Removing front wheel...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm curious about this too as I'm about to remove the wheels. How does the extension fit into the spark plug hole? Do I remove the plastic that holds spark plugs?

Yes, the inside material needs to be removed so you can get the extension in.

And you should remove the calipers BEFORE or your scratch the snot out of your wheel..






Or, if you have a welder, make your own tool (3/4" bolt, washer and nut welded together) :

 

[arronjackson]

I have been reading about this technique at many places but I am unable to get the extension rod to lock on to the square groove on the other side (right side to lock on to the socket). There is a round hole through which the extension does not go through; am I missing something? BTW, I have removed the rubber plug grip that helps to hold on plugs and still I am unable to lock on the extension rod.

I'm stuck here as well. Might have to go buy a different spark plug socket or just see if they have the 19mm spindle key for sale at Canadian Tire...

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[FinalImpact]

I'm stuck here as well. Might have to go buy a different spark plug socket or just see if they have the 19mm spindle key for sale at Canadian Tire...

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Lets not forget this. A steel 3/4" coupling nut is $1.00 at the hardware store.... click pic image here...

 

[fmf]

I'm stuck here as well. Might have to go buy a different spark plug socket or just see if they have the 19mm spindle key for sale at Canadian Tire...

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I did the same thing the first time that I bought a socket for this. You have to make sure that it is square through and through. I forget where I finally found one, but I want to say auto zone.

 

[arronjackson]

Lets not forget this. A steel 3/4" coupling nut is $1.00 at the hardware store.... click pic image here...

Thanks a ton for this, went to a fasteners shop and picked it up for exactly what you said. However a 3/4" coupling nut is bigger, I think it refers to the thread. Either way I brought in the spark plug socket and they measured it and found the right one.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks a ton for this, went to a fasteners shop and picked it up for exactly what you said. However a 3/4" coupling nut is bigger, I think it refers to the thread. Either way I brought in the spark plug socket and they measured it and found the right one.

Just an FYI, the 3/4" is the ID of the axle or the OD of the coupler

Its NOT the thread size,, that'd be 1/2"

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks a ton for this, went to a fasteners shop and picked it up for exactly what you said. However a 3/4" coupling nut is bigger, I think it refers to the thread. Either way I brought in the spark plug socket and they measured it and found the right one.

You now have an extra nut, which is bigger than the one you had before! :thumbup:

At least you had a backup plan!
Now get the wheel off!

 

[arronjackson]

You now have an extra nut, which is bigger than the one you had before![emoji106]
At least you had a backup plan!
Now get the wheel off!

Wheel's off! Both of em. Took about an hour to get it all done and get another jack under there.

I'm going to be plasti dipping both rims. I'd like to take the calipers off but I don't want to mess anything up or take things off if I don't have to. Do you have any tips or things I should watch out for in terms of balancing or things that are difficult to put back together?

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

You pulled the calipers BEFORE you pulled the front wheel correct? (Makes it WAY EASIER for space and you won't tear up your rim).

Un-less you have a reason to actually remove the calipers, I'd just bolt them loosely to the forks while the wheels are out.
You can clean the crap stuck to the pistons while their out in the open with brake cleaner, tooth brush, shoe string. (FI will post some pic's or do a search.)

Block one side so the pistons don't come out, then use the brake lever to pump out the other side pistons for better access.


Even better, I'd replace the brake seals while your that deep and waiting on the wheels to come back. You can clean everything
much easier once apart.

Yamaha calls for seal replacement every TWO YEARS, but in real life, 4-5 years before they harden up...

 

[arronjackson]

You pulled the calipers BEFORE you pulled the front wheel correct? (Makes it WAY EASIER for space and you won't tear up your rim).

Un-less you have a reason to actually remove the calipers, I'd just bolt them loosely to the forks while the wheels are out.
You can clean the crap stuck to the pistons while their out in the open with brake cleaner, tooth brush, shoe string. (FI will post some pic's or do a search.)

Block one side so the pistons don't come out, then use the brake lever to pump out the other side pistons for better access.


Even better, I'd replace the brake seals while your that deep and waiting on the wheels to come back. You can clean everything
much easier once apart.

Yamaha calls for seal replacement every TWO YEARS, but in real life, 4-5 years before they harden up...

Hey sorry, I meant removing brake rotors. I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the bolts free, might just paint them with the rotors on.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hey sorry, I meant removing brake rotors. I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the bolts free, might just paint them with the rotors on.

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Take a heat gun to the rim, where the bolts screw in to hold the rotor on. That should help break the Yamaha loctite and you'll get the rotor off.

I think Yamaha uses the same stuff on the stator to LS cover screws, which took a whole bunch of heat to break loose.
As much heat as it needed, it didn't bother the paint but keep the heat right near where the loctite would be and work quickly..

 

[Pplater]

You pulled the calipers BEFORE you pulled the front wheel correct? (Makes it WAY EASIER for space and you won't tear up your rim).

Un-less you have a reason to actually remove the calipers, I'd just bolt them loosely to the forks while the wheels are out.
You can clean the crap stuck to the pistons while their out in the open with brake cleaner, tooth brush, shoe string. (FI will post some pic's or do a search.)

Block one side so the pistons don't come out, then use the brake lever to pump out the other side pistons for better access.


Even better, I'd replace the brake seals while your that deep and waiting on the wheels to come back. You can clean everything
much easier once apart.

Yamaha calls for seal replacement every TWO YEARS, but in real life, 4-5 years before they harden up...

I had 10 years on the stock brake caliper seals because no one told me they were supposed to be replaced at 2 years or 5 years. When they were replaced with about 170k kilometres, they were still doing fine. Blah