Removing front wheel...

[MarkG813]

looks simple enough, but does anybody have a link or care to chime in on the process to remove the front wheel. All i could find is this but doesn't help me much...

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/861-how-remove-your-front-wheel.html.

 

[greg]

you need a way to support the front of your bike (front + rear paddock stand, abba stand, lifter under the headers, or a rope around the triple clamp, etc)

undo the pinch bolt with an allen key (important!)

then you need something like this (a 19mm spindle key)
MOTRAX MOTORCYCLE FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE KEY SOCKET - NEW | eBay


and then you just need a suitable wrench

support the wheel and you should be able to pull the axle out


take the brake calipers off before refitting to save yourself a lot of hassle

 

[Erci]

There's nothing to it, besides having the right tool for the axle.

1. Loosen pinch bolt at the bottom of right fork leg.
2. Loosen axle.
3. With bike on centerstand, jack up the front (use a lift or anything else under header to prop up front or have someone sit on back of the bike).
4. Unthread the axle all the way and pull it out while supporting the wheel with one hand.
5. Remove wheel.

 

[MarkG813]

Thanks for the quick replies. Sounds easy enough. So the axle is actually threaded in?

 

[Motogiro]

Keep the front wheel on the ground until you have loosened everything including the axle.

You must remove the brake calipers!

Try to use a piece of wire to keep the calipers pulled out of the way. Keep the brake pads from falling out so they are in the same place when you reassemble.

Loosen the allen head pinch bolts on the bottom of each fork.

For the axle you can use a long nut for connecting threaded rod. It's cheap and easy and available at any hardware store. Threaded rod connector at Home Depot for sure. It's perfect for the job. Get the one for 1/2 inch threaded rod. The outside should be 19mm or 3/4 inch.

If you have your center stand you can weight down the rear and prop some wood under the headers to keep it up. I used two 5 gallon propane tanks and a rope to weight the back end of the bike. Now I use a front stand.

Remove axle and be careful not to ding up the threads. There will be spacers captured in outer seals when you remove the wheel. Make sure you keep them on the same side because some bikes may have a little different depth spacer and you want to keep your wheel centered as it was originally.

Be careful when you reassemble. I had a friend try to put a wheel back on and knock the bike over on him self.

Hope this helps.

 

[Davey]

An alternative to the special spindle tool or a threaded rod long nut, is simply to use a bolt with a 19mm head and screw two nuts onto it. Put it in the axle and use a socket wrench to undo.

I didn't think it was necessary to remove the calipers though...?

EDIT: I can see the benefit of removing the calipers for re-installation of the wheel now! I remember it was a little bit of a PITA trying to slot both discs back in the calipers as well as line up the axle etc!

 

[Erci]

One more thing worth mentioning. Do NOT squeeze front brake with the wheel out.

 

[fb40dash5]

You must remove the brake calipers!

Well, one of them, anyway. At least on my '04... not sure if the '07+ calipers change that.

I got a 19mm Gearwrench brand hex socket on amazon, it was $9 or so. I'm just a tool junkie though, I'm sure the 3/4" coupling nut works fine too.

 

[Def]

Great advice here!! Have fun with it.

 

[MarkG813]

Thanks again for the help, it was super easy to do! Had the wheel off in just a couple minutes. And went back on just as easy.

I found a 3/4 bolt in the garage, so i rigged up a ghetto way to make it work. I ended up grinding a flat spot on either side to prevent the vise grip from slipping around the bolt when trying to turn it.

 

[FinalImpact]

I found a 3/4 bolt in the garage, so i rigged up a ghetto way to make it work. I ended up grinding a flat spot on either side to prevent the vise grip from slipping around the bolt when trying to turn it.

Hmm - - judging by the tid bits of rust on the discs retaining bolts, I'd highly recommend that anything you take apart that doesn't need Loctite applied, to apply a thin layer of water proof grease to it so it doesn't corrode and lock itself together.

Example is both ends of the Axle shaft, the pinch bolts, and anything else you take apart. You might also consider doing a PM on the rear swing arm pivot if this bike sees salty roads or something like that SOONER than later.

 

[greg]

yeah rear axle is definitely worth removing and greasing, mine had to be chisled out when i got my tyres changed :S

 

[teeter]

Maybe it was mentioned already and I missed it, but the best free-ish tool I've seen for the front axle is a reversed 5/8 Spark Plug socket. You just have to stick an extension in from the "wrong" side and there you have it... a 19mm hex tool.

 

[FinalImpact]

Maybe it was mentioned already and I missed it, but the best free-ish tool I've seen for the front axle is a reversed 5/8 Spark Plug socket. You just have to stick an exension in from the "wrong" side and there have it... a 19mm hex head...

That IS Brilliant!!!! :thumbup:

Right under our noses too. lol

 

[teeter]

That IS Brilliant!!!! :thumbup:

Right under our noses too. lol

Well, I can't take credit for the idea as I saw it somewhere else a few years ago. It is pretty awesome though.:thumbup:

 

[MarkG813]

Maybe it was mentioned already and I missed it, but the best free-ish tool I've seen for the front axle is a reversed 5/8 Spark Plug socket. You just have to stick an exension in from the "wrong" side and there have it... a 19mm hex head...

I heard about using the spark plug socket right after i got done putting my wheel back on.... i'll most likely be using that for now on.

 

[MarkG813]

Hmm - - judging by the tid bits of rust on the discs retaining bolts, I'd highly recommend that anything you take apart that doesn't need Loctite applied, to apply a thin layer of water proof grease to it so it doesn't corrode and lock itself together.

Example is both ends of the Axle shaft, the pinch bolts, and anything else you take apart. You might also consider doing a PM on the rear swing arm pivot if this bike sees salty roads or something like that SOONER than later.

I greased up the axle and pinch bolt, but didn't pay attention to the retaining bolts... Do you recommend i just buy new bolts? I ride this bike everyday rain or shine, as its my only transportation right now.

 

[REDHAWK22]

I just tried to fit the Spark plug Socket, & it was perfect. But what do you put in the reverse of the socket to unscrew it?

Maybe it was mentioned already and I missed it, but the best free-ish tool I've seen for the front axle is a reversed 5/8 Spark Plug socket. You just have to stick an extension in from the "wrong" side and there you have it... a 19mm hex tool.

 

[04fizzer]

I just tried to fit the Spark plug Socket, & it was perfect. But what do you put in the reverse of the socket to unscrew it?

An extension. It's just a bar with a 3/8" square that you use when you can't reach a bolt.

 

[wrlomas]

way to improvise. Glad it worked. It is so nice to have all these friends to ask questions. Happy holidays to my FZ family. I left the 6 off just for you erci.