Seat wiggles. Is this normal?

[Biggie_B]

Seat wiggle(d). Now my turn signal does. SMH

Good evening ladies and gentlemen. I recently purchased a 2006 FZ6. Is the front of the seat supposed to latch on to the body of the bike? I presume the answer is yes. I ask because the front of my seat can be pulled up, wiggles if you put pressure on it, and does not appear to be tethered to the frame. Is this normal? The back latches via the key-lock mechanism. I have attached pictures of the underseat. Is the culprit the plastic hinge which appears to be partly broken? Thanks.

EDIT: SEE POST BELOW FOR NEW PROBLEM.

 

[oaks]

Yes, that plastic tab under the front of the seat should slide into that slot shown in this pic before you press down and latch the back half of the seat.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, that plastic tab under the front of the seat should slide into that slot shown in this pic before you press down and latch the back half of the seat.

+1^^^^. That tab, on yours, looks like it riding above that steel cutout on the frame just behind the gas tank hinge.

You may to bend that plastic tab down some to get it inserted. If your in a hurry, its NOT hard to miss that slot and then have the issues your having...

 

[Biggie_B]

+1^^^^. That tab, on yours, looks like it riding above that steel cutout on the frame just behind the gas tank hinge.

You may to bend that plastic tab down some to get it inserted. If your in a hurry, its NOT hard to miss tha slot and then have the issues your having...

Yes, that tab is definitely riding ABOVE the steal cutout, instead of in it. Thanks for the heads up and advice. I will also measure the plastic hinge to make sure a piece did not break off.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I doubt it broke off, its pretty stout plastic.

I've done that with my seat once or twice when not paying attention..

I actually have a light layer of grease inbetween the seat and that hold down that makes installation a bit easier.

 

[Biggie_B]

First and foremost, thanks for the advice, bending the plastic piece did the trick. :thumbup: In the process, however, I dropped the bike and busted my left turn signal. Long story short, the bike was in my driveway and as I was thrusting the seat into the frame, the bike moved forward, the kick stand disengaged, and the bike fell over on it's side. Total amateur move and I feel like a silly goose. Lesson learned, I should have left the bike in gear and I should have bent the plastic piece a bit more (or oiled it) instead of forcing the issue. The end result is that the fairing is cracked (see pics below) and that the turn signal hangs loose. It looks like the fairing which houses the turn signal broke off (see pics) and is now stuck onto the turn signal stalk. A)How much would this cost to fix and B) Does anyone have any homegrown solution? Would crazy glue work?

Hopefully I don't break something else trying to fix the turn signal. lol

 

[oaks]

Ugh! From bad to worse. Don't beat yourself up ... we've all had our moments like that.

I'm no help with repairing the plastics. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Unfortunately they aren't cheap to replace. The COWLING 1 and FLASHER LIGHT drawings should point to parts you'd need. Parts labeled DRMK are red.

COWLING 1

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

I've never had any luck using super glue.That being said there is a world of differance between good S-glue and cheap S-glue.If you try it, go to a hobby store and buy good glue,look at the date on it,fresher is better. Roughening the back and putting some carbon-fiber or fiberglass threads across the break.Epoxy would propably work better.Best would be find out what kind of plastic it's made with and get some solvent for it.Oh,and don't forget your haz-mat suit and breathing apparatus! Blah Good luck! Rich PS:We need a chemical engineer! :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Damn.. $hit happens.

Too late now but re the seat, bend that tab down until it slips in easily, your shouldn't have to wrestle with it.

Re the fairing, its $287 new: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V COWLING 1 Diagram From your pic's, your directionals mount differently from the 07 and up

My right directional mount, when I bought the bike was boke off. The plastic tabs inside the fairing,(that you don't have) where the steel arm screwed to, were snapped off. One or two small holes and zip tie's were the temp fix. In your case, if you can pull that base in tight, then some zip ties around the part inside the fairing may work...

If you can and want to live with the crack, simply replacing the stocker directionals with aftermarket directionals that attach direct /flat to the fairing are an option.

** Note, most aftermarket directionals DON'T have a running light, simply directionals. I have rear recently here of an LED WITH RUNNING LIGHTS and the converter was built inside (so there wasn't much re-wiring for LEDs)

IMO, when you can afford it, I'd replace the fairing as that crack will hurt the retail value of the bike. Keep an eye in the "For sale" section as well.

 

[Biggie_B]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I have started the crazy glue project, but need to remove the outer cowling from the inner cowling to have complete access to the point where the turn signal broke off from the plastic. As you can see from the pics, the turn signal sits in the outer cowling. I removed a few screws which connect the inner and outer, but they are still hinged at the front (or apex) near the headlight. Is there a hidden screw somewhere? Can this piece be removed without taking apart the entire front end (windshield, etc...). Here are a few pics for a reference point as to what I'm talking about. Thanks in advance.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not familiar with the S1 front cowl (I've had my S2 off-replaced it). I also can't tell if you have the mirrors off. I know on my S2, there is a screw dead center in the VERY FRONT middle.

IMO, if you can simply tape off the area you now have access to, it may be easier, that is if you have access to the broken area..

 

[92Bit]

If I remember correctly, you do have to remove the windscreen. I believe the screw holding the 'nose' of the windscreen coming up from the bottom of the fairing assembly holds the outer fairing in place. The front fairing assembly is fairly easy to disassemble and it never hurts to learn in case you need to do it again in the future. Heck, while your in there I would recommend doing the headlight mod.

 

[FinalImpact]

On the S2, pop the inner fairing, undue the harness connectors, then 2 bolts on the fairing stay at the steering head and it comes off like so (below).

As for repair, The material is not fiberglass per say and although you can use the fiber, the standard resin that comes with it won't bond as well as the correct resin. Look for SMC products but I may be mistaken. 3M SMC-FRP Repair - 1 08270 It has to do with the plastic or polymer content. The glass resin like that of an old boat hull is not the same as this polymer part so SMC is a better choice.

Lets say you have a 4" long break or crack. There are two approaches to repair it. Using a rough grinding disc, grind out at least 2/3 of the depth from the inside about an 1" wide on both sides of the crack. Mix your SMC resin, apply it, and then lay down some mat. Repeat quickly so as to build up the ground down section. Of course make sure the parts are aligned BEFORE doing this. Fog some color over it and call it fixed.

The proper way is to grind and fill from both sides so the crack does not take off again. However, now you have to use primers, fillers, color coat, and clear. Likely far more involved than throwing some patch on the inside. PS - used to repair fiberglass jet ski hulls. Many of those are SMC resin also....

 

[Biggie_B]

Crazy glue project complete. Looks brand new, minus the scratches on the turning signal. Have rode the bike a few times since fixing it and hit a few good sized bumps on the road going at a good rate of speed. It still holds, and I hope it stays that way. Cheap fix worked.