Throttle body synch movie.

Fred

M em b er e d
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
1,790
Reaction score
63
Points
0
Location
Austin, TX
www.robietech.com
One last piece of advice. When you hook up again, pinch the vacuum lines on the carb synchronizer to kink them, and hold them kinked with a clothes pin or similar.

Then once the bike is running, you can slowly unkink the vacuum lines and see if the fluid is rising to a normal level or trying to get sucked into the intake.

Frederic
 

Denver_FZ6

Junior Member
Joined
May 4, 2008
Messages
369
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Denver, Co. USA
Visit site
Nice video, just watched it again for the 5th time. And all the way to the end too. Don't know how I missed that ending previously, wow!

Wish I could make it to the weekend campout to get my throttles sync'd, little far for me though.
 

Oscar54

Senior Member
Elite Member
Joined
May 25, 2008
Messages
585
Reaction score
10
Points
0
Location
Florida
Visit site
Yo Fred & Hellgate, Fine job on the video. Nice to see it is easily accessable and easy.

I was surprised that the sync appeared to have nothing to do with butterfly valve in the throtle body itself?

Do those screws adjust the indivual throttle position like on the old 4 carb setups? Or do they adjust the vacuum by bypassing air past the valve?

Anyway thanks for the video.

Lewis
 

CrazyBiker

Superbike Champion
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,317
Reaction score
6
Points
38
Location
San Jose, CA
Visit site
One last piece of advice. When you hook up again, pinch the vacuum lines on the carb synchronizer to kink them, and hold them kinked with a clothes pin or similar.

Then once the bike is running, you can slowly unkink the vacuum lines and see if the fluid is rising to a normal level or trying to get sucked into the intake.

Frederic

I HAVE to do that to ensure the debacle doesn't repeat. But now my 1st task is to figure out how and where to get the liquid that was lost.
 

hazy

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
135
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Singapore
Visit site
Hi Fred & Hellgate,thank for your great video.I will be doing sync for my 80 fz6 soon.It seem rather easily,but I do have a problem. How to identify which vacuum hose belong to which cylinder?
Possible with a aid of a taken photo really help a newbiew like me.
Thanks
 

Fred

M em b er e d
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
1,790
Reaction score
63
Points
0
Location
Austin, TX
www.robietech.com
Hi Fred & Hellgate,thank for your great video.I will be doing sync for my 80 fz6 soon.It seem rather easily,but I do have a problem. How to identify which vacuum hose belong to which cylinder?
Possible with a aid of a taken photo really help a newbiew like me.
Thanks

The movie shows that in the beginning. There are two hoses on each side of the bike. One will have a pink band, and one will not. The pink band is, I think, the outside cylinder. I'm at work so I cannot watch the video to check this. Take a look at it and it will tell you.

Anyway, on the left side, pink band should be cylinder one. No pink band will be cylinder two. Then on the right side, no pink band will be cylinder three. And the right side pink band will be cylinder four.


Fred
 

MakersTeleMark

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
93
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Central Colorado
Visit site
My bike has a little rough spot around 5k, and I rarely if ever am below that rpm. I'm wondering if it would be wise to synch at 5k rather than 4k to smoothen it out.

Thoughts?
 

georgerdp

Junior Member
Joined
May 31, 2014
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Norwich UK
Visit site
My bike has a little rough spot around 5k, and I rarely if ever am below that rpm. I'm wondering if it would be wise to synch at 5k rather than 4k to smoothen it out.

Thoughts?

It is a good question ... why 4000 and not 5000 ? on my bike between 5000 5500 are the worst vibrations . Should I do sync at 4000 or 5000 ? thank you
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
My bike has a little rough spot around 5k, and I rarely if ever am below that rpm. I'm wondering if it would be wise to synch at 5k rather than 4k to smoothen it out.

Thoughts?

You can always try it at 3k, 4k, and 5k. Record the number of turns out in ONE SESSION. Example: record your best setting for each all at one time. Go for a rip, pull over and change it from 5K value to 4K recorded value.

I will say there are diminishing returns tho. Lets add some perspective. The volume of air required to idle the engine and race it too 5k are minimal compared to the actual throttle opening to say roll down the road or go uphill. Obviously going up hills opens the the throttle plate further bypassing the idle circuit.

In this picture the two tubes on the left are supplying the idle air. As the throttle plates open, less and less air is moving through the idle air control valve.
picture.php


My Point: you might look into the ignition system. Not sure how many miles on the bike but excessive plug gap comes to mind. Have you ever checked the plug wires at the caps? Sometimes they get loose and induce issues. Specifically vibration!
 

Floridianson

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Fl.
Visit site
[QUOTE=Fred
Did you change the top left screw? I hope not, that's the one that is set to a specific level by Yamaha. If you altered that one, you'll need to reset its vacuum level using a vacuum gauge. The proper vacuum level is listed in the service manual. I'm at school right now so I can't look it up for you.

Fred if you get a chance could you give us the Vacuum specs on # 1 cyl. Thanks and Thanks for the Vid.
 

Floridianson

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Fl.
Visit site
Ok I ran into a bit of trouble. I tried calibrating the Motion Pro as instructed in the service manual using the cyl#1. I even turned all the screws CCW to lower the levels. But still when I started the bike the fluid got sucked into the tubes. Fortunately I killed the ignition before it entered the engine. What am I doing wrong?

Did you check to make shure the restrictors were put in the lines and put in the right way?

Fred I found the specs on line.Thanks
 
Top