pedwards89
Super Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2007
- Messages
- 612
- Reaction score
- 7
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- Location
- Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, UK
Got the Fecker
Finally got the fecking collar out! :rockon:
I used an 8mm screw extractor (Ezee-out). Because the collar is hard, the extractor wouldn't bite without a bit of persuasion, so I cut a bolt to size, just a bit shorter that the distance fron the end of the extractor to the inside face of the swinging arm. Then fitted a nut to the bolt & used it to apply a force to the extractor.
Then I used a heat gun to apply heat to the underside of the boss, so if the paint did bubble it wouldn't be seen. Got it hot & applied some WD40. Turned the extractor with a spanner. It moved, barely, but it moved.
Wound a bit more pressure on with my bolt gadget, bit more heat, bit more WD40 & it started to turn. Once it was free (ish) the rest was easy. It still took a pair of mole grips & a fair bit of to-ing & fro-ing. But eventually it popped out.
The only area of corrosion was between the steel collar & the RH (looking from the rear) alloy boss. Very poor design. Dissimilar metals in contact generate an EMF (Electro-Motive Force) & (if my memory serves me well) results in galvanic corrosion. The solution is simple, grease the bugger!! Grease reduces metal to metal contact, no contact, no EMF. No EMF, No corrosion. Collar not stuck, giving me weeks of hassle.
Rider: Removing the collar by this method does destroy the oil seals & needle roller bearing in the bottom eye of the shock. The heat melts the carriers. Didn't matter to me as I was replacing the shock. I will get new seals & bearing in due course, so that I can replace the original shock as required.
Finally got the fecking collar out! :rockon:
I used an 8mm screw extractor (Ezee-out). Because the collar is hard, the extractor wouldn't bite without a bit of persuasion, so I cut a bolt to size, just a bit shorter that the distance fron the end of the extractor to the inside face of the swinging arm. Then fitted a nut to the bolt & used it to apply a force to the extractor.
Then I used a heat gun to apply heat to the underside of the boss, so if the paint did bubble it wouldn't be seen. Got it hot & applied some WD40. Turned the extractor with a spanner. It moved, barely, but it moved.
Wound a bit more pressure on with my bolt gadget, bit more heat, bit more WD40 & it started to turn. Once it was free (ish) the rest was easy. It still took a pair of mole grips & a fair bit of to-ing & fro-ing. But eventually it popped out.
The only area of corrosion was between the steel collar & the RH (looking from the rear) alloy boss. Very poor design. Dissimilar metals in contact generate an EMF (Electro-Motive Force) & (if my memory serves me well) results in galvanic corrosion. The solution is simple, grease the bugger!! Grease reduces metal to metal contact, no contact, no EMF. No EMF, No corrosion. Collar not stuck, giving me weeks of hassle.
Rider: Removing the collar by this method does destroy the oil seals & needle roller bearing in the bottom eye of the shock. The heat melts the carriers. Didn't matter to me as I was replacing the shock. I will get new seals & bearing in due course, so that I can replace the original shock as required.
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