Throttle not returning all the way while riding

[ghostdog]

I am having one issue with my 05 fz6 with 11,500 miles.

For example, I can slowly accelerate in second gear to around 40 mph and release the throttle. It should start to slow down but I notice it continues to stay basically at the same position. If I move the throttle forward manually the extra, maybe 5-10%, it will begin to decelerate.

I pulled off the end cap of the handle and it was pretty dirty in there so I vacuumed out all of the crud. Mainly there was some rust from the screw.

I adjusted the throttle linkage on the left side of the bike so it had less slack and it still seemed to do it albeit less though.

Should there be no slack at all on the cable? It has a tiny amount now.

I have a new air filter coming in so I am thinking I will spray down the throttle bodies at that time too.

 

[Darth Fazer]

I've had this problem on various bikes & it usually is due to the throttle cable(s) hanging because of being mis-routed, damaged or the inner lining worn creating excess friction. You are correct, there should be a small amount of slack in the cables. You may try disconnecting the cables from the grip end & lubricating them. There is a tool to do this or you could try to spray a lube down the cables while moving them back and forth. I believe they make a special "cable lube", but I think HILCO Lube is the best lube in the world for anything. It's kind of hard to find though, there's only one place in my area that sells it; a local place called Union Auto Parts.

 

[Marthy]

Make sure it doesn't rub too much on the bar end. Or maybe there's some crap stuck in there. A quick disassemble and clean up might help.

 

[KingY]

I've had this problem on various bikes & it usually is due to the throttle cable(s) hanging because of being mis-routed, damaged or the inner lining worn creating excess friction. You are correct, there should be a small amount of slack in the cables. You may try disconnecting the cables from the grip end & lubricating them. There is a tool to do this or you could try to spray a lube down the cables while moving them back and forth. I believe they make a special "cable lube", but I think HILCO Lube is the best lube in the world for anything. It's kind of hard to find though, there's only one place in my area that sells it; a local place called Union Auto Parts.

THIS, i ride year round and i have to always lube the cables as they get to the point i get hand cramp while manually shutting off the power on a long day of riding, plenty of cable lube and it will be as good as new, unless the cables has slightly expanded with wear then new cables will be better

 

[ghostdog]

Once I have the bar end off is there a trick to getting the grip off to clean/lube it? Sorry but this the first grip I've had to service.

 

[FinalImpact]

Once I have the bar end off is there a trick to getting the grip off to clean/lube it? Sorry but this the first grip I've had to service.

FWIW: under there throttle collar there is no lube (between bar and throttle collar/grip holder). Usually just rust and somehow they typically twist just fine. So don't expect to see old dried up grease unless someone else other than Yamaha put it there. As said above, cable lube with 5wt synthetic oil and proper adjustment will do wonders.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on all the above...

You will have to loosen the cables at handlebars, it'll make things a little easier taking the housing off, removing the cables from inner throttle tube and eventually the inner tube (with the grip).

While your poking around, check the ends of the cables for ANY FRAYING.

Also, just a touch of liquid wrench, something thin, on the bar will help keep the rust from accumulating quite so quick. Not too much or it'll attract dirt.

Make sure the inner part of your grip is not dragging on the switch housing too (likely it isn't)

The return spring for the throttle is on the left side, just below the tank, just visable under the frame... You can also check for any junk in there, brake cleaner will remove anything that doesn't belong there as well..

PLEASE post your results and good luck...

 

[ghostdog]

I'm still fighting it guys. I will dedicate more time this afternoon to it. What's weird is when the bike is off I swear the grip will return to home but when I'm in riding it won't do it.

I found the connection on the left side of the motor. Is the other cable underneath the tank? I have an air filter and spark plugs on way and I plan to do those at one sitting.

Thanks.

 

[FinalImpact]

After seeing your other post about the forks slid up to the moon, it could easily be a cable routing issue too which is corrected by placing the forks at or near flush in the top triple.


FWIW; I have always found it wise to try and keep it all in one place as it makes it easier to connect the dots (what all lead up to condition X and how it effects XYZ etc.). This is living forum and your stuff gets read and responded too unlike some places where a post is put in the ground and never seen again (pun intended)!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

After seeing your other post about the forks slid up to the moon, it could easily be a cable routing issue too which is corrected by placing the forks at or near flush in the top triple.


FWIW; I have always found it wise to try and keep it all in one place as it makes it easier to connect the dots (what all lead up to condition X and how it effects XYZ etc.). This is living forum and your stuff gets read and responded too unlike some places where a post is put in the ground and never seen again (pun intended)!

Oh, that bike!!! +1 on the above.


Some history on the bike, previous problems from the PO, etc helps ALOT, especially over the internet...

Now knowing this is the bike with the PO dropping the forks in the triple clamps does help diagnose other problems. As FI noted, it very possible the cables are not run correctly, got pinched real tight and the internal or external cable is bent...

As for your question Ghostdog, both the pull and push cables are attached to the same plate at the left end of the actual throttle butterfly plate shaft (what you see move when you turn the throttle). There is some adjustment in there for the cables but its tight. If you only have one cable showing/hooked up (please look closely), pull the tank and see what's going on. If someone's screwed with that too, (like the forks) and didn't know what they were doing, who knows where the other cable NOW goes to...

That throttle (pull cable) should have enough power to easily close, on its own, WITHOUT the return cable if all is cleaned, lubed, properly installed, etc.

The pull back cable is pretty much a safety feature should proper maintainance be ignored....

 

[ghostdog]

Oh, that bike!!! +1 on the above.


Some history on the bike, previous problems from the PO, etc helps ALOT, especially over the internet...

Now knowing this is the bike with the PO dropping the forks in the triple clamps does help diagnose other problems. As FI noted, it very possible the cables are not run correctly, got pinched real tight and the internal or external cable is bent...

As for your question Ghostdog, both the pull and push cables are attached to the same plate at the left end of the actual throttle butterfly plate shaft (what you see move when you turn the throttle). There is some adjustment in there for the cables but its tight. If you only have one cable showing/hooked up (please look closely), pull the tank and see what's going on. If someone's screwed with that too, (like the forks) and didn't know what they were doing, who knows where the other cable NOW goes to...

That throttle (pull cable) should have enough power to easily close, on its own, WITHOUT the return cable if all is cleaned, lubed, properly installed, etc.

The pull back cable is pretty much a safety feature should proper maintainance be ignored....

Is the main cable the lower cable or the one that is on top, looking from the side of the motor?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you cycle (move/accelerate) the throttle itself while looking at the TB's, the lower cable is the PULL CABLE (accelerate). You should just be able to see the cable tighten up, then pull the throttle bodies shaft open.

The upper cable is the return, (or safety cable)

And as stated previously, there should be a little bit of play with the cables, it should NOT BE TAUGHT...

 

[ghostdog]

I'm thinking there is some crap inside my grip. I took off the end cap with the allen key but couldn't for the life of me pull the grip off at all.

Should I just buy a new one and cut that one off? The one I have now isn't hideous to look at.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm thinking there is some crap inside my grip. I took off the end cap with the allen key but couldn't for the life of me pull the grip off at all.

Should I just buy a new one and cut that one off? The one I have now isn't hideous to look at.

The grip DOES NOT need to removed from the inner throttle tube at all (unless putting on new grips) to clean in there.

The bar bar weight needs to come off, I believe there's 2, possibly 3 screws that hold the right side switch assembly to the bar.

Loosen all the adjusters for the cables BEFORE splitting the switch assembly.

Once its split, you'll see the pull cable on top, the closer (safety) cable on the bottom.

Gently, and I mean GENTLY, remove the upper barrel end of the cable from the INNER TUBE(the cable will have to be positioned to come off the inner tube, I use a small needle nose pliers), then the lower cable.

The grip and inner tube will now come off (it should slide off very easily if its clean/maintained and spin very easily. Clean er up, lube your cables and re-assemble. Go slow and don't force anything. If it doesn't go together easily, somethings not right...

You can, while its apart, manually pull the "PULL" cable and see how hard it is to open the TB shaft on the left side of the bike. If its super stiff, your cable may be worn, faulty, bent, etc..


I DO HAVE a shop manual, would you like to have one, I suspect it may help you just in general about the specific's/basic's of the bike... Lemme know if you do...

 

[FinalImpact]

The grip DOES NOT need to removed from the inner throttle tube at all (unless putting on new grips) to clean in there.

The bar bar weight needs to come off, I believe there's 2, possibly 3 screws that hold the right side switch assembly to the bar.

Loosen all the adjusters for the cables BEFORE splitting the switch assembly.

Once its split, you'll see the pull cable on top, the closer (safety) cable on the bottom.

Gently, and I mean GENTLY, remove the upper barrel end of the cable from the INNER TUBE(the cable will have to be positioned to come off the inner tube, I use a small needle nose pliers), then the lower cable.

The grip and inner tube will now come off (it should slide off very easily if its clean/maintained and spin very easily. Clean er up, lube your cables and re-assemble. Go slow and don't force anything. If it doesn't go together easily, somethings not right...

You can, while its apart, manually pull the "PULL" cable and see how hard it is to open the TB shaft on the left side of the bike. If its super stiff, your cable may be worn, faulty, bent, etc..


I DO HAVE a shop manual, would you like to have one, I suspect it may help you just in general about the specific's/basic's of the bike... Lemme know if you do...

^^ ++ Well said. . .

if you have some dialectic grease, now is good time to clean and apply a thin layer to the contacts of the Safety Switch. . .

 

[ghostdog]

I DO HAVE a shop manual, would you like to have one, I suspect it may help you just in general about the specific's/basic's of the bike... Lemme know if you do...

Hell yeah brother.

 

[ghostdog]

Update guys.

I took off the throttle control, cleaned up under the grip, lubed both cables and ensured everything was smooth. It was actually not as dirty as I expected it to be.

After taking Townsends advice about taking up more slack in the cable and noticed a great improvement. There is just a tiny bit of slack now.

Everything seems well now.

 

[ghostdog]

Well I thought it was well but it didn't last. When I would blip the throttle it would return like normal but when i would blip it up to like 6,000 rpm it would take a lot longer to return.

So I pulled the air cleaner assembler cleaned everything with carburetor cleaner. It was pretty dirty around the springs, but the butterflies were not that bad.

After that everything is running great.

So I guess the solution was cleaning the throttle body springs. Adjusting the cables had little effect on it. Next time you have the air box off be sure to lube them.

 

[turbid]

mine is beginning to show such symptoms as well. the cable is lubed and the handlebar itself is lubed with grease, im beginning to think its because i have fitted the xjr handlbar. it has a bit more rise than the stock fz so i think it may have stretched the cables a bit.

 

[ghostdog]

I determined it wasn't the grip/cables by disconnecting the cables from the grip and revving it manually from the side of the motor.

This is what mine looked like in there before cleaning. Yikes.