(Resolved) Abnormal wear of rear brake hanger. What have I done? Help!

Nelly

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Yep will look out for those cables, thanks guys.
Neil

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Nelly

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Re: Abnormal wear of rear brake hanger. What have I done? Help!

I have fitted the chain and sprockets using the DID tool, this guy has done a superb how to:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isWYsAnZ4jQ&feature=related]DID chain tool review and tutorial - YouTube[/ame]
I couldn't make head nor tail of the written instructions so this video was a real life saver.
I was amazed at how much you need to torque it up to press the new plate on and push the pins through. You need the same amount of force to get them to mushroom. I would like to know what the actual levels of torque are to push the pins through and to mushroom the rivets. I might send DID an e-mail.
What is the best way to do the first lube? Do I just spray on my usual chain lube or do I need to soak it in a lighter weight oil first?

As for the hanger that is no longer a problem, the clearance is as it should be and no rubbing. I can only guess that my extremely worn and knacked chain was causing the problem as the run out was way over spec.

Neil:thumbup:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re: Abnormal wear of rear brake hanger. What have I done? Help!

I have fitted the chain and sprockets using the DID tool, this guy has done a superb how to:
DID chain tool review and tutorial - YouTube
I couldn't make head nor tail of the written instructions so this video was a real life saver.
I was amazed at how much you need to torque it up to press the new plate on and push the pins through. You need the same amount of force to get them to mushroom. I would like to know what the actual levels of torque are to push the pins through and to mushroom the rivets. I might send DID an e-mail.
What is the best way to do the first lube? Do I just spray on my usual chain lube or do I need to soak it in a lighter weight oil first?

As for the hanger that is no longer a problem, the clearance is as it should be and no rubbing. I can only guess that my extremely worn and knacked chain was causing the problem as the run out was way over spec.

Neil:thumbup:

Yep, that rivet will never fall off Neil...

As for the chain, it should be pre-greased. You can spray some lube over it (don't really have to initially), wipe off excess (as normal).

Start cleaning/lubing as normal, at normal intervals.

BTW, about every third or so chain lubeing, I pull that cover and clean under there. Its much easier keeping after it once the heavy crap is off...
 

Nelly

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Re: Abnormal wear of rear brake hanger. What have I done? Help!

Thanks,
The chain is pre-greased, I will lube it in a week as per normal.
Thanks for all the input,

Neil
 

Nelly

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The abnormal wear was caused by a warped disk. The outer edge had become uniformly misaligned with the inner edge approx 1.5mm. When I placed the disk on a sheet of glass I didn't notice it until I turned the disk over.
I would like to thank everyone who tried to help me rectify the problem, and in doing so made me more confident and competent with a spanner.
I replaced the disk today along with the pads, brake fluid, and new seals.
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Neil

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TownsendsFJR1300

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Excellent!! Nice to know what the true problem/fix was.

Never would have thought that disc would warp that much but, learn something new everyday... Perhaps the brake was dragging a bit, keeping the disc hot, you hit some water on the disc and it warped..??

Back brakes look nice and clean with new seals and all cleaned up too! great job!

Now your ready to do the fronts when needed but will need a bunch more seals and patience bleeding!!

:thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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When the float part of "floating caliper" stopped, the disc lost the battle. Because it happened slowly over time, it didn't complain much and went into the "conform" mode until it was bent enough to rub the hanger.

I never would of thought it would and not be apparent to the eye so a good reason to check everything. . .

Glad its fixed and you got it all back together Neil. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

Nelly

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I feel such a nugget for only testing one side of the disk. Had I flipped the disk 180 degrees I could have saved you all tons of time. Still I'm a better mechanic because of it. Just looking for some front disks on ebay. The run out on the disks are 4.7 and 4.9 mm respectively. I will also do steel lines whils I'm there. But will save it till spring.
Cheers Randy and Scott, two lads that were there from the beginning.
Neil

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TownsendsFJR1300

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I feel such a nugget for only testing one side of the disk. Had I flipped 180 I could have saved you all tons of time. Still I'm a better mechanic because of it. Just looking for some front disks on ebay. The run out on the disks are 4.7 and 4.9 mm respectively. I will also do steel lines whils I'm there. But will save it till spring.
Cheers Randy and Scott, to lads that were there from the beginning.
Neil

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The actual run out is 4.7 mm or about 1/4"?????? That's got to be the actual thickness of the disc...if not, holy crap...

The manual calls for max run out of the front disc: .1mm,

The actual thickness for ALL DISC's limits of 4.5mm's
 

Nelly

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Scott I would have to say that lack of brake. Lack of piston slide maintainence is likey the key. It was gonig on for a good while and I did not notice it until I posted this thread.
Neil

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Nelly

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I'm getting run out and thickness confused. I measured the thickness of the disk at the outter edge.

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Nelly

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My digital callipers and volt meter arrived today. I will read the instructions and give the disk an accurate measure.

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TownsendsFJR1300

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I'm getting run out and thickness confused. I measured the thickness of the disk at the outter edge.

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No problem.. BTW, Runout is how far out the disc literally goes back and forth(wobble)... Tolerance #'s is how much the factory allows for the variance.

Usually, once the caliper quits moving and centering itself, it often goes thru one pad faster than the other side but, in either case, it heats up alot more than it should and you found out the results...

Its resoved and that's what counts!!!:thumbup:
 
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