Shinn
Junior Member
Before doing any spring changes ride it before you decide. I had 1.00's in my bike then added the intiminators and I was shocked the bike was almost like a piece of 2x4 up front, stiffer then a tree.
Ricor Intiminator fork mod
- Thread starter mcteague
- Start date
rypsis
Junior Member
Yeah, that sounds like a plan.
What about the fork oil weight? If Ricor says to use 5W oil and the stock oil is also 5W, wouldn't you be stuck with the original damping curve (as was previously stated)?
If you used lighter oil, the stock damping wouldn't be limiting you, but will the Intiminator work correctly anymore?
What oil are you running and have you drilled your damping rod holes/orifices/whaddaya-call-em?
What about the fork oil weight? If Ricor says to use 5W oil and the stock oil is also 5W, wouldn't you be stuck with the original damping curve (as was previously stated)?
If you used lighter oil, the stock damping wouldn't be limiting you, but will the Intiminator work correctly anymore?
What oil are you running and have you drilled your damping rod holes/orifices/whaddaya-call-em?
PhotoAl
Junior Member
They are on sale for $179, it's about time to change the oil again and this looks like a simple change with better control. Changed my fork oil for a heavier weight and like the difference but don't want to go too stiff on the front so stock springs and the intiminators are enticing.
Hmmm. . . . steeper than I thought at $179, but if it works well it would be worth it too many I suspect.
As for dumping the fork oil - i think it takes longer to find a stack of wood to support the bike. Calipers, wheel/axle, triple clamp and walla, forks are off for fresh oil. . .
rypsis
Junior Member
Shinn
Junior Member
Great questions. I will look into the scientific answer, as I have no idea. But as far as my butt on the seat answer, I went with a 10wt after trying 5 and 7.5 as well. I found the 10 still allowed the forks to move and feel normal with my springs and intiminators. Never drilled anything as I was told by my mechanic that it wouldn't actually help with intiminators.
And now for the science in my less then technical terms of which I just looked up and hope I am comprehending right. The thicker the oil, the greater the time it takes for the chambers to refill or it can cause air pockets and not having the forks reset in time for the next bump (hence the term rebound). On the other side, the thicker oil takes longer to push through the compression holes making the fork stiffer.
So if I am comprehending this correctly, ricor suggests 5w in order for the fork to still move freely into the chamber and past the intiminator and still work for rebound. Less weight oil will make the rebound faster, but also make the compression harder on the intiminator and as such the fork should dive a little faster. Now I am going to test this as soon as my snow melts in 2-3 months. Love the questions, lets keep going!!
And now for the science in my less then technical terms of which I just looked up and hope I am comprehending right. The thicker the oil, the greater the time it takes for the chambers to refill or it can cause air pockets and not having the forks reset in time for the next bump (hence the term rebound). On the other side, the thicker oil takes longer to push through the compression holes making the fork stiffer.
So if I am comprehending this correctly, ricor suggests 5w in order for the fork to still move freely into the chamber and past the intiminator and still work for rebound. Less weight oil will make the rebound faster, but also make the compression harder on the intiminator and as such the fork should dive a little faster. Now I am going to test this as soon as my snow melts in 2-3 months. Love the questions, lets keep going!!
major tom
Junior Member
Nice post, Please keep us informed after the snow melts which should be soon for you!
vinmansbrew
Junior Member
Interested in this system. I know the r6 allows external adjustments but decent r6 forks are going for over $200 now and that is in so-so condition.
Plus I have not noticed a real deficiency in the fz fork. but then coming from 1978 and 84 bikes, well things have changed some!
Plus I have not noticed a real deficiency in the fz fork. but then coming from 1978 and 84 bikes, well things have changed some!
My interpretation is this:
You need the proper spring rate for your riding style and weight. AND the lower viscosity oils change less (get thinner) as the temperature increases so that may explain a little about why it is used often from the OEM application stand point?? idk
To light of spring the valving is over run with too much travel to quickly (think rate) and you simply don't have enough compression with a fixed damping to make up for the wrong spring. Going the other way - too strong of spring and the dampening is ineffective as its not used if the suspension doesn't compress (rate is too high).
Above someone wrote that their bikes rode like it had 2 X 4s for forks (Stiff boards) as it was fitted with 1.0 springs (rider weight unknown).
The FZs rate starts at like .77 and goes up as it compresses. The R6 starts at 0.88 and is a fixed rate as it compresses. I thought this would be too little for the added weight the FZ brings (+90lbs) and me being 185lbs w/out gear. But to my surprise it rides AWESOME!
I'd start with a fixed rate spring of .90 for the riders in my weight and try the 5wt to get a base line.
Hopefully both ends of the bike will compress and rebound near the same amount and at the same rate when set properly.