Notice the dates 2014-04, and it seems to matter what device it plays on. Desktop seems better than the phone that created it which makes it hard to hear (phone as playback device)...
Idle is roughly 1100 rpm.
Idle is roughly 1100 rpm.
The "HOLE" everyone talks about! I looked in it! :D
After turkey day I'll see if i can load an after valve adjustment audio. Much quieter now! Sounds so much better!
ECU is in relean mode tho so its a tad rich...
ECU is in relean mode tho so its a tad rich...
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Did you re-sync afterwards? It'd be a good idea to at least check it...
BTW, did the idle smooth out fully (vs the old audio link you provided) once warmed up?
1) Sync was spot on.
2) Its as smooth as it gets and I'm out of adjustment to lean it out anymore by adding air via sync screws. All four were backed out evenly. Intentional disregard for FSM note to "not adjust" sync screw one. Its required in some cases.
Pick up over here. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-impact-winter-project-playing-w-trigger.html
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Agreed and I've posted that before. Should you run out of adjustment, turing #1 out just a tad gives you more adjustment on the rest. My # is currently at about 7/8ths (as I re-call).
Just so we're on the same page, I beileve, turning the adjustment scrws outwards(CC), riches up the mixture, correct?
IMO, if its still not idleing correctly, and you've richened up the CO settings (I think the #'s are fairly high-rich right now on your bike).
I would bring those (CO) back to roughly 10 or so (un-less you know the original #'s, ((which I think you posted you didn't have/know)).
Then do the sync and see if you can the idle mix where it should be and not lope.
The bike sounds great anywhere above the lower RPM's. The fluctuation at idle, I suspect something is amiss. Most of the bikes, (stock config), idle smooth with maybe 50-100 variation.
With that said, perhaps the ignition advance is messing with the idle. In cages, as you likely know, an advanced ignition (advancing the distributor) would raise the idle but not make the engine lope.
If your happy with the way it is, please disreguard ALL the above..:thumbup:
Someone is looking for answers about this.... Should I be worried about the white residue on plug #1?
To answer a few questions.
Q: Should you run out of adjustment, turing #1 out just a tad gives you more adjustment on the rest.
A: Somewhat true - the screws effect the Air Fuel Ratio. Balance here does not imply the AFR is correct. That said, maintaining proper idle speed range may not be possible if if #1 is too far in OR out - however, you should still be able to obtain balance within reason.
Q: I beleive, turning the adjustment scrws outwards(CC), riches up the mixture, correct?
A: No it does not. Its the opposite. Screws in all the way nearly stops all air flow (RICH). Turning the screws CC increases the airflow at idle which would lean them out.
Yes, I know the original CO settings and IACV # of turns out. Although it lopes, I don't idle much and the gains it has down low is worth the varying idle speed.
Observation: for those whose bikes die when idling at lower RPMs say 1000 to 1100 RPM, screwing all of the sync screws in would richen the idle and reduce this tendency. Assuming you wish to keep the idle lower. Example: turn in #1 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and then match the others or do a TB sync. If this is not enough to solve the stalling issue (assuming tune up, plugs, fuel is all OK), richen the CO setting and
you should be able to reduce stalling at idle or when coming down from RPM and having it stall.
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Just as a side note (which I apparently missed), per the FSM, should you need to set back the base screw to factory settings, it is set at 3/4 out