Radiator fan

[Cocoloco]

Good day!
Im looking for wiring schematics particularly for radiator fan, the previous owner of my bike installed a switch for the fan motor , now im trying to put it back to factory wiring
Or maybe some pointers from you guys
Thank you!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Maybe someone will gift you a copy of the FSM....

 

[Ohendo]

PM me your email address, I'll send you an FSM copy for the S1 FZ6.

 

[Motogiro]

The stock fan set up operates off a relay that is controlled by the ECU. The relay is located in the left or right pod below the seat. There are 4 wires in a "T" shaped plug. The color of the wires are Brown with a black tracer, blue, red with a white tracer and green with a yellow tracer. Brown with a black tracer should show 12 vdc. pos. when the key is on. If there is no voltage the fuse may be blown. There should be 12 vdc. pos. when the key is on and the kill switch is in the on position at the red with white tracer wire. The green with yellow tracer wire goes to the ECU and closes the circuit for the relay coil which then should provide voltage to the fan through the blue wire. You could test this by turning on the key, putting the kill switch to run and grounding the green with yellow tracer wire. You should see/hear the relay activate and there should be 12 vdc on the blue wire. I would not ground the green with yellow tracer wire while still attached to the ECU as that wire may be be in a high state in the ECU and damage the ECU switch circuitry. I would remove the pin from the plug and ground that pin on the relay.

 

[Cocoloco]

Update
Im only seeing 4volts on the relay trigger could it be a thermoswitch is faulty?

 

[Motogiro]

Update
Im only seeing 4volts on the relay trigger could it be a thermoswitch is faulty?

There is no thermoswitch. Read post #4. What wire are you specifying as the trigger? Is your measurement while attached to the ECU? What temperature is the bike before you're expecting the fan to activate? The FZ6 runs pretty cool with a great cooling capacity.

 

[Cocoloco]

There is no thermoswitch. Read post #4. What wire are you specifying as the trigger? Is your measurement while attached to the ECU? What temperature is the bike before you're expecting the fan to activate? The FZ6 runs pretty cool with a great cooling capacity.

Ive remove the relay and put my multitester leads to green/yellow and red/white, as the temps climbs, the voltage also climbs at 5bars in the temp gauge im only seeing 4volts, which should be 12v to trigger the relay. turned off the engine, ive read many times that the fan should kick at 4bars
Seems to be the ECU does not give enough Ground,
Checked for continuity green/yellow ecu socket to relay socket it has continuity.
I cut the green/yellow wire and tapped it to body ground, the fan works,
The bike really shows its age and abuse from the previous owner.
Also the bike stutters at idle rpm bounce up and down

 

[Motogiro]

Since you also have a problem where the ECU controls the headlamp relay through a ground path and the fan relay workes the same way, there may be a damaged ground path through the ECU. You may have a damage ECU. If you can solve the throttle problem you could somehow rig up a snap switch for the cooling fan and rig a relay to interrupt the headlamp during starting. The reason the headlamp stays off till the engine is started is to give more current to the starter during the crank cycle but you can wire an interrupt.
I would at this point concentrate on getting the engine running properly because it may be a bad ECU.

You might start with the basics like a compression/leakdown test to rule out the possibility of poor compression.

 

[Cocoloco]

Since you also have a problem where the ECU controls the headlamp relay through a ground path and the fan relay workes the same way, there may be a damaged ground path through the ECU. You may have a damage ECU. If you can solve the throttle problem you could somehow rig up a snap switch for the cooling fan and rig a relay to interrupt the headlamp during starting. The reason the headlamp stays off till the engine is started is to give more current to the starter during the crank cycle but you can wire an interrupt.
I would at this point concentrate on getting the engine running properly because it may be a bad ECU.

You might start with the basics like a compression/leakdown test to rule out the possibility of poor compression.

I'll recheck the compression, before i start the engine first time, i tested it i poured oil in the chamber,
Cylinder
#1 150 psi
#2 130 psi
#3 130 psi
#4 120 psi
Havent checked it ever since it ran
I'll re do compression test when ive got free time.
Thank you

 

[Gary in NJ]

Those are not encouraging compression values. The minimum acceptable compression is 192psi. Standard value is 220psi.

Now that the engine has run, be sure to recheck the compression with the engine warm, throttle wide open, with no oil added to the cylinders. If you are still below 192psi, you will do conduct a leak-down test (aka differential compression test) to determine the cause of the loss of compression.

 

[Cocoloco]

Those are not encouraging compression values. The minimum acceptable compression is 192psi. Standard value is 220psi.

Now that the engine has run, be sure to recheck the compression with the engine warm, throttle wide open, with no oil added to the cylinders. If you are still below 192psi, you will do conduct a leak-down test (aka differential compression test) to determine the cause of the loss of compression.

Will definitely do, i have been thinking leaky valves since its left aside for years, and running the engine might clear it,

 

[Gary in NJ]

Sometimes running an engine can help with a sticking valve or stuck rings. It ususlly just takes one heat cycle to see an improvement - if it will happen at all. But low compression on all four cylinders is an indication of a faulty gauge/test apparatus, a fault in the test proceedure, or the results are correct.

 

[Cocoloco]

Good day!
By any chance any of you know the wattahe of our fan?
My radiator fan is dead
Im planning on fitting 2 30watts 4inches radiator fan

 

[Motogiro]

Wattage you're planning seems within range but what is the CFM equivalent (Cubic Feet per Minute)? I don't know the OEM fan wattage or CFM. Other factors are heat etc. Are those twins designed for the ambient temperature environment?

 

[Cocoloco]

Heres the setup
I got those fans for free
1 Spal 5.2inch 313CFM
1 panasonic 4inch 130CFM from MX bike
That is my old radiator, im using to test fit

 

[Cocoloco]

The spal feels more air is moving compared to my OEM fan. (Which is on its way out)
I got the idea from KTM duke riders here in PH even though the bike is fairly new overheating is one of there problem when creeping in traffic.
Twin panasonic fans are the most common mod they do. But single SPAL radiator fan seems to be enough for others.
I cant seem to find more info about our OEM radiator fan aside from it being manufactured by denso

 

[Motogiro]

Looks promising.

 

[Motogiro]

Why you up so late? Go to bed! Geezzzz! Motorcycle enthusiasts! Lol!

 

[Cocoloco]

Why you up so late? Go to bed! Geezzzz! Motorcycle enthusiasts! Lol!

You know how it feel you cant sleep when youre thinking specially bike mods hahaha
I guess theres only one way to find out,
Test ride!

 

[Gary in NJ]

It looks like it should work, but there's only one way to find out.

Let us know.