Strange stalling problem on 2008

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Anyone got a schematic? Not knowing specifics; Here's My W.A.G.! Hot Ckp or Cmp ; degregated a.c. sine to ecm: Stall and no restart till cooled a bit! The tach should be the dead givaway; It would 0 just before the actual stall! Remember this is just a WAG!!!! Ron

You can download a manual for any year bike from this forum. I believe their still available...

And yes, I agree, its looking like a loose wire, corrosion, hopefully not an ECU. The pins can come loose from behind and its not hard to miss a pin not fully seated...

Good luck,

 

[Gobs]

As previously said, I went to the Yamaha workshop here, and I had a good time with the mechanics. They checked the whole diagnostic program and only found the TPS value was a bit high at full opened throttle: 103 instead of 97 to 100, while at full closed throttle value was oscillating between 16 and 17, for 15 to 17.
They advised me nothing very important at first glance, but that's not "normal". So they want to check deeper what's happening with the TPS on a next appointment. The TPS command looks like "loosen"...

They confirmed many problems with TPS on the years 2004 and 2005. But latest bikes had been manufactured with improved TPS hence no specific problems.

I can confirmed: as I learned it today in the Yam workshop, here is the way to go to check the TPS values on the display:
1) Press and hold RESET + SELECT alltogether, then turn the key on and keep them pressed for about 8 seconds or a bit more, untill the display shows "dI" on the screen (all others indications disappears: it's normal).
You are in the diagnostic program (dI)
2) Then, press and hold RESET + SELECT alltogether for some seconds untill d01 appears on the display. It is the diagnostic mode for the TPS.
- Throttle full closed: 15 to 17
- Throttle full opened: 97 to 100

If you want to go on checking diagnostics for other sensors/switches, press and hold RESET + SELECT alltogether again for some seconds, you get the d02.
And so on for d03, d04, etc...

To leave, turn the key off.

A bit different from tomari's tip on the n° 2. Maybe depends the year... I don't know.

Cheers,
Gobs

 

[goker]

It has been raining and cool last couple of days so I haven't done anything with the bike until tonight. I took it apart and went through everything again and all seemed fine except for ground battery connection that was just a little loose. :spank: Retighted it up and put everything back together. Tomorrow will be the test to see if it acts up again.

 

[goker]

Well, as mysteriously as the problem arrived, it disappeared the same way. Last couple of days, I did not experience any stalling problems at all. It seems to be behaving normally now at all temperature ranges. As much as I like to blame the battery connection, I don't think it was loose enough to cause the issue. Just wanted to give one last update. I would have very much like to find and fix the issue, so I would not worry about it anymore, but, oh well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A loose ground or bad ground can cause intermediate problems. I suspect you found the problem and corrected it... Electrical/ignition systems are very sensative should something be corroded/not tight...

 

[Gobs]

Good for you Goker!

And I 200% agree with TownsendsFJR1300: electronic/computered/digital devices onboard realy hate loosen connections...
It's why when we make a mod, let's be very, very careful as how we manage the "thing"!

Cheers

 

[tammalameade]

Has anybody resolved this issue I also have 2008 FZ6 with this problem, it has low mileage,and have taken my bike back twice and was told they couldn't understand why it was having this problem. I mentioned the TPS.... Which I stated to them reads 16/101, was told that wasn't the problem.... Was placed on a gas treatment for the next 3 refill, I feel that some unit or sensor is getting hot and will not restart until temp is approximately down in 180-190, haven't pin point exact temp. I've been thinking on some type of heat pad underneath the tank to see if that would help. HELP!

 

[fazil]

My bike has been registered at the end of the year 2008, but in fact it's a 2009 model (FZ6F S2). Is there any difference?

Considering that, only S2 version have this kind of issues. , S2 has a oxygen sensor on the headers. S1 doesn't have that gizmo.
I have no idea about how it works but may be it is affected by heat.
Just a thought.

 

[Motogiro]

The OP in this thread did finally resolve this issue by insuring his battery connections were good. Did he disconnect the battery for a moment and cause a reset!

Although some claim disconnecting the battery will not reset anything I have personally experienced anomaly on my FZ6 that was cured by disconnecting the battery, waiting a few minutes, and reconnecting the battery. Most ECU's have volatile memory that learns the specific setting and behavior of inputs. This volatile memory can learn a bad habit. Try a reset and let us know what happens.

 

[Gelvatron]

Usually the prom or EPROM can be reset by taking all voltage from the ECM

 

[FinalImpact]

Usually the prom or EPROM can be reset by taking all voltage from the ECM

Not So, ROM is Read Only Memory. its programmed once and cannot be changed again (old school stuff), It's not volatile until ESD/shock kills it. EPROM (Erasable Programmable, Read, Only Memory) need a signal applied to Erase them. You have to intentionally clock it with specific signals to the right pins to erase it and or modify it. What we have here is Flash RAM (Random Access Memory) which is sustained in volatile memory by the battery. When the ECMs internal brain looses power the flash memory is lost. Thus it starts out fresh with a base map from which it grows and changes to the environment.

I don't see the O2 sensor doing this. If you suspect it; unplug it. it will run without and report an error. Likely Run Rich tho as its in Fail Safe mode. Running rich will compromise the CAT and make it very hot. No more than Tank full should be ran in this mode.

If I had to guess, I'd pick on the Ignition system followed by the Injection system. To isolate this, do the following: next time it craps out, pull out your spare spark plug you have in your easy access pocket and IMMEDIATELY pull a plug cap and insert your SPARE plug in the cap. Place the threaded area of the plug next to a bare bolt and hit the start button. Do you see a Purple or White Spark?

If no spark is present, now lets figure out why. BTW: yellow and orange colors are indicative of a weak low voltage spark which may not be enough to run a 12:1 compression engine. To increase the chances of getting a GOOD READ, wrap the plugs threads in bare wire and be prepared to drape the wire over an exposed ground like an engine bolt. Also make sure the spare plug has the same or slightly greater gap than those in the engine.

Somehow I have doubts about the injection system. Its a bit harder to test but there are cut outs that impact both that could be effected, but this is easy to test so lets start with the ignition system.