still have downshift issues, mostly after steady ride

[roscohendrix]

Ok so I have a 2006 fz6 an also have the same issue after a lot of highway riding. While I don't know what actually causes this issue I have found a way around it. When you get to third an the bike will not find second gear, simply put your foot under the shifter like you we're switching to fourth gear, and lift up just a tad but not enough to actually up shift. Then tryin shifting down to second and it should work. Its annoying but it keeps me from havin to leave from a stoplight in third gear. You may have to repeat from second to first. ... but any info on how to actually fix this issue would be greatly appreciated. First post by the way.

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to the best motorcycle forum on the WWW!!!
I'm not very familiar with the inner mechanicals for the shifting assembly
but we have some members here that are great in these areas.
The outer link must be mechanically sound, clean and lubricated and if you haven't attended to this it is the first place I would start.

The shift mechanism must be totally free to return to it's relaxed state before it's next function. Be sure your left foot is completely off the lever after each down shift.
Search shift linkage or hard shifting.


Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2

 

[foxbass]

I have an 08 S2 with 20 thou on the clock. I also have had some of the problems listed here.

Frist, it is possible and very disconcerting to find false neutrals occasionally as on most bikes. A very small lever adjustment can alleviate this. (Or new boots!)

Second, I agree that down changing all at once while travelling too slowly will cause issues and the box will not engage properly. I tend to double tap to drop 2 gears at a time - but not from high speeds, say 60ish then the same again somewhere around 30. Thats 2nd at 30, not too harsh, then a tap for neutral around 10 and roll to a stop.
What I've sometimes found tho is that selecting 1st is stubborn unless the clutch trick is used. I have the opinion that this is related to the rate of decelleraton. If I slow gradually/normally, 1st goes in fine, if I've had to stop much quicker, 1st won't engage unless I let the clutch.
Its like the centrifuge has flung the oil aside and the mechanism won't operate.

Third, I have had occasional gear probs but have noticed that very rarely the gear lever will suddenly tap down onto the top of my boot while NOT changing gear, maybe a few moments or even minutes later. This would indicate that the internal return spring has not operated fully to bring the lever back down after a shift (upwards). The result has been on a couple of occasions that the lever had not returned fully before I needed another gear and would therefore not select. It is possible therefore that the same could happen in reverse.
My observations here are that the gears, when under load, may sometimes not allow the lever to ratchet down fully ready for the next gear.
Whether this is a design flaw or as suggested, the result of a hot engine would be the judgement of an expert. I can see the co-efficient of heat expansion being a problem on long runs in high temps, but we don't see much of that over here!

I have had fewer problems since using Motul 300V too. Very pricey tho. Got mine at severe discount. (Went in for the 5100 but they were out of stock)

 

[ghostdog]

You may try backing off the clutch adjustment so it requires more of a pull to engage. This fixed my issues of having to let go of the clutch so it would sort of click into position then let me switch gears.

 

[PhotoAl]

I have had this problem. Check your linkage. There is a pivot plus a couple of joints. The shift leaver (what your foot operates) has a simple sleeve bearing which can get stiff and not work so well. It needs to move freely. Take it off, clean and lubricate with good grease being careful to use just enough but not too much. Also clean and lube the pivot joints. Made a big difference on my bike. If the leaver does not return to the center position, the transmission will not be ready to make the next shift.

 

[FinalImpact]

OK - here is the test for the complaints about it not being able to shift after sustained PRM in the same gear.

While cruising along in 6th get it down around 4000 rpm and hold it. Pull the clutch IN and the engine should flare. If it doesn't well, the oil is gone between the frictions and steels and they are stuck together!

You need to use the clutch a little on long runs. I'm curious for someone who can predict it to point of knowing when it will happen, to have them ease in and clutch (throttle on) and see if it flares. If it does flare, DOES it have the same issue it had not allowing shifts???? I bet not!

Just thinking out loud. . .

 

[BajaBob]

Follow up on my issue related to this one.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...53-shifter-sticks-downshift-2.html#post561574

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Follow up on my issue related to this one.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...53-shifter-sticks-downshift-2.html#post561574

Agreed, the above is going to be a very big help.

Between the lever itself (and possible lack of lube/servicing) and the actual shift linkage getting sticky (again a maintainance item), you have to remember, the ONLY THING trying to return the shifter lever to its normal, centered position, is a small spring (part #10 in the first picture) under the left side, small engine shifter cover(that the shifter shaft goes thru).

Any crap, lack of lube, ALL WORKS AGAINST this part...

Spring #10 is the actual spring that re-centers the entire shifter assembly/lever, etc. Part #1 pulls that lever(with the roller), to lock the main shift cam assembly...

**Just a side note, part #9 in the first picture, is what actually pulls/pushes the main shift cam assembly(shifting gears). If part of that is bent, you will have major issues shifting, even if everything is spotless and lubed..

BTW, I use waterproof, Yamaha, Marine grease on the pivot point(lever) as it will not wash away, is made for wet area's.



The roller above part #3, engauges with the closest end of the below pic, part #2(which holds the transmission in one gear). Those "dowels", below, (sticking out) is what the shifter (part #9 actually grab and rotate the shifter cam).