crofz
Junior Member
Well,...finally! :rockon:
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Small modification...
- Thread starter crofz
- Start date
Wildcat_drvr
Great-Grandpaw!
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Looks GOOD! Small Mod?
What isn't Modified?
Nice job.:rockon:
Rich
What isn't Modified?
Nice job.:rockon:
Rich
Nice job!
Did you do Write up along with the pics? We need detailsBlah
Did you do Write up along with the pics? We need detailsBlah
crofz
Junior Member
Thanks...
I don’t have it written up because all this lasted way to long before I started with these mods.
It was pending now for almost 3 years since I couldn’t find the time to lock myself in the garage … Mostly I’ve used guidelines from Forum members here that already done this kind of modifications…I have mostly store it in my “hard drive” so If there are any questions I can try to answer.
I don’t have it written up because all this lasted way to long before I started with these mods.
It was pending now for almost 3 years since I couldn’t find the time to lock myself in the garage
… Mostly I’ve used guidelines from Forum members here that already done this kind of modifications…I have mostly store it in my “hard drive” so If there are any questions I can try to answer.
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fazil
Junior Member
Looks very nice. Is it a R6 front end or R1?
Which year?
Which year?
crofz
Junior Member
R1 2002-2003 model 5PW
A couple questions:
- which stem? Is it R1 2002-2003 model 5PW?
- Do your steering stops and Lock still work?
- Fz6 front wheel or R1?
- R1 lock/ignition?? (edit)
A quick run down of parts used year/model, and any problems encountered would be great!
Looks like an awesome transformation! Good Job!
What shock on the rear? OEM or ??
- which stem? Is it R1 2002-2003 model 5PW?
- Do your steering stops and Lock still work?
- Fz6 front wheel or R1?
- R1 lock/ignition?? (edit)
A quick run down of parts used year/model, and any problems encountered would be great!
Looks like an awesome transformation! Good Job!
What shock on the rear? OEM or ??
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crofz
Junior Member
Thanks man,
1) stem is from FZ6 pressed in R1 triple, R1 2002-2003 year made, fork model 5PW
2) steering stops are still pending to be done (for now is without) and lock is working since I fabricated one piece that is inserted between lock/ingnitionon and upper triple mounting point (to have same size like original FZ6 upper tree)
3) front wheel is original FZ6
4) FZ6 original ignition
Shock is still OEM but in due time...
Part list will follow up, just need some time to remember
crofz
Junior Member
Here is the list of used parts of what I can remember;
Front:
R1 front fork complete 5PW (model 2002-2003)
FZ6 stem
Tapered bearings for steering
Custom made holder (support) for lock/ignition key
R1 front mudguard (still to be painted black)
FZ6 S2 brake calipers
Set of washers to match brake calipers
Goodridge breaking lines (made on request in workshop to match new bar)
Protaper handle bar
Rizoma risers
Rear:
FZ6 S2 swing arm
FZ6 S2 rear axle with chain tension blocks
Front:
R1 front fork complete 5PW (model 2002-2003)
FZ6 stem
Tapered bearings for steering
Custom made holder (support) for lock/ignition key
R1 front mudguard (still to be painted black)
FZ6 S2 brake calipers
Set of washers to match brake calipers
Goodridge breaking lines (made on request in workshop to match new bar)
Protaper handle bar
Rizoma risers
Rear:
FZ6 S2 swing arm
FZ6 S2 rear axle with chain tension blocks
crofz
Junior Member
one more photo...
crofz
Junior Member
Any suggestions how to upgrade rear suspension? This Ohlins and similar after markets are expensive...
I'm in doubt shall I go for some used R1 shock since the length is same as of the FZ6 but I saw here in some posts that spring needs to be changed.
Is there any other modification required in order installing R1 shock?
I'm in doubt shall I go for some used R1 shock since the length is same as of the FZ6 but I saw here in some posts that spring needs to be changed.
Is there any other modification required in order installing R1 shock?
I used an R1 but to get the most from it, it needs revalaved as ours has no linkage so the action is different.
Parts list and install is here R1 shock install w-pic Yes, if the rear spring you have now works, keep it. My sag ## were good so i used it but keep in mind i had to open the shock and revalve it. Thats more labor... Its effective and it works but its not for everyone.
Front has R6 forks and it rides well, a good way to spend money! Do keep in mind Ohlins isn't the only manufacture out thete.
Parts list and install is here R1 shock install w-pic Yes, if the rear spring you have now works, keep it. My sag ## were good so i used it but keep in mind i had to open the shock and revalve it. Thats more labor... Its effective and it works but its not for everyone.
Front has R6 forks and it rides well, a good way to spend money! Do keep in mind Ohlins isn't the only manufacture out thete.
crofz
Junior Member
What is the meaning of revalving the shock?
Is this only to install this preload adjuster to get more space for preloading the spring or something more?
Where did you get this preload adjuster and what is the price? I couldn't find the details on web...
Is this only to install this preload adjuster to get more space for preloading the spring or something more?
Where did you get this preload adjuster and what is the price? I couldn't find the details on web...
crofz
Junior Member
the front mud guard needs to be painted black...
crofz
Junior Member
Almost perfect...:thumbup:
crofz
Junior Member
Hopefully soon I'll try this mode...still collecting parts and info about.
It's in this link --> R1 shock install w-pic
SPRING: the spring is much lower rating than the FZ so the bike is going to drop ride height and loose travel unless you're super light with gear. Like 140-150'ish (lbs)... You could just install a new spring but I found the FZ spring was right for my weight. But the wrong length for proper installed height. Hence the new adjuster.
VALVING: Internal to the shock is oil valving that controls oil flow which sets the damping rates for compression and rebound. Some find it works OK as is. I found a suspension guy the redid the internal shim stack to alter the valving for our needs. Now the adjusters offer a wide range of effectiveness for both compression and rebound control. When installed as is, the controls can be "maxed out", without providing the proper damping rates for compression and rebound control. That's why I had it revalved internally.
PARTS: the adjustable collar came from RaceTec. It all in that thread...
crofz
Junior Member
Thanks FinalImpact…
I read your post several times and seems all clear but some things I don’t understand clearly.
R1 & FZ6 shocks are of same length eye to eye, thus meaning when the R1 shock is installed on FZ6 the lever will be exactly the same. Let’s forget for moment additional mods of adjustment on R1 compare to FZ6…The spring on R1 is soft compared to FZ6 spring…so when FZ6 spring (which is longer) is mounted on R1 shock we get little bit more compressed spring on the shock…so (correct me if I’m wrong) in the beginning we already have some preload on the spring. In addition to that we have dumping and rebound to be adjusted accordingly…looks better then original. So far all looks pretty straight and forward but considering my 6’2” and 235lbs without gear I’m not sure…The thing is I don’t have any master of suspension around my place so I’ll shall play by myself.
The preload adjuster is an option if I get it right. Is there any other maker for this collar adjuster except Racetech?
At the end is there anything that needs to be chopped of on the frame prior to mounting the R1 shock?
I want to keep the bikes frame in original condition as much as possible…
I read your post several times and seems all clear but some things I don’t understand clearly.
R1 & FZ6 shocks are of same length eye to eye, thus meaning when the R1 shock is installed on FZ6 the lever will be exactly the same. Let’s forget for moment additional mods of adjustment on R1 compare to FZ6…The spring on R1 is soft compared to FZ6 spring…so when FZ6 spring (which is longer) is mounted on R1 shock we get little bit more compressed spring on the shock…so (correct me if I’m wrong) in the beginning we already have some preload on the spring. In addition to that we have dumping and rebound to be adjusted accordingly…looks better then original. So far all looks pretty straight and forward but considering my 6’2” and 235lbs without gear I’m not sure…The thing is I don’t have any master of suspension around my place so I’ll shall play by myself.
The preload adjuster is an option if I get it right. Is there any other maker for this collar adjuster except Racetech?
At the end is there anything that needs to be chopped of on the frame prior to mounting the R1 shock?
I want to keep the bikes frame in original condition as much as possible…
For best riding characteristics we need the proper spring rate to support us. In my case, the OEM stock FZ spring is actually pretty close to correct. To use it, it must be installed AND have the proper Preload applied.
Point: if you measure the bikes static sag and then have a helper measure the rear sag with you on the bike, you can asses if the OEM spring is up to the task of being used. At 23# plus gear that may be asking it bit much.
If I were you; set the stock spring to preload 6 and 7 and measure both bike and rider sag. Then we determine what spring you need for your application.
That is; if you need a new spring, you order a spring that fits the other coil over shock. But we use the FZ application to determine spring rates.
First, get the bike sag #. How much the bike settles under its own weight. i.e. from shock fully extended, to just holding its own weight measure from the axle to a piece of tape applied by the grab handle.
Now repeat, but with you on the bike in full gear and have someone measure the same points.
Do each 3 times and round them to be sure. Then use on online calculator and see what rate # sounds best for you. Racetec and others have calculators.
As for opening the shock, I could and we could, but I have no way to pressurize it again. It needs like 150 to 175 PSI of nitrogen. Plus you have manipulate the shim stack in the valve. Thats a big wild guess I can't help you with. You could send the shock to the guy who did mine. It is an option.
EDIT: no, I didn't do anything to the frame. I bent a wire loom tab out of the way thats it. Everything else can be put back stock. As you saw I did cut holes in the plastic to access the damping adjusters. Some won't go there and do what I did as its tedious. I moved the ECM tray up a few mm but it allowed the under seat storage to remain intact and the huger didn't get a big hole chopped in. If you follow that thread and gather and do the actions in the order shown, the guess work is done.
EDIT2: So, it looks like 14.3 is the number to aim for.
2008 FZ6 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 50mm (1.97")
Setting #1 light: 175.2mm (6.90")
Setting #7 firm: 165.8mm (6.53")
Installed length MANUAL SAYS: 172.0 mm (6.77 in), doesn't say what setting tho, suspect #3.
Range of preload: 9.4mm (0.37")
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.76mm (0.463")
Spring free length 185.0 mm (7.28")
Spring rate K1: 12.99 kgf/mm (727.45 lb/in), 127.40 N/mm
Point: if you measure the bikes static sag and then have a helper measure the rear sag with you on the bike, you can asses if the OEM spring is up to the task of being used. At 23# plus gear that may be asking it bit much.
If I were you; set the stock spring to preload 6 and 7 and measure both bike and rider sag. Then we determine what spring you need for your application.
That is; if you need a new spring, you order a spring that fits the other coil over shock. But we use the FZ application to determine spring rates.
First, get the bike sag #. How much the bike settles under its own weight. i.e. from shock fully extended, to just holding its own weight measure from the axle to a piece of tape applied by the grab handle.
Now repeat, but with you on the bike in full gear and have someone measure the same points.
Do each 3 times and round them to be sure. Then use on online calculator and see what rate # sounds best for you. Racetec and others have calculators.
As for opening the shock, I could and we could, but I have no way to pressurize it again. It needs like 150 to 175 PSI of nitrogen. Plus you have manipulate the shim stack in the valve. Thats a big wild guess I can't help you with. You could send the shock to the guy who did mine. It is an option.
EDIT: no, I didn't do anything to the frame. I bent a wire loom tab out of the way thats it. Everything else can be put back stock. As you saw I did cut holes in the plastic to access the damping adjusters. Some won't go there and do what I did as its tedious. I moved the ECM tray up a few mm but it allowed the under seat storage to remain intact and the huger didn't get a big hole chopped in. If you follow that thread and gather and do the actions in the order shown, the guess work is done.
EDIT2:
So, it looks like 14.3 is the number to aim for.2008 FZ6 Rear Shock:
Eye to eye: 300 mm (11.82")
Travel: 50mm (1.97")
Setting #1 light: 175.2mm (6.90")
Setting #7 firm: 165.8mm (6.53")
Installed length MANUAL SAYS: 172.0 mm (6.77 in), doesn't say what setting tho, suspect #3.
Range of preload: 9.4mm (0.37")
Coil OD: 77.6mm (3.055")
Coil Dia: 11.76mm (0.463")
Spring free length 185.0 mm (7.28")
Spring rate K1: 12.99 kgf/mm (727.45 lb/in), 127.40 N/mm
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crofz
Junior Member
Thanks FinalImpact for these guidelines...
I'll try to follow up and eventually finish this project, hah...now some preparation should be done so it'll take some time before starting tearing apart the rear.
I'll try to follow up and eventually finish this project, hah...now some preparation should be done so it'll take some time before starting tearing apart the rear.
