That's what came into my mind too. Possibly the incorrect tire size on the rear. I suggest to the OP to get the Michelin Pilot Road 3 or 4's if the rides involve a lot of highway.
Reluctance to lean? Bike wants to stay upright on turns?
That's what came into my mind too. Possibly the incorrect tire size on the rear. I suggest to the OP to get the Michelin Pilot Road 3 or 4's if the rides involve a lot of highway.
aclayonb
Junior Member
Those are...sort of worn.... Rode mine until the rear looked like it belonged in minecraft. 10k highway miles on the stock rear. It definitely changed how the bike leaned but it did feel more stable on straightaways (surprise). I was AMAZED at how much better the handling was on new tires.
The tire pressure looks okay to me, since I'm usually carrying almost 100 extra pounds of gear with me. I think that's pretty close to the two-up riding or hvy touring pressure anyway. With that being said, I'm 2000 miles into a set of PR3's and there's no noticeable wear.
The tire pressure looks okay to me, since I'm usually carrying almost 100 extra pounds of gear with me. I think that's pretty close to the two-up riding or hvy touring pressure anyway. With that being said, I'm 2000 miles into a set of PR3's and there's no noticeable wear.
2old2ride
Member
Any tire that fits from a good tire company will be an improvement. As to brand....... Some folks like Chocolate, some strawberry. Motorcycles are not cars. That seems simple enough but riders that should know better forget. If you want a car to handle better you lower it and put on wider tires. Do that to a motorcycle and you ruin the handling.
All things being equal, a thinner tire allows a motorcycle to transition quicker.
Transition is going from leaned over right to leaned over left. Or back straight up, depending. Since changing directions on a motorcycle is done by a combination of turning the forks and leaning the quicker you get into the lean, the quicker you turn. Yet traction decreases with lean angle. The contact patch of your tire (tyre in Great Britain) gets smaller as the lean angle increases. Your bike was designed with a certain size tyre (tire in the USA) in mind. The suspension components, Frame, controls, everything is supposed to work together as a unit.
Supposed to. The FZ-6 does better then most at that.
Buy good tires, or tyres if you must. Check the pressure EVERY DAY. While cold. Maintain that pressure at what the tire says. The sticker on the bike was for the tires that came with the bike.
Tires are regular replacement items. Start a tire fund. Throw a 10 in the back of your nightstand drawer every week. When you cannot see anything but slick rubber it's time for tires. Dig that stack of 10's out and see what is on sale. Do NOT ride in the rain on slick tyres!
All things being equal, a thinner tire allows a motorcycle to transition quicker.
Transition is going from leaned over right to leaned over left. Or back straight up, depending. Since changing directions on a motorcycle is done by a combination of turning the forks and leaning the quicker you get into the lean, the quicker you turn. Yet traction decreases with lean angle. The contact patch of your tire (tyre in Great Britain) gets smaller as the lean angle increases. Your bike was designed with a certain size tyre (tire in the USA) in mind. The suspension components, Frame, controls, everything is supposed to work together as a unit.
Supposed to. The FZ-6 does better then most at that.
Buy good tires, or tyres if you must. Check the pressure EVERY DAY. While cold. Maintain that pressure at what the tire says. The sticker on the bike was for the tires that came with the bike.
Tires are regular replacement items. Start a tire fund. Throw a 10 in the back of your nightstand drawer every week. When you cannot see anything but slick rubber it's time for tires. Dig that stack of 10's out and see what is on sale. Do NOT ride in the rain on slick tyres!
ghostdog
Junior Member
ghostdog
Junior Member
I ordered some Dunlop Q2 Sportmax for front ($96 shipped) and rear($115 shipped).
CoNwOw
Junior Member
I would recommend some Pilot road 2's, had them on my gsxr and they never squared off. Even after alot of motorway riding. They are really good for going quick aswell, alot of grip when you needs it. Just take a while to heat up so dont be opening the bike up just as its been started.
2old2ride
Member
That was a deal, or it sounds like one. I had real bad luck with Dunlops back in the 70's and avoid them today, Adele (my FZ6) came with Q2's. I had to admit they were tough tires. The kid I bought the bike from had burned them off. A strip of steel was all that was left of the center of the rear tire. They still held air, which impressed me. Faced with the evidence I had to change my opinion that Dunlops are made of wood. Running M20 Stones now and I'm quite impressed with the grip. They are slippery when cold but I don't do square corners out of the drive way anymore. My next set is sitting in the corner of my man cave. Pirelli Diabelo's. I got the set for 200 at Cycle Gear. I hope to have ridden through my stones by April so they will go on then, maybe.
ghostdog
Junior Member
Good news and bad news.
Good news I found out what was causing the turning problem. I bought new brake cables and installed them reversed. The longer cable in the set of 2 needed to go to the left side because that is the furthest away from the master cylinder.
Bad news the brake cable was rubbing on a metal piece in the front and hosed that cable. So I need to replace that.
Other good news I put the new tires on and holy sh^t. They hook instantly. Before I would nail the throttle and it would take a moment then the tires got hot (I guess) and then grab and go. These Dunlop Q2s just giddy up.
Good news I found out what was causing the turning problem. I bought new brake cables and installed them reversed. The longer cable in the set of 2 needed to go to the left side because that is the furthest away from the master cylinder.
Bad news the brake cable was rubbing on a metal piece in the front and hosed that cable. So I need to replace that.
Other good news I put the new tires on and holy sh^t. They hook instantly. Before I would nail the throttle and it would take a moment then the tires got hot (I guess) and then grab and go. These Dunlop Q2s just giddy up.
^^ Well said!! :thumbup:
Although I would set pressure according to Vehicle Load Placard / "Vehicle Recommended Pressure" vs tire's MAX pressure for load. Some tires will fit larger heavier vehicles and setting the MAX TIRE pressure results in over inflation and the potential for LOST Traction! Be careful!
2old2ride
Member
I assume you are talking about the sticker on the bike. The number on the bike and the number on the tire should be close. I'm using 2.5 rear and 2.25 front. I assume those are atmospheres. That is what the sticker on the bike says and I cannot read the number on the tire. Old eyes. In honesty I use them also because those numbers "feel" right to me.
That is a hold over from the Bias tire days. IIRC, pushing out was too much pressure and slow turn in was not enough pressure. I don't know enough about radials to develop any rules of thumb. Which is why I have a digital air gauge and a pancake compressor.
lrojasma
Junior Member
What tyre size are you using.
i saw this happening a lot on people using 190, over 180 section tyre on the back.
Our rim is designed to 180 section tyre without deforming the tyre shape.
i saw this happening a lot on people using 190, over 180 section tyre on the back.
Our rim is designed to 180 section tyre without deforming the tyre shape.
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