Rear Axle Nut Removal

[CoolATIGuy]

Ah, you need to adjust the chain BEFORE TIGHTENING THE AXLE....

Right - now that the axle nuts loosened up I can adjust, then retighten.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's Left/Right switch-style ratchet torque wrench (250 ft/lb max $100), so I assume it can be used both directions...?

The chain only had ~1" of play on the centerstand after shop replaced rear tire, quite noisy at speed (on local roads can be louder then exhaust almost). Hopefully this helps, although before the tire was replaced I spent days trying to adjust tension and align tires and it was still way noisier than it was a few months ago.

As posted above its a rental so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

The left/right switch atop the wrench is just so you can change directions if in an ackward area. There's no reason to use a torque wrence to loosen something, its coming off and I'm sure it doesn't help with the accuracy of the unit...

Make sure, when you check/adjust the chain you adjust at the taughtest part of the chain and keep it at least 1.75 " +.... (per the manual, on the centerstand)..

Its sad you bring your bike to some "Professionals" and they put an air gun on it (likely why it was so tight) and the tension is too tight.

The FZ does have a looser chain adjustment than most chained bikes but I've seen them even tighter when customer brought his bike to the shop I frequent for parts, done by a "Pro", the chain was as tight as a guitar string!!

Save up and invest in some tools so at least you can do the basic stuff, the FZ doesn't take a lot to keep going and is pretty durable and easy to maintain... It'll pay for itself very quickly...

 

[Black_Cirrus]

How ever rare there are times you may need to apply torque in the opposite direction. The only one on my mind right now is Old Mopars that had the lugnuts directional to the sides. and there are engine pulleys that are left hand thread.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How ever rare there are times you may need to apply torque in the opposite direction. The only one on my mind right now is Old Mopars that had the lugnuts directional to the sides. and there are engine pulleys that are left hand thread.

You are correct, there are reverse threads that in some instances need to be torqued to a specific #. I'm not familiar with any American muscle cars with reverse thread lugnuts, can you specify?

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I'm sorry, maybe I'm missing something. What's the bad news about using a torque wrench to loosen if its a bi-directional wrench? The wrench doesn't know if it is tightening or loosening, just the force involved. Is it just because you are "using up" some of the torque cycles on a job that doesn't require the accuracy and a "dumber" less expensive tool should be used? If that's the case, I don't see it "harming" the tool, just using up a tad more of it's lifespan than absolutely *necessary*.

Again, I could be missing something - some of ya'll have quite a bit more experience than I do.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

It's a 250lb torque wrench too, so I set it way higher when using to loosen - shouldn't have overstrained it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I forgot about reverse threads and as Black circus pointed out there are reverse threaded parts that do need specific tightening spec's, its rare but their there.

If you set the wrench for 250 lbs, and you didn't exceed the click(250ft lbs) (I'm assuming it was a clicker style wrench) and got the axle loose, I'm sure its fine...

Had you put a 50 lb torque wrench on the axle, clicked it WAY PAST 50 ft lbs to say 200 ft lbs, I wouldn't trust it after that. Its a torque wrench, not a breaker bar.

I'm just used to having the correct tool for the job (most of the time, unless its something really, really special) and would have put either a half inch air gun 6 point socket on the axle nut, or a 1/2" drive breaker bar and extension pipe if necessary...

I have 4 torque wrenches, the older/first being a "Beam" style 1/2" drive wrench, not nearly as accurate as a clicker, a 3/8" drive, inch Lb wrench, 3/8 drive, ft lb wrench and a 1/2" drive, larger ft lb wrench. IMHO, Especially the lighter duty stuff, valves, heads, etc, (aluminum threads) its more important to have a very accurate wrench.


BTW CoolAT1Guy, is AT1 for the early (1969 and up) Yamaha enduro bikes?

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I'm glad for you having a stocked shop workspace. lol I'm working on my collection slowly...in the meantime, a $330 deposit sounds way more appealing to me than a $330 purchase.

The auto stores usually have a lighter duty and heavy duty torque wrench in the loaner toolbox. I sprung for the 1/2" drive 250ft/lb clicker-style L/R switchable bad boy. Pep Boys was out, so I got the only 1 O'Reilly had and the other from AutoZone.

And no, it's ati, good try though!

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Thanks for all the help! If I get bound up again, I'll shout!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I wasn't bragging, just been collecting tools for literally decades(since I was 15, 53 now). I don't like getting stuck in the middle of a job and missing a special puller/wrench,etc. I've cut up wrenches, rewelded them to make then fit inside a rotor, as a holder, while I removed the crankshaft/rotor nut from my old KLR, etc..

Anyway, a decent torque wrench is under $100 new at Sears, HD, Lowes, etc...

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I wasn't bragging, just been collecting tools for literally decades(since I was 15, 53 now). I don't like getting stuck in the middle of a job and missing a special puller/wrench,etc. I've cut up wrenches, rewelded them to make then fit inside a rotor, as a holder, while I removed the crankshaft/rotor nut from my old KLR, etc..

Anyway, a decent torque wrench is under $100 new at Sears, HD, Lowes, etc...

Not the kind they expect you to use and return. lol

I know you weren't bragging - I'm just not to that point yet. But working on it!

 

[FinalImpact]

As for Torque Wrench and "intended use" it varies by manufacture. Not all torque wrenches are approved for CCW use but many modern wrenches are. I picked 3 name brand wrenches (all more than $200USD) and they all specified about the same specs with this caveat: CW was spec'd tighter than CCW. Typically +/- 3 to 4% CW and +/- 4 to 8% CCW of full scale reading.

CW = Clock Wise | CCW = Counter Clock Wise

Most of the cheaper $50 dollar or less units didn't specify accuracy let alone limited use. I know my Snap-On clicker is not spec'd for CCW use and it may damage it. The new one of the same type/design is spec'd for CCW use.

Some details from the Expensive places. . .

Calibrated and certified to 3pct of torque reading clockwise.
Calibrated and certified to 6pct of torque reading counter clockwise.
*
Each torque instrument, as calibrated at the factory, is certified to meet the accuracy specified in ANSI B107.14M-1994 and was calibrated on a torque standard traceable to the National Institute of Standards Technology (NIST). Accuracy. All QD Series Torque Instruments are accurate to ±4% clockwise and ±6% counterclockwise from 20% of full scale to full scale.
*
Reversible ratchet head
Calibrated: +/-3% clockwise and +/-6% counter clockwise
Positive locking mechanism–dial and lock in the desired torque

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Here's one of the two I rented (different auto stores but almost the same torque wrench):

OEM/1/2 in. drive 30-250 ft./lbs. torque wrench (25687) | Torque Wrench | AutoZone.com

"Features & Benefits

Precision torque control by 45 tooth ratchet head. Audible click when desired, torque is reached both clockwise and counter-clockwise operation. High grade spring steele torque mechanism"

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Actually it's this one I rented by you can see in the other one that one says works both directions. fwiw

Great Neck/1/2 in. drive adjustable click type torque wrench (27043) | Torque Wrench | AutoZone.com

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I know I've encountered CCW bolts/nuts, especially on crankshafts of small engines, some MC engines, but seriously don't EVER remember using a torque wrench on a CCW thread, their that rare.

As for a pully assembly with CCW threads, I seriously doubt I'd use a torque wrench on that unless it was something special.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Wow what a difference, way quieter and smoother

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, not like a tight guitar wire! Much easier on the driven parts too!

 

[Black_Cirrus]

I know I've encountered CCW bolts/nuts, especially on crankshafts of small engines, some MC engines, but seriously don't EVER remember using a torque wrench on a CCW thread, their that rare.

As for a pully assembly with CCW threads, I seriously doubt I'd use a torque wrench on that unless it was something special.

Yep a few years in full time Mechanic work and I don't pull out the torque wrench unless the valve cover is off. I've never used one CCW, and on the lugnuts I don't have specific car but I've heard several times that Chrysler products in the 60's and 70's did, like Chargers and Road Runners

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep a few years in full time Mechanic work and I don't pull out the torque wrench unless the valve cover is off. I've never used one CCW, and on the lugnuts I don't have specific car but I've heard several times that Chrysler products in the 60's and 70's did, like Chargers and Road Runners

I grew up on muscle cars and worked on some Dodges, Chryslers as well as Fords and mostly GM cars. I've never heard of a reverse thread lug nut, there's no reason to have one there... Done many a brake job, engine/trans swap, and can't remember any there either but of course they do exist in certain curcumstances..

Now on a crankshaft nut on a MC engine, small (weedeater, etc) engine type engine, its a bit more common so they don't loosen up when the engine is turning in the same direction as to loosen the nut (if regular threads)..