Shopping for R6 forks

[beatle]

I'm planning to do the R6 fork mod so I've been checking out ebay and CL for parts. The complete assemblies in good shape are expensive @ $400+. There are a few that are bent which I would say are garbage, and then there are a few that look ok, but have leaks. I've read that seals are replacable. How is the work for that? Will I invest more into the specialty tools I will need to replace the seals than I would to just buy good forks to begin with?

 

[fazil]

Check R6 forum site. R6 riders often part their bikes out.

Yamaha R6 : R6 Forum

 

[aclayonb]

I bought a leaking set and replaced the seals. I fabricated a holder-tool that ended up being way more painful than just buying the $40 motion pro tool. If you don't have that tool, you can't hold the inner fork guts still while you unscrew that bolt from the bottom of the fork slider. I did use a homemade seal driver (PVC) and it worked just fine. If I had to do it again, I would buy the fork tool and not look back.

As for the forks - I never found a used set under $400 that didn't have a little rash or some minor defect. I went with a sets that had some minor rash for $200. The first two sets I ended up returning due to the forks being bent. If the seller hasn't removed them from the triple for photographs, I would be careful. Both sets were bent at the triples but claimed to be "straight".

edit: Fazil has a better idea. Ignore ebay.

 

[MattR302]

If you get a set with bent upper tubes, I have a set of straight upper tubes and internals I'd sell you. I managed to screw up the lower tubes by holding them in a vise when changing the fork seals.

 

[thisisbenji]

I'm going through this myself right now. I have one fork that's in super good shape, but I'v been having a hard time getting a second leg that isn't destroyed.

 

[ANLR21]

FinalImpact and others have some great write-ups and pics on this forum on the R6 conversion, just do a search. Replacing seals is not a big deal, but if you're going to do it, replace the fork bushings as well since you're in there.

You can buy specialty tools, the write-ups you'll find here will describe several ways of accomplishing the various tasks with and without. I've done a number of seals/bushings over the years, the right tools certainly make it easier, safer and with less damage potential, but not critical unless you're doing it all the time.

Take your time. Find a friend that's done it before for moral support, supervision, whatever if you can

 

[beatle]

Yes, those threads are incredibly helpful for when it comes time to do the fork swap, however there is less information about replacing fork seals. When suspension parts start to leak on my car or truck, I replace the whole damper.

 

[FinalImpact]

Go to R6messanger.net (guess) you'll find the OEM FSM there.
Seals and bushing are pretty easy on the R6.

• Top Dust seal peals out with a screw driver, just like the FZ.
• Remove snap ring retaining inner seal. (FZ)
• Remove Top cap. (FZ) be sure to BACK OUT (turn CCW) Compression adjuster NOW!
• Loosen and remove cap from damper rod. Return to 11mm threads showing (nut depth). This is Critical!!!! You'll See!
• Remove and keep in order: cap, washer, spacer, spring, washer, etc.
• Tube collapsed, take two long wooden splines (Square or rectangle) and shove them into the stanchion tube binding the cartridge to the stanchion.
• Remove 10mm cap bolt from fork bottom.
• You can hold the tubes in the air and just do like 5 quick extensions and the seals come out.
• Now replace the bushings. Stanchion bushing just slide off.
• Outer tube body may need cut out with a bushing cutter. You'll need a flat driver to install it. Its pretty easy tho. Be sure to seat it all the way.
• Clean lower tube.
• MAKE CERTAIN THE BOTTOM OUT BUMPER IS SEATED AND ROTATED PROPERLY!!! When the cartridge seats it can damage it. Its usually stuck in the body by goop and sediment. It can be picked out and cleaned. Use a dab of grease to hold it in the body before inserting the cartridge.

The basics are pack the seals lips with grease and don't over stroke the damper rod when filling. 4.8" travel max of 5 - 7.5wt oil. Track use, use 5wt. Fill level is stroke length and little more if the springs are weak. But start there and test drive.

Reassemble in reverse. You'll need a seal driver. I made one from PVC pipe cutting 8" slices up a 2" ID piece of pipe. The slices allow it to shank down to size. BE SURE THE WASHER IS ON TOP OF THE SEAL BEFORE DRIVING so you don't damage the seal.

Grab the manual. Its all in there...

 

[motojoe122]

Check R6 forum site. R6 riders often part their bikes out.

Yamaha R6 : R6 Forum

Yup, that's where I found mine.

 

[imatt]

I watched eBay almost everyday for a few weeks. Finally someone was parting out a whole 04 r6 that only had 6xxx miles on it. Managed to get the forks and the axle for $250 shipped. The forks Look mint and seals have been great so far. Before I installed them I serviced them with maxima 5wt. Put them on the bike at the end of March and already nearing 5.5k miles. Definitely one of the most satisfying improvements that can be done for our bikes, especially if you daily drive it.

If you have time to wait you will eventually find a deal, if not I think I would be willing to spend a little more than I did, if I had to do it all over again.

 

[vr46fan]

Do we need an r6 axle or will the fz axle work?

 

[LERecords]

Just a heads up... you will need wheel spacers and such. I have all the info in one place:

FZ6 - R6 Fork Mod

good luck on your swap and post pics!!

 

[motojoe122]

Do we need an r6 axle or will the fz axle work?

You need the R6S axle too.

 

[vr46fan]

Just a heads up... you will need wheel spacers and such. I have all the info in one place:

FZ6 - R6 Fork Mod

good luck on your swap and post pics!!

Why do the braided lines need to be from an 04-06 as opposed to an S2?

 

[beatle]

My guess is that the 04-06 brake lines are slightly longer. The recommendation for braided may come from that fact that you might as well upgrade the lines while you're doing the work.

 

[imatt]

I use s2 ss galfers with no issues. Bought and used them before the conversion. No problems with r6 forks and the fender relocation kit I bought off a member here who makes the brackets.

 

[vr46fan]

Good to know. Galfer are what I am looking at. I was planning on upgrading anyways, but it makes sense to do it all at once.

 

[beatle]

What oil is everyone using on their R6 forks? I've only found FinalImpact's preferred oil weight of 7.5. He's only got me by about 10 lbs, so I think we may be pretty close. Anyone sticking with stock (5wt) or go up to 10wt?

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ The forks really don't need anything more than 5 wt as the valving will do what others try to do with higher wt oil in the FZ forks.

However, the roads here are so rough the 7.5wt mitigates instantaneous transmission of chop and shock to the bike, but 10wt is too much and not needed. I had it so I used it one season short season.

Smooth roads - use 5wt and I'd stick with Yamaha products as its an APPLES TO APPLES comparison. Not all oils are the same.