Replacing r/r

[FinalImpact]

No, I hadn't seen that before and really, how often will you see 14.5 volts at the battery? I gather the 14.9 spec is # to keep no more than(as a max figure), correct?

As you mentioned, if its charging, its running, and there is a load, always, lights, FI, pump, etc.

^^ True. So, when we see a number > 14.9, the shunt regulator has likely been damaged. What I'm curious about is track bikes with no load (LAMPS). That means the shunt is dissipating allot more watts internally to "CLAMP" or limit voltage unless its MOSFET which could handle it better in a switching mode.

Mine can run pretty high. Not that one bike makes it the norm.... Just reporting what mine does (Seen it at 14.4V at idle).

Doing the math = 14.4V / 6 cells = 2.4 volts per cell
POINT: if its doing this too often my battery should be boiled dry. But its still kickin!

A short read from: Lead–acid_battery

These are general voltage ranges per cell:
Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 2.10 V
Open-circuit at full discharge: 1.95 V
Loaded at full discharge: 1.75 V
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 2.23 V for gelled electrolyte; 2.25 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 2.32 V for flooded cells.
All voltages are at 20 °C (68 °F), and must (for a 6 cell battery) be adjusted by ~ −0.0235 V/°C for temperature changes.
Float voltage recommendations vary among manufacturers.
Precise float voltage (±0.05 V) is critical to longevity; insufficient voltage (causes sulfation) is almost as detrimental as excessive voltage (causing corrosion and electrolyte loss)
Typical (daily) charging: 2.37–2.4 V (depending on temperature and manufacturer's recommendation)
Equalization charging (for flooded lead acids): 2.5 V for no more than 2 Hours. Battery temperature must be absolutely monitored.
Gassing threshold: 2.4 V

That 2.32 V/PC comes to 2.32 V/per cell X 6 Cells = 13.92 V

 

[yourebarred]

Would a solution be to run the headlight mod but also keep the battery on an optimate when not in use?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Would a solution be to run the headlight mod but also keep the battery on an optimate when not in use?

I have the headlight mod (literally for years) and have checked voltages at different RPM's. My battery is about 3.5 years old (and will be due for replacement),

I used to keep my idle at 1000 RPMs, a little smoother idle, more engine braking, etc, however, at 1,000 RPMs, I was running off the battery (NOT charging). Where I live I don't have to often idle, so it was very minimal and the battery got charged once moving.

Cranking your idle up to where it should be, even with the dual head light mod, I was charging the battery, easily (low 13's-above the standard 12.8 volt of a good battery sitting still). Not a lot, but charging.

I actually strapped a volt meter to my fairing to test (and ride). You'd be surprised, at 2,500 RPM's, your getting very high 13 volts.

With that said, I currently have my idle set at about 1,100 (no fan running), and am just charging, NOT DISCHARGING...

Is the charger needed, not really..

If you do some research on Yuasa, any of the top manufacturers, I've found them to say to CHARGE the battery occasionally for longer life.

On my failing battery (I have a new one that just needs filling to go in), I charge it maybe once every two weeks on an Optimate. The battery is going longer than I expected and is still going...

From Yuasa; Yuasa Batteries - FAQ's

Please read "usage" and the last sentence re the "KILL SWITCH"

 

[yourebarred]

Ok cool. Well, I'm going to run with my new MOSFET, put the mod back on, charge it when I'm at work, can't charge at home sadly, and STOP using the kill switch!