Question on throttle body sync

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't know if that's from factory Scott, I am the third owner of my bike. It's possible that it has been messed about with before? I haven't had any running issues other than once you synch the throttle bodies you do notice when they need to be done again.
I think that with the home made manometers a heavier oil is also key because the vacuum created is pretty strong, a heavier oil doesn't bounce around as much. It's also wise to get the vacuum valves to protect the engine from sucking in the contents of the line (which nearly happened to me on mk 1).
incidentally because of weathering I am not able to identify the pink line on #1 & #4. can I identify which line goes to each cylinder based on their length.
I answered my own question Re: Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!
I did mine today, Thanks very much for the "How to".
It was much better than the Haynes manual.
Just a couple of things to add.
1. I am using 10w 40 oil. I tried a lighter oil but found that the heavier oil was much more stable in the tubes.
2. Don't disconnect the manometer with the engine running. I nearly ended up with throttle bodies full of oil.
3. My vacuum tubes did not have the purple markings on ( probably worn of with age). #1 and #4 tubes are longer than # 2 & # 3 on my bike.

Nelly

Great pointers!

If you wanted, just a spot of white paint (or "white out"-if they still make it) on the outside hoses would keep you from having to look for the longer INSIDE hoses (#'s 2 & 3).

Even a plastic zip tie, on the very loose side, would help/work...

 

[redoliander]

So it's been over a month since my bike has been ridden and the last thing I did was a TB sync. I took it for a quick spin and when I came home I heard a tapping noise, my wife says it sounds like a woodpecker in the engine. I'm going to check the valves but why would my motor sound like this after just a TB sync? Old gas? Fouled plugs?


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

So it's been over a month since my bike has been ridden and the last thing I did was a TB sync. I took it for a quick spin and when I came home I heard a tapping noise, my wife says it sounds like a woodpecker in the engine. I'm going to check the valves but why would my motor sound like this after just a TB sync? Old gas? Fouled plugs?


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If it ran good after your sync, running it a month or two (or ever) later won't make a difference...

Is the oil light enough with the colder weather coming on?

If you can take an audio/video of the noise and some more detail would help (which side, what RPM's, mileage, etc).

You can also use a screwdriver to place up against the engine, the handle up against your ear to help pinpoint the location...

Was/ is it due for an oil change?

Depending on your fuel, it does, (especially with the ethonol) go bad fairly quick. I don't think it would affect the injectors (which can be noisy). A Strong dose of "Seafoam" in the tank would help free up and clean the fuel system (which won't hurt in any case)..

 

[redoliander]

I started it up today and thought I heard it for a bit and then I didn't hear it again. I didn't ride it around though.

The bike has probably around 40000 miles on it. I had crashed and rode it for about 4 years without a gauge cluster. I live in Gilbert AZ, it's not very cold yet, and have used Rotella T6 for the past 6 years. The oil has only been in there for about 1500 miles.

I bought some iridium plugs to replace the one in there, also iridium. And my next couple of days I'm going to pull her apart and check the valve clearances.

Just getting tired of working on bikes, I just want to RIDE! Lol. I've got a project FZR600 and FZR1000 I'm working on. The 600 is almost done and ready to sell. Just need to get the fuel/air mixture lined out.

Thanks for all your help.


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I started it up today and thought I heard it for a bit and then I didn't hear it again. I didn't ride it around though.

The bike has probably around 40000 miles on it. I had crashed and rode it for about 4 years without a gauge cluster. I live in Gilbert AZ, it's not very cold yet, and have used Rotella T6 for the past 6 years. The oil has only been in there for about 1500 miles.

I bought some iridium plugs to replace the one in there, also iridium. And my next couple of days I'm going to pull her apart and check the valve clearances.

Just getting tired of working on bikes, I just want to RIDE! Lol. I've got a project FZR600 and FZR1000 I'm working on. The 600 is almost done and ready to sell. Just need to get the fuel/air mixture lined out.

Thanks for all your help.


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With that mileage on your engine, the cam chain tensioner (CCT) is known to fail and make a bunch of racket, (generally NOT just a ticking). If it keeps up, do a search, there's a bunch of threads on it. The noise generally eminates from the right side..

Please post what if anything you come up with..

 

[redoliander]

So I'm finally getting around to checking the valves. Its been over due! The cam chain tensioner feels like it ratchets in and out smooth. So checking the valves I found that the intakes are in the middle of speck, but the exhausts are WAY tight.



Speck .13-.20 .23-.30

Intake Exhaust

V1 V2 V1 V2

1 .15 .18 -.04 .13

2 .18 .18 .15 .20

3 .15 .15 .06 .18

4 .15 .15 .15 .23



The -.04 is because that's the smallest feeler I have and it wouldn't fit.

 

[redoliander]

I picked up the new shims, $2 each and we swapped 2 shims cause he was low on them. What's the best way to put them back in? Do I need to put grease or oil on them prior to replacing? Can I check if they are in spec without having to bolt everything down and installing the cct? The only one I'm really worried about is the one that I couldn't get a feeler under. Might just have to put it together, measure, and take back apart if it's not close to spec. We shall see.


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I picked up the new shims, $2 each and we swapped 2 shims cause he was low on them. What's the best way to put them back in? Do I need to put grease or oil on them prior to replacing? Can I check if they are in spec without having to bolt everything down and installing the cct? The only one I'm really worried about is the one that I couldn't get a feeler under. Might just have to put it together, measure, and take back apart if it's not close to spec. We shall see.


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For the one you couldn't get a feeler gauge under, yes, your going to have to assemble and then check. Hopefully, there's no other issues with that one exhaust valve/seat..

The others, IF you measured the old shims, kept track of them, then put in the appropriate thinner ones, the numbers should be good (I'd still re-check them) after assembly.

 

[redoliander]

Getting ready to put everything back in but do I need the Moly oil and grease?


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Getting ready to put everything back in but do I need the Moly oil and grease?


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I'd just coat the moving parts (lobes, bearings, etc) with the engine oil your currently using. Its not like your breaking in a NEW camshaft.

How did the spec's work out for that one valve or do you know yet?

 

[redoliander]

Got it back together and just wondering about timing. I zip tied the sprockets but unsure about the marks. Does this look right?

If I move my head up abit and look down this is what I see.

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[redoliander]

New measurements

1. .28 .25
2. .28 .23
3. .25 .25
4. .28 .30


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I can't tell frrom those pictures.

 

[redoliander]

What would help? I think it's good cause I had zip tied the top sprockets. But I'm not sure. I think if one tooth more it would be off. But I'm just looking at manual and haven't seen other pics of timing. Kicking myself for not taking a pick before.


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

What would help? I think it's good cause I had zip tied the top sprockets. But I'm not sure. I think if one tooth more it would be off. But I'm just looking at manual and haven't seen other pics of timing. Kicking myself for not taking a pick before.


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I sent you a PM.

All the marks obviously should be at TDC and lined up with the chain TENSION on the TOP run and forward run . Any slack / loosness is taken up by the chain tensioner (REAR RUN)...

I would start with the crank at TDC, set the cam chain on the exhaust cam (while its dead on, then pull and set the chain on the intake cam (again, keeping it fairly taught). Any play will be taken up at the rear.

Once its set up, re-check by rotating the engine CLOCKWISE (forward) after the CCT is back installed...


If, and thats a big if, the chain jumped a tooth at the crank while working on it, obviously the cams should be good(if zip tied), just need to re-set the lower marks at the crank...

 

[redoliander]

I didn't get the pm but got the cams to tdc

But it looks like the crank is a bit past the mark.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I didn't get the pm but got the cams to tdc

But it looks like the crank is a bit past the mark.

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I can't enlarge the pic's or add light to see the marks for some reason, sorry.

Then what I suggested above is what happened. The chain moved on the crank while you were working on it.

Keep the cams set the same, (you'll have to loosen up one of the cams for enough freeplay to re-set the chain at the crank), re-set at the crank.

Once again, chain should be taught on the forward and top run when lining up the marks...

I sent another PM as well.

 

[seansi]

So I bought the motion pro sync tool and I'm reading the manual before I get to work on the bike.

It all seems pretty straight forward, I just have one question about the restrictors that go in the end of each vacuum tube. It looks as if they block off the end of the hose completely which connect to the throttle bodies.

Is this the case or do they just allow a minimal amount of air to pass?


Any other heads up before I do this will be appreciated.

 

[FinalImpact]

So I bought the motion pro sync tool and I'm reading the manual before I get to work on the bike.

It all seems pretty straight forward, I just have one question about the restrictors that go in the end of each vacuum tube. It looks as if they block off the end of the hose completely which connect to the throttle bodies.

Is this the case or do they just allow a minimal amount of air to pass?


Any other heads up before I do this will be appreciated.

If you have a vacuum gauge, T into the vaccum sensor at the TB and adjust for 8.6inHg while getting All 4 TB at the same value. Some may need to move #1 screw, esp on a bike with 40,000 miles on it.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/39891-build-your-own-manometer-throttle-body-sync-5.html See post 163...

Also, place the reducers as far away from the gauge as possible to reduce vucuum pulses.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

So I bought the motion pro sync tool and I'm reading the manual before I get to work on the bike.

It all seems pretty straight forward, I just have one question about the restrictors that go in the end of each vacuum tube. It looks as if they block off the end of the hose completely which connect to the throttle bodies.

Is this the case or do they just allow a minimal amount of air to pass?


Any other heads up before I do this will be appreciated.

They (as long as they are real vacuum restrictors) will not block off all air. They are supposed to decrease flow rates so subtle variations don't cause your meter to go crazy.