Spring and oil change w/ adjustable rebound fork caps

[motojoe122]

Ok, my latest mod is to change from stock to Race Tech .95 springs and 15w oil. I also intend to change the stock fork caps with the adjustable rebound caps I got off slingshot racing.

I understand the RT springs are shorter than stockers, so would I divide the difference in spring lengths and add that to the length of the stock spacer when I cut the new spacers?

Keep in mind, the adjustable caps were meant for replacement on stock springs and spacer.

I've search most of the threads on this, maybe I'm not "seeing" what I'm looking for.

Thanks for any advice, and sorry if I've confused anyone more than I am already:spank:

Joe

 

[FinalImpact]

Can you scanny the instructions for the springs???

Also - you could pull one cap and measure the difference between stock installed height and the adjustable.

Why:
1) lets say the adjustable one is set to the middle of range and that equals the same height as the stock cap. = Follow the RC instructions.

2) lets say the adjustable one's fully retracted position equals the same height as the stock cap. NOW i think you need to do some thinking about where you cut the extension.

Can you scan or give at little more detail on either? It would help.

 

[motojoe122]

Thanks Final,

I'll get to it tomorrow, I've been out on our buoy boat training in the rain all day and I feel like crap.

Just from looking at the adjustable caps, they look to be stock length + 1 washer thickness, but I'll measure tomorrow.

 

[motojoe122]

So far:
Adj. caps...1in. compressed.
Stock caps..18mm.

 

[motojoe122]

Here's the RT instructions:thumbup:

From what I understand, I have the external top-out. Type E caps.

 

[marke14]

I don't think we have top out springs in our forks. This is from my 2007 service manual (I also have the Race Tech springs and .15 weight oil in my forks).

As I recall, I had to do some experimentation with a length of PVC pipe in order to get the spacer length right. I believe that I ended up with something slightly shorter than what the instructions specified.

Basically, in my experience, if you have a spacer that is so long that you have to both push the fork cap down (to compress the spring) at the same time that you turn the cap to get the threads started, it will be a major PITA and you will have to go shorter.

Also, just an observation - it appears that your new adjustable damping fork cap is missing the all-important O-ring seal at the top.

How do those adjust the damping? I don't get it ... very cool if it works, do report back and good luck! :thumbup: *subscribed*

 

[motojoe122]

I don't think we have top out springs in our forks. This is from my 2007 service manual (I also have the Race Tech springs and .15 weight oil in my forks).

As I recall, I had to do some experimentation with a length of PVC pipe in order to get the spacer length right. I believe that I ended up with something slightly shorter than what the instructions specified.

Basically, in my experience, if you have a spacer that is so long that you have to both push the fork cap down (to compress the spring) at the same time that you turn the cap to get the threads started, it will be a major PITA and you will have to go shorter.

Also, just an observation - it appears that your new adjustable damping fork cap is missing the all-important O-ring seal at the top.

How do those adjust the damping? I don't get it ... very cool if it works, do report back and good luck! :thumbup: *subscribed*

Hey Mark,

I PM'ed you back.

The instructions for the adj. caps says to re-use the o-ring from the stock cap. It's in good shape.

The cap is for adjusting pre-load, same as adding or subtracting the length of the spacer or washers. Plus, they look

EDIT: Just realized I had been calling these rebound adjusters when in fact they are pre-load adjusters.

 

[FinalImpact]

Here is the super condensed version of the RT install. Section #3 measuring. . .

1) Measure your new cap, from the flange to the spring perch (Call it P1) - perch is where the springs touches/seats against. I'd start with it fully seated so the perch is against the cap. You can always pull the spacer and cut it again if its too firm (no sag), but can't add to it.
2) Install the new springs with washers, spacers, washers, etc. Everything that goes in.
3) Measure from the end of the tube to the spacers & washer WITH the fork fully extended (call it F1).

Lets say:
PL = Preload [PL desired is 20mm]
P1 = 30mm
F1 = 10mm a positive amount above the tube +10mm
==================
ADD them
PL = +40mm

The RT springs call for 20mm of static preload for a basic starting point for the street. That means you need to cut 20mm off the spacer.

Overall its kind of a guessing game. You can always cut the spacer again. PL above 20mm will make it harder to put together (fighting the spring while starting threads) and reduce sag making the ride more choppy (heavier steering). Numbers less than 20 will make it softer and likely turn better in the corners.

You have roughly 22mm of adjustment with the new cap so you should be golden around RT starting point but you could cut it long and cut again if you can't get enough sag/looseness.

Does that make sense?

 

[marke14]

I was going to say, are the '09s damping rod assemblies at the top of the fork unit?!

Cool invention for pre-load adjustment, I can definitely see the value in those. Again, do report back please!

 

[FinalImpact]

I think the challenge was accepted. . . .

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[motojoe122]

So, due to a slight over sight I cut the spacer to short and need more material. Any ideas?

 

[FinalImpact]

<<< The MotoJoe Visa card and order more?

But in the interim; others have used PVC. buy some schedule 80 vrs the schedule 40 and it should hold long enough for new to aluminum tube to arrive. Plus you can cut it with a chop saw if you have one. In 20' lengths the options are endless!

Sorry that went wrong. . .

 

[motojoe122]

<<< The MotoJoe Visa card and order more?

But in the interim; others have used PVC. buy some schedule 80 vrs the schedule 40 and it should hold long enough for new to aluminum tube to arrive. Plus you can cut it with a chop saw if you have one. In 20' lengths the options are endless!

Sorry that went wrong. . .

I used the motojoe visa today and ordered more pipe from RT. In the mean time I got marine grade SS spacers cut from a shop that makes towers for boats:thumbup:

BBBLLLIIIIIIIINNNGGGGG BABY:Flip:

 

[FinalImpact]

I used the motojoe visa today and ordered more pipe from RT. In the mean time I got marine grade SS spacers cut from a shop that makes towers for boats:thumbup:

BBBLLLIIIIIIIINNNGGGGG BABY:Flip:

INVISA - BBBLLLIIIIIIIINNNGGGGG BABY:Flip:

haha!

 

[RedBear]

Are there caps that would fit on standard fork and springs?

I would like is slightly harder front suspension.

 

[motojoe122]

Are there caps that would fit on standard fork and springs?

I would like is slightly harder front suspension.

You can try 10 or 12, maybe 15wt oil.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not to hijack the thread but a quick question...

My local shop has (maybe had now) a set of bent R6 folks complete.

Does anyone know if the caps (which I believe are adjustable like the above) would fit my FZ?

I don't re-call seeing any dampening adjusters on them as they were in the scrape pile, just the pre-load adjusters..

thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

The only thing we have going for us here is the OD of tube as I have no idea if that would fit or not.

FROM: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/36842-somethin-black.html#post461560

Sorry Scott, I don't know!
Thoughts on picking up the set and either finding more parts to install the whole thing or sell what doesn't work? That's an 04 R6 in the picture. Did I mention that was the best money I EVER spent on the bike? It truly transforms it into what it should have been all along! You should do it if your gonna keep'er!!!

Maybe not the mangled ones, but for 250 for good ones....:rockon:

Edit: lets compare as best we can...

 

[motojoe122]

HEY, where's your .02 for using my pic....royalties man! :BLAA:

Scott, do the fork swap! I tried the adjustable pre-load caps, RT springs, and 15wt oil....R6 forks are WAAAAAAY better!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For the riding I do, I'm pretty comfy with the stock set up. Rarely do I drag a peg, my foot maybe...

Randy, the pic with the caps next to each other, the left is an FZ and the blue right one from an R6?

I just happened to see those bent forks with the adjustable caps and wondered (my FJR had the same adjustable caps but silver)..

I may call them tomorrow as I can likely get them for free (if they still have them). The bottom needs to be similar obviously without that "built in extension".

Thank you!