Suspension - Mod, R6 or Ohlins?

[Bikebiz]

People have done it on the bike with a pump, but I noticed that only maybe half the oil drained initially, it took a dozen 'pumps' to get the rest going. I also had to hold the fork upside down for quite a few minutes. The flow of oil was extremely slow but very constant. It didn't taper off for a long time. So I recommend taking them off. If you can jack your front up it's very simple.

 

[NineseveN]

R6 front and back, very happy… the R6 rear shock needs to be rebuilt before you can use it. Valve stack and spring.

FZ6-ZN

If you don't mind me asking, what did that set you back?

 

[fazil]

the R6 rear shock needs to be rebuilt before you can use it. Valve stack and spring

Can you explain how did you do that mod with pictures?
IT looks like a cheap alternative to Ohlins rear shock mod.

 

[stink989]

I replaced my internals for Hyperpro progressive springs,
its lots better now, funny thing was, as he emptied the stock oil,
out of the left tube: green oil, right tube: silver
WTF! yamaha used 2 different oils, bastards, no wonder it wandered off to the right all the time. Its LOTS more stable now.

the 2 sides being different wouldnt make it wander. some forks have rebound adjustment on one fork and compresion adjustment on the other side, have even heard of using differnt springs in each side more then likely your tyre being worn one side more then the other.

 

[FZ6-ZN]

I bought the R6 front forks & front axle for $139 on eBay from Rick at Steelecycle. The R6 front brake calipers for $60 on eBay form Erik at world wide rockets and R6 rear shock for $29 on eBay from Anna Johnson. Lastly I bought a spacer kit form dao81 for $65. dako81 is a Forum member.

My neighbor Rod races for Yamaha and he is an A class motorcycle mechanic. Rod rebuilt the R6 rear shock internals to suit my body weight. Rod replaced the R6 shock oil and re-gassed the nitrogen. The stock R6 spring is way too soft to use so Rod fitted the FZ6 spring to the R6 shock. The stock FZ6 spring is about ¼ inch longer than the R6 coil spring, so Rod cut the FZ6 coil spring to the same length as the R6 spring and closed the springs open end and ground the top of the coil flat. The cost of Rods work was $157

I modified the top mounting bracket on the sub-frame to accommodate the R6 shock. There is a post somewhere here on our Forum on how to trim the sub-frame and fit an R6 shock. I machined 2 stainless steel 12mm to 10mm collars to reduce the 12mm hole in the sub-frame to 10mm as the R6 top mounting bolt is 10mm. I didn’t want a rattle fit.

All in all, the R6 front fork and R6 rear shock mod set me back around $450. I haven’t ridden with an ohlins rear shock yet so I cannot comment. The R6 suspension mod I’ve done has improved the bikes handling drastically.

FZ6-ZN

If you don't mind me asking, what did that set you back?

 

[Drinky]

the 2 sides being different wouldnt make it wander. some forks have rebound adjustment on one fork and compresion adjustment on the other side, have even heard of using differnt springs in each side more then likely your tyre being worn one side more then the other.

well I didn't replace my front tire and it wanders to the side a lot less now, so something was wrong

 

[Bikebiz]

well I didn't replace my front tire and it wanders to the side a lot less now, so something was wrong

Some Cannondale mountain bikes only have a single fork leg on the left. Any difference between your forks legs will simply average out.

 

[farish]

The stock forks aren't to bad with new internals. I wnet with the matris fork kit and couldn't be happier.

you put in the aftermarket front fork springs and left the rear suspension stock??

If so, what was the difference in handling?? did the bike feel unbalanced with front fork kit and stock rear suspension?

 

[gusss]

I've been trying to find some instructions on changing my fork oil, probably a better one...
But I have not found any information... can somebody help me please?
What is best oil... brand?
what W 10w 15w?
how much ? I weigh 78kg

THANKSSSSSSSSSSSS

 

[philosopheriam]

Dumped the old oil. 750km on the bike now so it wasn't too cloudy. In with the new. Here's the next interesting bit. I was advised around 450ml would fill each leg. I ended up using the complete 500ml in each leg (had a 1 litre bottle of 15w) and it left me at exactly 135mm gap. As I wanted to go for a 120mm gap, I topped up with the stock oil. So hint 2 is to get another bottle just in case (you can always return it).

I'll be installing Racetech .90kg/mm springs and Silkolene 10w in my fork next week. I'll let everyone know the results!

You filled the legs with oil and checked the level before reinstalling any of the fork guts (springs, spacers, etc) - right?

Thanks!

 

[Bikebiz]

I'll be installing Racetech .90kg/mm springs and Silkolene 10w in my fork next week. I'll let everyone know the results!

You filled the legs with oil and checked the level before reinstalling any of the fork guts (springs, spacers, etc) - right?

Thanks!

I made a mistake and rectified it the next day. So a 1litre does cover it. Took out the fork springs, spacer tube and washer, and ensured the forks were compressed. Then measured the gap. Then installed the parts. Sorry I should have posted this amendment!

I used 15w, if I was going to do it again would probably go 12.5w. I'm 80kg.

 

[philosopheriam]

....and ensured the forks were compressed. Then measured the gap.

So what gap did you use - 134mm or 120mm - the Yamaha service manual states 134mm. Just curious!

 

[Bikebiz]

So I did end up with just over 120mm.

 

[gusss]

are there any instrucions for doing this?

anybody

 

[philosopheriam]

I just spoke to Racetech today, and they suggested a gap of 130mm - the Racetech springs are slightly shorter and take up less volume in the fork, so, more oil is needed.