Throttle Cable change

[sdriv3r]

My throttle cables got crushed and now the throttle has a hard time returning to the "off" position. It looks like one of the cable housings is also cracked, exposing the interior. Instead of cheaping out and somehow trying to fix it I decided to just replace them.

1. Should I do both cables or only the damaged one?

2. Anyone has any aftermarket cables on their bike? Any brands/cables that I should go for or just stick with OEM?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My throttle cables got crushed and now the throttle has a hard time returning to the "off" position. It looks like one of the cable housings is also cracked, exposing the interior. Instead of cheaping out and somehow trying to fix it I decided to just replace them.

1. Should I do both cables or only the damaged one?

2. Anyone has any aftermarket cables on their bike? Any brands/cables that I should go for or just stick with OEM?

I would disconnect both of them to determine which is damaged(especially internally).

If one or both have any dragging to speak of, replace it. If the housing is cracked, I'd replace, you don't want water, crap getting in there.

As for an aftermarket cable, I'd definitely stick with OEM. Its rare you have to replace them at all.

I wouldn't want a cheap Chinese knock off failing when I'm in the middle of no where or worse yet, in traffic...Could be very bad....

 

[sdriv3r]

I would disconnect both of them to determine which is damaged(especially internally).

If one or both have any dragging to speak of, replace it. If the housing is cracked, I'd replace, you don't want water, crap getting in there.

As for an aftermarket cable, I'd definitely stick with OEM. Its rare you have to replace them at all.

I wouldn't want a cheap Chinese knock off failing when I'm in the middle of no where or worse yet, in traffic...Could be very bad....

I was looking for either OEM or better, not necessarily cheaper.

One of them has to go, will remove the second one and check if there is dragging and replace it too if needed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think there's a better cable than the OEM (might be wrong), but short of damaging it, it should last the life of the bike if maintained once in a while..

 

[VEGASRIDER]

I
As for an aftermarket cable, I'd definitely stick with OEM. Its rare you have to replace them at all.
.

103k miles on my original throttle cables, and still going.

 

[Ohendo]

Old thread, but thought this was an appropriate place to post.

While changing my thermostat over Christmas, happened to notice some fraying on the "pull" throttle cable. Yikes! I've always kept throttle/clutch cables lubed, but for whatever reason haven't inspected the throttle cables where they attach at the throttle bodies in a long time. I ordered both cables, why not replace the "push" cable at the same time. They are both almost 12 years old, and only $10/each from Partzilla.

No real issues during the replacement, pretty straightforward. Turns out I had issues on both cables. But WOW, I came pretty close to snapping the main and stranding myself somehwere! Little word of advice, take a peak from the side with a flashlight and examine your throttle cables for any fraying!

 

[FinalImpact]

How many miles, what year is the bike and how would you categorize the bulk of its use?
Garage kept, covered outside, fends for itself outside...

FWIW - both cables pull, however one acks as a return but I'm sure thats what you meant. Glad you found it now.

Thanks in a advance.

 

[FinalImpact]

Abstract - lets say you broke the main pull cable used to open the throttle. Is there any chance a stranded rider could "rig" the return cable **in place of the main cable** and ride home?
Likely using the carry on tools in the oem bag.

Perhaps you could take a picture of the two cables side by side? Thanks in advance!

 

[Ohendo]

Yep, I know both pull. But for some reason that's how they're referred to.

Bike is a 2005. Just over 36K miles. I don't know the full history of how it was kept, unfortunately. But I do know it was purchased new in the high heat city of Scottsdale, AZ; sold to someone in Delaware 4 years later. Then sold to a buyer in PA, who garaged it full time. I purchased in Jan 2012 and have kept it garaged and even sometimes in my living room. Of those 36K miles, I've put on 26K of them, mostly in commuting, mostly in dry weather.

The two cables are the same length, but have slightly different connections/adjusters for cable tension. I'm thinking you could swap them in a pinch, will have to look closer. It would be tough to get it done roadside, as you really need to remove the airbox to get access. Theoretically, if you have small, long fingers, I guess you could get by without removing it. Will try to take some pics when I get home.

 

[Ohendo]

Abstract - lets say you broke the main pull cable used to open the throttle. Is there any chance a stranded rider could "rig" the return cable **in place of the main cable** and ride home?
Likely using the carry on tools in the oem bag.

Perhaps you could take a picture of the two cables side by side? Thanks in advance!

Okay, pics below. You can see the differences. If you wanted to swap them in a pinch, hopefully you would have a knife or pair of side cutters to nip off the plastic tab that sticks out of the side at the handlebar connection end. Other than that, it would fit in my opinion.
Good to know!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ + 5 for follow up and a Rep point for you!

Knowing this could get someone home!
Thanks man!

Now lets all go Hibernate for a while as its 24°F outside! :Flip:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ouch!

Great catch and pic's.

I just replaced mt clutch cable (23,000 miles and ALWAYS lubed).
It was binding just on the perch end, and further investigation showed the condition
about the same as yours.

A little bit of maintenance / inspection saves many a headache and maybe your life.

Just a side note (as it wasn't addressed). There isn't much tension at all when the
throttle is turned(MUCH LESS than the clutch).

**Make sure you have a tad bit of play when adjusting BOTH THROTTLE CABLES.
If their too taught, there's too much tension on them and you'll get pre-mature wear.

You should see, at the TB end, just a tiny bit of slack in the cable.