Rear Shock Removal Problem - HELP

[pedwards89]

Got the Fecker

Finally got the fecking collar out! :rockon:

I used an 8mm screw extractor (Ezee-out). Because the collar is hard, the extractor wouldn't bite without a bit of persuasion, so I cut a bolt to size, just a bit shorter that the distance fron the end of the extractor to the inside face of the swinging arm. Then fitted a nut to the bolt & used it to apply a force to the extractor.

Then I used a heat gun to apply heat to the underside of the boss, so if the paint did bubble it wouldn't be seen. Got it hot & applied some WD40. Turned the extractor with a spanner. It moved, barely, but it moved.

Wound a bit more pressure on with my bolt gadget, bit more heat, bit more WD40 & it started to turn. Once it was free (ish) the rest was easy. It still took a pair of mole grips & a fair bit of to-ing & fro-ing. But eventually it popped out.

The only area of corrosion was between the steel collar & the RH (looking from the rear) alloy boss. Very poor design. Dissimilar metals in contact generate an EMF (Electro-Motive Force) & (if my memory serves me well) results in galvanic corrosion. The solution is simple, grease the bugger!! Grease reduces metal to metal contact, no contact, no EMF. No EMF, No corrosion. Collar not stuck, giving me weeks of hassle.

Rider: Removing the collar by this method does destroy the oil seals & needle roller bearing in the bottom eye of the shock. The heat melts the carriers. Didn't matter to me as I was replacing the shock. I will get new seals & bearing in due course, so that I can replace the original shock as required.

 

[Numpty]

Re: Got the Fecker

Nice one Phil im glad you got the little bugger out at last,now you can replace and get out and ride :thumbup:

Gary

 

[Hellgate]

Wow! What a PITA! I'm glad you were able to get it out, finally. The parts for the eyelet of the shock aren't too expensive. The on-line parts guys have the best prices. Definately use some good quality grease on that puppy, maybe like a wheel bearing grease.

 

[pedwards89]

Wow! What a PITA! I'm glad you were able to get it out, finally. The parts for the eyelet of the shock aren't too expensive. The on-line parts guys have the best prices. Definately use some good quality grease on that puppy, maybe like a wheel bearing grease.

I've ordered the replacement parts from a local dealer for about $25.

I tend to use copper grease in non-specific applications. Don't know why, probably just cos' I like the colour.

 

[pint of heavy]

I managed to get the collar out to with aid from a hot air gun with a 600 degree celsius setting (though I needed to put a rag round the rear brake hose and monoshock spring as were getting quite hot), I sprayed some of that freezey spray inside the collar being careful not to expose the aluminium boss to the sudden change of temperature. It took 3 attempts to get the collar fully out and bearings and seals were damaged.

Thanks for this thread guys - been real useful

 

[Fred]

II tend to use copper grease in non-specific applications. Don't know why, probably just cos' I like the colour.

Good choice. It's the best antiseize out there.

The silver zinc based stuff is good too, but you can't get it as hot.

 

[jeepcoma]

Re: Got the Fecker

I found mine to be stuck as well and went searching for others with the same problem. I came up with a different solution to the ones posted here so thought it might help someone else down the road.

I didn't want to damage the bearings on the stock shock by applying too much heat, and after a few quick blasts with the torch realized it would need some serious heat in order to budge, so I gave that up. The collar was too hard and room too limited for me to get a really good grip on it with vice grips too, so they would just slip right off when applying any sort of twisting force. After many many tries with every type of vice grip I could find, I gave that up as well. Also, I had been spraying liberally with PB blaster for days and days, to no avail.

What I ended up doing was removing the rear tire to get some more access. Then I took my dremel with a small grinding stone and flattened out the top and bottom so that I could put a wrench over it. Now that two surfaces were nice and flat for the vice grips to grab on without spinning, it was actually pretty simple to turn it. From then on it stil took a lot of wiggling and turning and spraying with PB blaster to get it all the way out, but it was way better than what I was doing before!

I spent a lot of time just futzing with it, hoping the PB blaster would penetrate and then like magic it would just pop out with a tug from the vice grips. It won't. If I had just taken this approach from the start it would have just been a regular 1 hour job instead of the days and days I wasted trying to coax it out. If yours is stuck in there good like the rest of us are describing, don't beat around the bush with it and just go to town instead and do it the right way. It'll save you a lot of time and frustration.

 

[04fizzer]

You could also try using some mechanical advantage and make a puller:

Use a nut and washer(s) on the left hand side (looking from the rear), find a piece of pipe that's larger than the bushing, and a length of threaded rod or long bolt that will fit through the bushing.

Place the threaded rod/bolt through the pipe, and the pipe over the bushing/where the bushing will be, and tighten the threaded rod/bolt. This will pull the bushing out as you tighten, keeping track that you can get everything out once the bushing's removed (without seeing, or trying this, I can't know for certain).

Also, make sure to liberally grease the nut/bolt so as to not gal the threads and make an even bigger problem for yourself.

 

[crofz]

hello, strugling with the same thing for days and i'm having some doubts...can someone tell me that on one side collar is going trough, but on the other is only supporting sideways...mening one hole on the eyebolt is 17mm (collar going trough) and the other is 9 or 10mm ( the bolt is going trough only)...sorry if bad explained

 

[z2345]

Re: Got the Fecker

I found mine to be stuck as well and went searching for others with the same problem. I came up with a different solution to the ones posted here so thought it might help someone else down the road.

I didn't want to damage the bearings on the stock shock by applying too much heat, and after a few quick blasts with the torch realized it would need some serious heat in order to budge, so I gave that up. The collar was too hard and room too limited for me to get a really good grip on it with vice grips too, so they would just slip right off when applying any sort of twisting force. After many many tries with every type of vice grip I could find, I gave that up as well. Also, I had been spraying liberally with PB blaster for days and days, to no avail.

What I ended up doing was removing the rear tire to get some more access. Then I took my dremel with a small grinding stone and flattened out the top and bottom so that I could put a wrench over it. Now that two surfaces were nice and flat for the vice grips to grab on without spinning, it was actually pretty simple to turn it. From then on it stil took a lot of wiggling and turning and spraying with PB blaster to get it all the way out, but it was way better than what I was doing before!

I spent a lot of time just futzing with it, hoping the PB blaster would penetrate and then like magic it would just pop out with a tug from the vice grips. It won't. If I had just taken this approach from the start it would have just been a regular 1 hour job instead of the days and days I wasted trying to coax it out. If yours is stuck in there good like the rest of us are describing, don't beat around the bush with it and just go to town instead and do it the right way. It'll save you a lot of time and frustration.

Digging up an old thread, but I second this approach. My 09 was stuck. Grind/file two flat spots enough to get a crescent wrench on, and with WD40 or similar twist to break the sticking. Work it with vise grips clamped onto the flat spots to slowly pull it out towards the right side of the swing arm (looking at the back of the bike).

I also warmed it up a bit with a hair dryer while using the vise grips

 

[snagsboson]

Top advice guys. I was struggling with this. Found this thread and was successful by soaking with Duck Oil then applying heat with a hot air gun (535 degrees C). I then managed to work it loose with a pair of Molegrips.

 

[lawlberg]

I'll let you guys know how it works for me - I've been wrestling with it for a few days now to no avail, time for the file/vicegrips/heat/pb blaster method and we'll see what happens.

 

[FinalImpact]

Heat goes a long ways.... A pencil tip or even a little hand held propane torch so the heat blows through the cente will helpr. If running the OEM shock you can't hurt the shock any. The bearing, seals, and shaft are $25 for all of them.

If you have a welder, throw an old bolt in the hole and firmly tack it. You get both spot heat and something to twist with. Should do the trick.

Here is a post from: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/48153-shock-needle-bearing-membrane.html

Without it, the inner race will be destroyed... .... You really need new bearing in there.

3 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2 $4.24
4 93315-31758-00 BEARING 1 $12.06
8 90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1 $6.89

Although the shaft I thought would be ex*****ve is cheap #8

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2008>FZ6>REAR SUSPENSION

 

[lawlberg]

Heat goes a long ways.... A pencil tip or even a little hand held propane torch so the heat blows through the cente will helpr. If running the OEM shock you can't hurt the shock any. The bearing, seals, and shaft are $25 for all of them.

If you have a welder, throw an old bolt in the hole and firmly tack it. You get both spot heat and something to twist with. Should do the trick.

Here is a post from: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/48153-shock-needle-bearing-membrane.html

Welding on a bolt is a good option! I actually am replacing the shock with a different OEM one that I picked up off of EBay (originally so I could shorten it a tad, but I didn't do that, and instead just did it so I could paint from the comfort of my basement) - so damaging it isn't a concern of mine. Thanks for that idea though!

 

[Bkfz6]

Having same problem, that collar through the mounts is seized solid. Could anyone tell me does the collar have a constant external diameter or is it stepped to seat it in left hand mount. I can only see low res images of it online so it's not clear in those. Just trying to see exactly what I'm up against. Tried the obvious stuff, penetrating fluid, heat, grinding notches to fit wrench but the damn thing won't budge. Any info appreciated.

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