Some Ingenuity Needed

[trepetti]

Getting ready to start my off-season maintenance on my 05 and all should be routine...planning to do a fork oil change (not sure if I will use 5 or 10wt), the FinalImpact spark plug cap fix, tb sync, and other non-exciting stuff.

But I have 1 challenge ahead. On the rear disk, 1 the hex bolts is rounded and still locktite'd in. The other bolts have been removed and re-torqued and can be removed normally. I have purchased all new bolts and plan to replace them and Blue-locktite them.

So, I have heard some ideas about how to remove my rounded fastener, but I love to hear what others have done.

Let me know if you have ever overcome something like this or just have an innovative idea.

Thanks

 

[Botch]

Do you have a Dremel tool? I've been able to use the thin ceramic cutoff disks to cut a slot into bolt heads, and use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove, a number of times in the past.
Good luck! I imagine, being its the brake pad, the bolt's gotten plenty hot and can really get stuck.

 

[Red Wazp]

Do you have a Dremel tool? I've been able to use the thin ceramic cutoff disks to cut a slot into bolt heads, and use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove, a number of times in the past.

+1 and perhaps a heat gun to heat the bolt

 

[CNY Fizzer]

Probably a little "Bush League" but I have had great luck with a Gator Grip socket. If you can remember these, it is the size of a spark plug socket (3/4") filled with moveable pins that adapt to any size bolt. I do not use this for normal work but it has come in handy many time for grabbing on to a destroyed bolt.

 

[Erci]

I've used combination of above (heat + Dremel'ed slot) to remove stripped screws with success. I've also used extractor bits where there wasn't enough material for Dremel approach.

 

[trepetti]

These are great thanks. The most interesting idea I got was to heat the bolt with a torch then hammer in a torx bit, but that sounds kinda caveman like. ☺

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[FinalImpact]

Often times as the head rounds out its material is still there. Take a flat round punch and a hammer and where its likely flared upwards and displaced, use the punch to hammer each of the six flats back down. Once mostly down, place the flat hardened punch square atop the fastener and hammer it down some more.

Usually this will make the actual inside diameter smaller and you'll have to hammer in the allen cap driver. Doing this also breaks the bond on the thread lock adhesive and more often than not your able to get these out without any cutting or grinding.


Also, if your bit is slight rounded off, grind the end squarely BUT DO NOT get the bit hot as it take the hardening away making it soft.

Of course worst case is you get a drill and just drill it out. Then vise grip the protruding stud off.

IIRC the rear disc has flush top countersunk bolts. So just pound the ridges back down. And you can also use a Smaller punch and force some of the metal into the hole making it even tighter for the bit going in.

Good luck!

PS - on the forks, simply draining them doesn't seem to get all the sediment out. Have some extra fluid handy and pump them many times. Dump. Repeat.

 

[Erci]

PS - on the forks, simply draining them doesn't seem to get all the sediment out. Have some extra fluid handy and pump them many times. Dump. Repeat.

+1! After dumping oil, pump 5-10 times and dump again. Repeat about 6-7 times. Saw this done by a pro suspension guy.
Collect the oil into graduated pitcher / cup so you know exactly how much to put back in :thumbup:

 

[Cameronhall]

stop by one of your local auto repair shop and tell then what you r problem is and the size of the nut. they have special sockets made just for that problem. warmthe nut and bolt with a hairdryer or place a sodering gun on the bolt to heat the loc tight and use the special socket on it you may have to beat the socket down on the bolt. the socket has grooves in it lke an inside out drill bit. same thing happen to me and it cost me nothing to fix. i even offer the shop 10 bucks and they said no problem. hope this helps

 

[trepetti]

+1! After dumping oil, pump 5-10 times and dump again. Repeat about 6-7 times. Saw this done by a pro suspension guy.

Collect the oil into graduated pitcher / cup so you know exactly how much to put back in :thumbup:

I planned on getting 2 liters of fork oil, so I should be able to do at least 2 flushes before the final fill. I am about 190-200 lbs without equipment and have stock springs. My suspension preferences in cars have always been softer springs and firmer damping. What problems do you think I will bring on with 10wt vs the 5wt?

 

[Erci]

I planned on getting 2 liters of fork oil, so I should be able to do at least 2 flushes before the final fill. I am about 190-200 lbs without equipment and have stock springs. My suspension preferences in cars have always been softer springs and firmer damping. What problems do you think I will bring on with 10wt vs the 5wt?

Well.. the rebound will definitely be much better (no more pogo-stick). Unfortunately since there is no separation in the dampers between rebound and compression, there will likely be more comp dampening than one would want. It *may* feel harsh in certain conditions.
Here's how I see it: fork oil is not that pricey and 1 quart is enough to redo both legs. It's worth a shot!

I wouldn't go too crazy flushing it either. By dumping all the oil out and then using the pump n dump trick, you should be able to get 98% of oil out. Unless the oil comes out completely black and full of metal shavings, flushing is overkill. Certainly won't hurt, but just really unnecessary, particularly on FZ6 with very simple, non-adjustable damping.

 

[Erci]

One more thing.. if 10 ends up being too harsh, but you end up liking the rebound, there's always 7.5 :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Well.. the rebound will definitely be much better (no more pogo-stick). Unfortunately since there is no separation in the dampers between rebound and compression, there will likely be more comp dampening than one would want. It *may* feel harsh in certain conditions.
Here's how I see it: fork oil is not that pricey and 1 quart is enough to redo both legs. It's worth a shot!

I wouldn't go too crazy flushing it either. By dumping all the oil out and then using the pump n dump trick, you should be able to get 98% of oil out. Unless the oil comes out completely black and full of metal shavings, flushing is overkill. Certainly won't hurt, but just really unnecessary, particularly on FZ6 with very simple, non-adjustable damping.

When I bought the R6 forks used, they were pretty nasty. Black and lots of tiny metallic bits. I flushed them well. 10,000 miles later, oil looked like new.

On the R6 forks, just inverting them won't allow much oil out beyond the initial dump, where as pumping the damping rod gets it into circulation while up right, let it sit and and then it can be dumped. Turn upright and repeat several times.

 

[trepetti]

OK. New logic...... My springs are too soft for my weight so addl compression dampning will be welcome. Sort of a poor mans spring replacement. I will likely use the 7.5 as a start and ride the season on it to evaluate.

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[FinalImpact]

OK. New logic...... My springs are too soft for my weight so addl compression dampning will be welcome. Sort of a poor mans spring replacement. I will likely use the 7.5 as a start and ride the season on it to evaluate.

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In that case - measure the front sag with bike all together and you on it, FULL weight. Then pop the caps and add about 3/8" to 1/2" of spacers under the caps to increase spring preload.

Mine saged 44mm stock 08 and me at 185lbs no gear. Add space until you hit 32 to 34mm and go ride. Should help.

PS - just poppin the caps, you don't have to do anything bug get them screwed down again. Not messing with fork oil or anything. It will help with less pogo action...

 

[yamihoe]

I have done all kinds of things to get bolts out, hammering on a socket, welding the socket to the bolt head, notching it and using the screwdriver, and even drilling it out

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have done all kinds of things to get bolts out, hammering on a socket, welding the socket to the bolt head, notching it and using the screwdriver, and even drilling it out

Plug welding (MIG)a nut to that stripped headed bolt should do it..

Between the heat of the welder and the very attached nut, it should spin right out...


BTW, why are you removing the disc anyway? New one?

 

[Jacky]

Extractor sockets are the go for removing rounded bolts. I bought a set years back for about $20, use them heaps to remove worn bolts in harvesters. Use some heat to soften the loctite. Most good tool shops will have them.

 

[greg]

i'd recommend getting a lot of heat in there, hopefully it should melt the loctite making it a lot easier to remove.

 

[trepetti]

Plug welding (MIG)a nut to that stripped headed bolt should do it..

Between the heat of the welder and the very attached nut, it should spin right out...


BTW, why are you removing the disc anyway? New one?

Thanks... As or the bolt replacement, it is the result of a learning experience. Last summer I needed to have a rear tire mounted in a hurry. I found a local BMW shop that would do it, and I was instructed to remove the wheel, then remove the sprocket and disk from the wheel. That didn't smell right, after all when you balance I was sure you wanted to have all the rotating mass involved. I challenged the instructions numerous times and was assured that this is how it is done. I deferred because he was the expert and I the student... So I went to remove the disk and rounded one of the fasteners. I eventually put it all back together and found a real shop to do the work. But in the meantime I ordered the new fasteners with the intention of replacing them all in the off season....