure every chance you get. There's probably no simpler procedure that's more important and more ignored by bikers of every stripe. The air, not the carcass, supports the bike, and underinflation is a tire's number one enemy. (Make sure the tires are cool when you take the reading.) For a better traction in wet conditions, increase pressures by about 10 percent. Unsure of what the pressure is supposed to be? Look for a sticker somewhere on the bike. It is also probably on the VIN (serial number) plate hear the steering head with the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) and gross axle weight ratings (GAWR) information.
2. Step in Line: Pay close attention to alignment--shaft drive bikes have no adjustment, but if you have a chain or belt, check the position of your tires. Proper alignment ensures better handling and longer wear.
3. Steady, Now: Although it primarily affects handling, improper balance can also shorten a tire's life. Check it after 500 or 1000 miles of use.
4. Top It Off: The valve stem cap should be securely fastened on the stem, because it's an important part of your tire's sealing system. It'll give you extra security at high speeds, when centrifugal force can conspire to open the valve inside the stem.
5. Soap It Up: Most tire manufacturers recommend that the only substance used to keep rubber shiny should be good old soap and water. Many alleged protectants actually promote premature cracking and finish deterioration. Make sure you wipe off any lube, brake fluid or gas promptly, too.
6. Look Before You Crank: Before you saddle up, take a moment to visually inspect your tires. We can't tell you how many times we've pulled out screws or nails before a ride, thus preventing almost certain tire failure. Once you're on the road, it'll be too late.
7. Stay Smooth: This is common sense--avoid potholes and sharp objects on the road that can compromise your tire's integrity. The same goes for curbs.
8. Don't Mix and Match: Never run two tires of differing construction. We can't stress this enough, and this rule applies to bias-plies vs. radials as well as tubeless and tube-type tires--even bias-ply vs. bias-belted tires. The results can be disastrous.
9. Scuff 'Em Up: Optimal grip is obtained only after the tread surface has been ridden on, so go into those first few twisties with a bit of caution. The suggested break-in distance is usually 200 or so miles. After that, check the tire's pressure again!
10. Don't Scrimp: If you replace your tires, make sure you replace the tubes, too. Some manufacturers even recommend that you change both tires at the same time, even if they wear differently.
:rockon::rockon::rockon:
What are your two most important parts in your motorcycle? You might think it is the engine size and cool fairings that give your sport bike a cool head turning killer looks. No your two most important items upon which your survival depends are your
1. Tires.
2. Brakes.
Chain, amount of engine oil, engine condition, electrical (your blinkers) are very , computer, frame and secure points of attachment (nuts, bolts-not loose) are important too.
But let’s say your chain rips during the ride For chain rip the number #1 cause is improperly connected master link. Also chain being too loose or too tight!), then you will most likely ruin your transmission as a wrapped up chain on the engine sprocket will take all of the transmission gears. Well, this unpleasant and very scary event would actually free up the rear wheel enabling you to roll off the road. Same goes for the stuck (no oil, either leaked or not changed!) or blown engine, but you can still roll off the road by disengaging the engine with clutch lever even while being totally immersed in the plumes of smoke. The bottom line here is that you have probably ruined your bike and will have some very expensive repairs in the near future but you WILL STAY on the road.
Now just to give you a heads up example. One veteran biker had neglected this simple and yet absolutely crucial rule (should I say make it a law for yourselves to have the best tires for the bike, do not save money on them!) and went on the road with worn out front tire. He pushed his luck and happened to hit the oily patched (I’ve personally managed not just to hit those sleek oily spots leaked from cars/trucks engines, but to park the bike right in the middle of them at the intersections and nearly fall off as my feet were unable to gain any “traction” and started sliding all over. Quite uneasy feeling I must say). Well to make the story short that veteran hit an oily patch and that caused a bike to swerve, bike hit the curb, went over it (airborne) and sent the veteran rider straight in the telephone pole. Veteran biker also sported a helmet on his head and nothing else to protect him on the body. He said he tried to relax as his flying towards the pole and pulled his hand in towards the chest. Well the result was broken ribs and broken wrist. Now he has steel rods inside his wrist which hold it together. Probably not very convenient for him as he does construction for a living. This is straightforward case of rubber neglect.
1. Air It Out: Check tire pressure every chance you get. There's probably no simpler procedure that's more important and more ignored by bikers of every stripe. The air, not the carcass, supports the bike, and underinflation is a tire's number one enemy. (Make sure the tires are cool when you take the reading.) For a better traction in wet conditions, increase pressures by about 10 percent. Unsure of what the pressure is supposed to be? Look for a sticker somewhere on the bike. It is also probably on the VIN (serial number) plate hear the steering head with the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) and gross axle weight ratings (GAWR) information.
2. Step in Line: Pay close attention to alignment--shaft drive bikes have no adjustment, but if you have a chain or belt, check the position of your tires. Proper alignment ensures better handling and longer wear.
3. Steady, Now: Although it primarily affects handling, improper balance can also shorten a tire's life. Check it after 500 or 1000 miles of use.
4. Top It Off: The valve stem cap should be securely fastened on the stem, because it's an important part of your tire's sealing system. It'll give you extra security at high speeds, when centrifugal force can conspire to open the valve inside the stem.
5. Soap It Up: Most tire manufacturers recommend that the only substance used to keep rubber shiny should be good old soap and water. Many alleged protectants actually promote premature cracking and finish deterioration. Make sure you wipe off any lube, brake fluid or gas promptly, too.
6. Look Before You Crank: Before you saddle up, take a moment to visually inspect your tires. We can't tell you how many times we've pulled out screws or nails before a ride, thus preventing almost certain tire failure. Once you're on the road, it'll be too late.
7. Stay Smooth: This is common sense--avoid potholes and sharp objects on the road that can compromise your tire's integrity. The same goes for curbs.
8. Don't Mix and Match: Never run two tires of differing construction. We can't stress this enough, and this rule applies to bias-plies vs. radials as well as tubeless and tube-type tires--even bias-ply vs. bias-belted tires. The results can be disastrous.
9. Scuff 'Em Up: Optimal grip is obtained only after the tread surface has been ridden on, so go into those first few twisties with a bit of caution. The suggested break-in distance is usually 200 or so miles. After that, check the tire's pressure again!
10. Don't Scrimp: If you replace your tires, make sure you replace the tubes, too. Some manufacturers even recommend that you change both tires at the same time, even if they wear differently.
:rockon::rockon::rockon:
