I noticed that my fan was not spinning when riding and the engine was hot so I started shutting the engine off a stop lights to avoid overheating until I got home.
After reading through the download manual from this sight and diagnosing the problem, which turned out to be the Thermosenor, I realized that I wasted a lot of time diagnosing the problem by following the manual flow chart which first instructs you to test the fan motor by putting battery across the fan plug, which is under the gas tank and requires dismantling the inner fairing, pulling the tank, airbox and battery box. Well come to find out I could have tested the fan at the radiator fan relay that is under the left side cover. Actually you can perform every test recommended in the manual at this location, which means you can do the entire diagnosis in about 30 minutes with the left side cover off.
So in an effort to save my fellow Fizzers the wasted time and effort I went through I am providing this sequential list that should allow you to diagnose your radiator fan not spinning and repair the system with the minimum amount of time and minimize your chance of F~&king something else up by unnecessary disassembly. You will need a Volt-Ohm Meter and a piece of wire to jumper the recepticle contacts for the fan motor at the relay location.
1) Spin the fan by hand to make sure debris has not jammed the fan.
2) Remove Seat and Left Side Cover.
3) Locate the Radiator Fan Relay. On my 2006, there are two black square relays. The fan relay is the one to the left. To make sure, it is the one with the Red-White stripe, Green-Yellow Stripe, Brown-Black Stripe, and Blue wires in the recepticle.
4) Remove the relay from the recepticle.
5) The Recepticle is T shaped.The top part of the T has the Red & Green wires and the stem of the T has the Brown & Blue wires.
6) To test the Fan Motor take the Volt-Ohm Meter on the DC volts setting => 12 volts and test for battery across the Blue (+) and the Brown (-) wires. If 12 volts of battery go to step 7).If no battery check and replace the fuse, which is under the right side cover. Then repeat step 6).
7) Take the piece of wire and short the Blue and Brown wire clips in the relay recepticle, then go to the radiator and see if the fan is spinning, or you should hear the fan spinning. If the Fan spins then it's OK, remove the jumper wire and go to step 8). If the fan does not spin, then the motor is bad and must be replaced or a wire may be broken. Visually inspect wires at radiator and retest with battery at plug connection under tank. Follow manual procedures to replace the fan. (Too voluminous to write here.)
8) Next test the Relay for function by putting battery across the terminals that would plug into Red-white (+) wire and the Green-yellow (-) wires in the recepticle. This energizes the Relay. Then take the Volt-ohm meter in the lowest ohm setting and test for continuity. You do this by taking the test leads and touch the red lead to the terminal that would plug into the blue wire and the black test lead on the terminal that would plug into the brown wire in the recepticle. You should read 0 (zero) ohms. If you read infinity ohms with the relay energized across the red and green terminals, the relay is bad. You should only read infinity across these leads when there is no battery enegizing the relay across the red/green wires. If the Relay tests OK go to 9). If no continuity, replace relay.
9) The Thermosenor is connected directly to the ECU. So if the temperature indicator on you instrument cluster is working and reads a normal indication when riding your Thermosensor is OK.
I was able to replace my Thermosensor through the space on the left side of the bike where the sensor is visable on the backside of the cylinder block,
it has a green plug cap on it.
(The bending pipe below the green thermosensor cap is the clutch cable housing that you need to move by disconnecting to ease access to the sensor.)
You just need to drain the radiator fluid, disconnect the clutch cable on the right side of the engine to move it out of the way of the sensor, remove the plug cap through the left side, and then with a ratcheting box wrench or deepwell socket and ratchet, remove the sensor through the left side. (If your hands are not too big, otherwise get someone with smaller hands, :BLAA: ) Then reverse these procedures to replace. Torque to 12 ft/lbs. Should take less than a hour to replace, maybe two. But will save you at least a $100 to $200 bucks in labor.
Hope this helps someone, and if a moderator thinks it is worthy, put in the Sticky's.
Lew.
After reading through the download manual from this sight and diagnosing the problem, which turned out to be the Thermosenor, I realized that I wasted a lot of time diagnosing the problem by following the manual flow chart which first instructs you to test the fan motor by putting battery across the fan plug, which is under the gas tank and requires dismantling the inner fairing, pulling the tank, airbox and battery box. Well come to find out I could have tested the fan at the radiator fan relay that is under the left side cover. Actually you can perform every test recommended in the manual at this location, which means you can do the entire diagnosis in about 30 minutes with the left side cover off.
So in an effort to save my fellow Fizzers the wasted time and effort I went through I am providing this sequential list that should allow you to diagnose your radiator fan not spinning and repair the system with the minimum amount of time and minimize your chance of F~&king something else up by unnecessary disassembly. You will need a Volt-Ohm Meter and a piece of wire to jumper the recepticle contacts for the fan motor at the relay location.
1) Spin the fan by hand to make sure debris has not jammed the fan.
2) Remove Seat and Left Side Cover.
3) Locate the Radiator Fan Relay. On my 2006, there are two black square relays. The fan relay is the one to the left. To make sure, it is the one with the Red-White stripe, Green-Yellow Stripe, Brown-Black Stripe, and Blue wires in the recepticle.
4) Remove the relay from the recepticle.
5) The Recepticle is T shaped.The top part of the T has the Red & Green wires and the stem of the T has the Brown & Blue wires.
6) To test the Fan Motor take the Volt-Ohm Meter on the DC volts setting => 12 volts and test for battery across the Blue (+) and the Brown (-) wires. If 12 volts of battery go to step 7).If no battery check and replace the fuse, which is under the right side cover. Then repeat step 6).
7) Take the piece of wire and short the Blue and Brown wire clips in the relay recepticle, then go to the radiator and see if the fan is spinning, or you should hear the fan spinning. If the Fan spins then it's OK, remove the jumper wire and go to step 8). If the fan does not spin, then the motor is bad and must be replaced or a wire may be broken. Visually inspect wires at radiator and retest with battery at plug connection under tank. Follow manual procedures to replace the fan. (Too voluminous to write here.)
8) Next test the Relay for function by putting battery across the terminals that would plug into Red-white (+) wire and the Green-yellow (-) wires in the recepticle. This energizes the Relay. Then take the Volt-ohm meter in the lowest ohm setting and test for continuity. You do this by taking the test leads and touch the red lead to the terminal that would plug into the blue wire and the black test lead on the terminal that would plug into the brown wire in the recepticle. You should read 0 (zero) ohms. If you read infinity ohms with the relay energized across the red and green terminals, the relay is bad. You should only read infinity across these leads when there is no battery enegizing the relay across the red/green wires. If the Relay tests OK go to 9). If no continuity, replace relay.
9) The Thermosenor is connected directly to the ECU. So if the temperature indicator on you instrument cluster is working and reads a normal indication when riding your Thermosensor is OK.
I was able to replace my Thermosensor through the space on the left side of the bike where the sensor is visable on the backside of the cylinder block,
it has a green plug cap on it.
(The bending pipe below the green thermosensor cap is the clutch cable housing that you need to move by disconnecting to ease access to the sensor.)
You just need to drain the radiator fluid, disconnect the clutch cable on the right side of the engine to move it out of the way of the sensor, remove the plug cap through the left side, and then with a ratcheting box wrench or deepwell socket and ratchet, remove the sensor through the left side. (If your hands are not too big, otherwise get someone with smaller hands, :BLAA: ) Then reverse these procedures to replace. Torque to 12 ft/lbs. Should take less than a hour to replace, maybe two. But will save you at least a $100 to $200 bucks in labor.
Hope this helps someone, and if a moderator thinks it is worthy, put in the Sticky's.
Lew.
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